| ||||
|
New User? Register - Forgot Password | ||||||
| Register | Garage | Photo Gallery | FAQ | Members List | vBClassified | Googlemap ME | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Auto Escrow | Auto Loans |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hey guys. Recently I've noticed a sound coming from the drive belt. At first I thought my belt was going bad, but it wasn't that ( it was changed two months ago). Then I thought it was the tensioner pulley...so I replaced it with a new one...still had that noise (FYI, the noise sounds exactly like a loose belt). The ac/compressor is brand new...it's not that. So I'm pretty much down to the alternator or the power steering pump. My feeling is that it's not the alternator, but I will have it checked out. My question is this...if it is a bad PS pump...wouldn't I notice it while driving (ie: turning/steering the car)??? Could it be a bearing inside the pump? Any thoughts about how much it would be to have it rebuilt?
Also, while removing the alternator, I snapped off the plastic clasp on the wire that connects to it! As I'm sure most of you have experienced this...it's quite annoying. The plastic is so brittle. I ordered a new wire/clasp from rock auto however...where does this wire lead to? I tried following it along the fuel rail but stopped as it became more cumbersome when it started to merge with larger and larger bundles of wire. When I get the new wire, should I just splice the old wire and connect the new wire/electrical connector to it??? Please...Anyone...HELP ME!!! Thanks, Mike Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App |
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
I would lay odds on the bearing noise coming from the alternator. The new wire/connector I would suggest you remove the wire(s) from the connector and only change the connector and leave your wire(s) uncut and original.
|
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
take the belt off and start it and see if it makes noise. if it does it's not the alt or ps pump because they're not spinning.
Some connectors the contacts cant push out the back may have to change the whole connector.
__________________
95 RM wagon 96 Caprice B4U 94 Caprice B4U 2000 Dodge Caravan http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rdi8EkTGztY |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
ALL connectors can be removed from the wiring, you just need the proper removal tool to do so.
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Any quality starter/alternator rebuilding service has those pig-tails. They're common as dirt,and relatively inexpensive. Support your local businesses while they still exist.
|
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
There's some connectors that you have to put the wire through first, crimp, then pull the contact into the housing by pulling the wire. Cant remember which one.
__________________
95 RM wagon 96 Caprice B4U 94 Caprice B4U 2000 Dodge Caravan http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rdi8EkTGztY |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Pull to seat
Normally has a "." in the series Like, a normal metripac 1.5 mm terminal is 150 series http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=216 a pull to seat 1.5 mm terminal is 150.2 series http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=214 The normal terminal has no seal for inside use and a crimed on seal for outside with retainer. One individual seal per wire and then the secondary lock http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=302 The pull to seat has a seal visible in the rear that all the wires go through http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=208
__________________
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The First LS7 T56 6 Speed Wagon Katech cam , 550 rwhp Drag strip pics and video My Wagon My W-31 Cutlass |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks, to all of you! I love this forum! It's amazing how you guys take the time to help others! It really is like another family on here. Merry Christmas to you all and happy new year! I'll update u guys and let you know how I made out. Thanks again
Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App |
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
I second just swapping the alternator connector body.
Its not a pull to seat, so you dont have to worry about that.
__________________
1996 9c1 L99, now w/ LT1. 208k and counting. 1996 SS BBB |
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
Update.
I found the wire connectors I needed from PEP BOYS! I ordered the new housing (plastic connector for the alt) from rock auto. So this problem is solved. NOW...as for this noise...I pulled the power steering pump out. I would like to get it tested before I have it rebuilt or replaced. Does anyone know where I can take this to be tested? I live in Long Island, NY. If it is a bad pump...should i have it rebuilt or order a remanufactured one off of rock auto? I really hope this noise goes away after I put everything back together. The funny thing is...I never had a problem that would indicate it was the Power Steering Pump. It didn't struggle to turn...never made those typical noises that would lead you to believe it was the pump. BUT its the only thing left on the drive belt that hasn't been replaced with a new part. And the noise sounded like it was coming from that area (noise sounds exactly like a loose belt). BTW...I had the alt tested...it was fine. AC/Clutch Compressor...brand new and noise is NOT coming from it. The tensioner pulley is brand new (I thought it was this at first because i had a new belt and it made that "loose belt noise") Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions. thanks again guys. |
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|