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Old 12-24-2012, 04:13 PM
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Default Can't reset 'change oil' light???

Please don't poke too much fun!

My 'Change Oil' light on the dash hasn't come on since I swapped in the T56 back in April, after putting probably 7k on the odometer and 3 oil changes. I'm not sure if it has a programmed mileage interval, or what that might be, but I figured it had been so long that the bulb had just burnt out or something. Battery has also been disconnected a few times in that period.

Just the other day the light came on while driving from Bethlehem PA to Chicago IL, and I can't get it to reset with the gas pedal method like I used to. Key on, engine off, pump the gas pedal 3 times, no reset. KOEO, pump 3 times and hold on the 3rd, no reset.

Am I doing something wrong?

The PCM is flashed with a 95 Fbody T56 tune, if that changes anything?

Does disconnecting the battery reset the light?



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Last edited by Chicagoareabmx; 12-24-2012 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:01 PM
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The oil life monitor computer algorithm was developed over the course of many years by several lubrication experts at GM Fuels and Lubes, spearheaded by Doctor Shirley Schwartz who holds the patents (with GM) for the algorithm.

I quote:

"The GM engine oil life monitor counts engine revolutions and accumulates the number for the basis of he oil life calculation. It then adds deterioration factors for operating temperature, start up temperature, soak times, ambient, coolant temperature, etc. There are a LOT of factors that "adjust" or affect the slope of the deterioration but the fundamental deterioration is traced back to the ZDP depletion that is inescapable with engine revolutions. The specific rate of ZDP depletion is readily measurable for any given engine so that is the fundamental item that is first calibrated for the oil life algorithm to tailor it specifically to that engine. You would obviously like to get the oil out of the engine before the ZDP concentration gets so low that it is ineffective at being at the right place at the right time and preventing engine wear so that becomes the long term limit on oil life for that application. The other things that determine oil life such a acid build up, oxidation, petane insuluables such as silicon from dust/dirt, carbon or soot build up from the EGR in blowby, water contamination, fuel contamination, etc. are all modeled by the multipliers or deterioration factors that "adjust" the immediate slope of the line defined by the engine revolution counter as those items can be modeled in other ways and accounted for in the immediate slope of the ZDP depletion line."


Now.......

The F bodies required that you hold the trip reset button for 15 seconds while the key was in the start position.

I dont think removing the battery negative cable for any length of time will reset that light.
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Last edited by CRSSDCM; 12-24-2012 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:24 PM
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Default Bad cluster?

I've got the exact same thing going on with my 92K mile 9C1. The change oil light would reset every time using the conventional method up until the last oil change this past November. It's been on ever since and won't reset. I believe it's a cluster problem since several other things also aren't working. The trip odometer only works below 40 degrees and the temp guage won't work even though the sender and wiring have been replaced.
I was going to swap in a different cluster but don't want to break any of the plastic dash parts in the cold.

Jim
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:49 PM
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TPS sensor bad maybe?
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:52 PM
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[QUOTE=NADACOP;2722043 I believe it's a cluster problem since several other things also aren't working. The trip odometer only works below 40 degrees and the temp guage won't work even though the sender and wiring have been replaced.
I was going to swap in a different cluster but don't want to break any of the plastic dash parts in the cold.

Jim[/QUOTE]

Can't be the cluster. It's just a bulb in the cluster, the PCM controls the light.

+1 on checking TPS.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:34 PM
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Default

Thanks for the replies guys.

If the TPS was that out of whack, wouldn't it cause all kinds of other fairly noticeable driveability issues?

Maybe I can check it tomorrow if it's a little warmer out, or at least sunny.

What should I be looking for and in what positions?
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