Taking the plunge - '95 9C1 Bolt Ons car

[The Lazy Destroyer]

The goal is simple: See how far up the Class 6 (stock cam NA) ladder I can go. Then eventually down the road try my hand at Class 5 (stock cam + adder) on the spray to mix it up a little.

My last decent timeslip was a 13.1 @ 101, on a setup that still had a lot of room for improvement.

Always been impressed by those running 12's on only bolt ons, so figure I'll see what I can do. I still remember how much fun the SSHS4 HOBO class was but was really amazed at the times some of the cars were pulling off. Pat and Stumpy come to mind, I think both were running pretty solid 12's back then.

But the Caprice has been sitting for a while as I worked on other things like my motorcycle addiction, new house, working on the garage, etc. Sadly other than occasionally running at SSHS events it mostly just collected dust. After seeing the 9C1 sitting for so long in the garage I finally decided to get off my ass and get to work.



The last time she was at the track, @ SSHS10:

[schofell84]

I've got a 96 that looks identical to yours. 13.1's give me hope to make a 12'er out of a DD, without opening the motor up. Lets hear what you've got into it, and see some more pics!

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Here's the setup that ran 13.1:


93 octane tune, 1.6 roller rockers, all the small bolt on stuff (tb bypass, LT4 KM, 160° stat etc), intake/headers/2.5" exhaust, Edge 3000 stall and 3.73's, and ran slicks.
Removed some other items like the front swaybar and the passenger and rear seats.
Weighed exactly 4,000 lbs w/ driver on a full tank of gas.

[The Lazy Destroyer]

First step I have to work on a few things that have been bugging me, mostly maintenance stuff. I did my Meziere electric water pump install in a parking lot way back when. I was also pretty young and wired it just enough to "get by". So needless to say it was a pretty hack job.



Apparently I could only afford one wire color at the time The crimp jobs were also really bad and some were not very secure.



So I'm re-wiring the whole thing. The right side relay is my accessories circuit for my misc items in the cabin (manual TCC switch, line lock, etc), that relay will be relocated to inside the cabin.

There's also some other stuff like the sub amp power wire that I don't need anymore so that stuff will go.

Good time to remove the wiper motor, drive arm, and wipers:




Finished product, much cleaner:



The second relay is a warning circuit for the electric water pump. If the fuse blows or the relay fails to pull in, it will signal a warning light/horn in the cabin.
I left a few spots in the bracket for extra relays when I need them in the future.
I also added a Ground post to the left of the fuse box, which also runs to the battery and a body ground.

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Have had a Mike Harris front bumper support for a bit so finally got around to install it:

Before:



During:



After:



The weight difference is huge! A really nice piece.

[Moby Dick]

Get yourself something around your air filter sorta like the RAISSE setup. You're sucking up "hotter" air in the first 100'.

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Originally Posted by Moby Dick

Get yourself something around your air filter sorta like the RAISSE setup. You're sucking up "hotter" air in the first 100'.

I do have a Raiss unit but I took it off so I can get around the engine bay a little bit. I've gotten into the habit of just leaving it off and only putting it on when I drive the car (I drive it that infrequently yes ). That's why there's no support for the radiator up top. I do want to look into finding a way to insulate the Raiss a bit better though

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Last week I pulled the rear bumper support and tank to prepare for the 8-gallon tank that will go in its place:





Support and tank removed:



First time I've pulled the tank just by myself and it wasn't fun! I pumped out as much as I could so there wasn't much in there fortunately.

Pulled the fuel sender/pump so that I can refurbish it using sherlock9c1s' walkthrough and install the Walbro 255. Going with the Racetronix harness for the pump power supply.



My gas gauge has been pretty crappy for a while and I've always suspected it reads a little high, especially because the full reading pegged way past "F" on the gauge.

The internal harness was also showing some signs of wear as the grey wires insulation was looking rough and the plug that goes into the bulkhead shows signs of melting a little.

Did a quick test after refurbishing to see how the gauge responds, turned out pretty well! Ohm readings were 3Ω to ~100Ω. Plugged it into the harness and the empty, middle, and full readings were pretty much spot on the gauge now.

Pulled the TB to clean things up a bit and check the IAC passages:



Though I will probably be going to a 52mm unit if I can find one cheap.

Also cleaned the PCV line and replaced the valve, which was looking pretty nasty. Installed the BF3412DL breather filter along with a 3299 inline filter on the breather assembly.

[Forbes]

Subscribed, more pictures!

[The Lazy Destroyer]

New Harris 8-gal fuel tank:



Size comparison to the stock tank:





Mocking up the straps to fit:



And... in!



The nice thing is that the tank is 15 lbs lighter than the stock tank before you even factor in the weight savings in the fuel load.

Also got the Racetronix harness install finished up.

Once all this was done I introduced fuel in 1-gallon increments so that I could document where on my gas gauge 1, 2, 3, and 4 gallons measured at. This way I can run it down pretty low and at least know physically how much is in there. Checked fuel pressure after that and the Racetronix/Walbro combo does it's job for sure!