Finally putting Hotchkis springs on the fwb

[Eracer]

Doing a minimal rebuild of the fwb front - balljoints basically. At 125k and a family hauler that I like to get on - better safe than dead. Steering was already mooged.

I had this set of Hotchkis springs I bought from one of the forum members wayyyyy back. Did the rear when I got the car with Harper disks, a posi, air delete, bilsteins, 1.5" drop cargo springs and so on.

So it's time to makeover the frontend stance...

Stock vs Hotchkis:


^^ my pic should appear here ^^


QUESTION: Tighter coils go on top right ????

Well, I did google and search ISSF and pretty much found the answer to the question. Tighter coils on top. Just figured I would delight you with some Saturday afternoon pics, FWIW.

So, in googling the keywords (variable rate spring which side up hotchkis) the second link just happened to be :

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...0207sc_bbodyb/



Brought tears to my eyes

QUESTION: And, oh ! The article says the Hotchkis kit contains thicker isolators. Since these are used I didn't get the isolators. I surely don't want my fwb to have some ridiculous rake. Any suggestions on a part # or link ??

QUESTION: Also, I ran monroe SS shocks for at least 30-40k miles. Any personal suggestions on shocks ? I really like Bilsteins, and I imagine the extra rebound damping of the police version shocks helps control the big boat.

As always; thx in advance.

[scot]

No Bilstein will give you the rebound capacity, with adjustability, that the Koni # 8040-1087 and 1088 will. I use them on a 7200 pound Fleetwood Limo.

[Mr pogo]

I would recommend the sports bilsteins (or whatever the stiff version is) over the monroe ss for the front, better rebound damping.

I also recommend the gm blue front isolators, part number should be in the sticky and rock auto sells them.

[Eracer]

ok, will have a look at the sticky. Yep, sport Bilsteins to handle the higher spring rate of the hotchkis'.
EDIT #2: I misunderstood scot. You're heapin' praise on them Konis, I'll have look, but I'm budget conscious.

EDIT: found the blue spring isolator thread thanks to Bill Harper

GMPD listing
GM PART # 15737908
GM LIST: $9.89
OUR PRICE: $5.86
DESCRIPTION: INSULATOR

[coldsteelmike]

Though using the stocks wont hurt a thing, the isolators that come with the kit are preferable. They will not cause you to have a rake. They will however, help the spring maintain its alignment in the perch and add cushion for vibration, thus decreasing harshness. Remember, it was engineered as a system.

-Mike

[Eracer]

hrmmm. good point mike. I'll have to see if hotchkis can hook me up with their app specific isolators.

[Mr pogo]

Originally Posted by coldsteelmike

Though using the stocks wont hurt a thing, the isolators that come with the kit are preferable. They will not cause you to have a rake. They will however, help the spring maintain its alignment in the perch and add cushion for vibration, thus decreasing harshness. Remember, it was engineered as a system.

-Mike

pish, hotchkis always have a rake.
I think the blue gm ones will hold up better and less likely to squeak.

[Eracer]

Decisions... decisions
Koni 8040 1087 $98 at ajusa
or
Bilstein B46-1104 $85 at allshocks

I sure would like to try out the Konis on the back of the fwb, given scot's invaluable experience with em, but I already have bilsteins back there. And I'm focusing on the front right now.

So, given the Hotchkis spring up front and a pretty big sway bar. I forget which one honestly, but it's quite fat. I'm leaning towards the Konis.

[scot]

If you go with the Koni in front, compared to the Bilstein, even left at the factory adjustment (full soft) they will noticeably reduce the front end lift on acceleration and ride comfortably (soft compression setting) while the higher rebound rates will give flatter cornering. As you adjust the Koni toward full hard rebound, 2 1/2 turns clockwise with the shock fully compressed, the ride degrades very slowly until the last 1/2 turn. At the full hard point the shock becomes almost impossible to extend and the ride suffers greatly, but that's only the last 1/4 of a turn. On the front of a Fleetwood sedan I'd initially install them cranked up 1/4 to 1/2 turn and readjust as needed. After the first ten times of taking them out to adjust them you'll be indifferent to the effort and pleased with the fine tuning potential.

[Eracer]

You're making it sound fun, scot Yeah, I'll probably go for the Konis. The Fleetwood handles really nice as is. Even with tired monroe SSes and stock springs.... should be fun as f... with the konis and hotchkis dialed-in.

EDIT: DONE ! $180.12 from ajusa, free shipping. sha-wing !!!

Took out an upper BJ by cutting the rivets with an angle grinder this morning, what a pain in the ass. And I scratched up the control arm a little, heh, not like it's a beauty piece anyway.. I noticed that hammering the chit out of the area where the rivets were, helped loosen em up and identify where to punch em out manually, I don''t have an air hammer/chisel.

The lower BJ wasn't scary-bad after all. Well, the grease nipple shoulder was flush or just below the limit. Moveable by hand. So, gladly replacing em with Moog units.

Went with the blue isolators after all. $6.54 ea with $13 shipping. GMpartsDirect

Somewhat surprised that my control arm bushings are in nice shape after 125k (at least the driver side). Trying to keep a tight budget on this job, otherwise I'd press it all out with a big yeehaw and smile.