4 NEW auto zone WP's and weep still leaks ...WTF

[Tim96ss]

I live in a part of Cali that about 2 minutes from Mexico... When I lived on the East coast my water pump swap would of been a 1 time thing...but I have had to change the water pumps I got here 4 times already in the past 6 months...
First my belt would squeak and power steering would try to go out but I would fix the problem..well that's what thought... And it's back again... Any ideas will help... I have a 96 impala .. Nothing modified... With 125,000 miles...

[Mr pogo]

if its not been done I would pull the knock sensors and flush the cooling system and engine with water.

[DougDePew]

You said Auto Zone. IMO, you answered your own question.

[BigB9000]

Originally Posted by DougDePew

You said Auto Zone. IMO, you answered your own question.

Im gonna call BS on this. Ive replace 4 WP on the 4 different B-Bodys I have owned, all from Auto Zone. 2 of the cars I sold with working pumps, and the other 2 I still own without problems.

[DougDePew]

Originally Posted by BigB9000

Im gonna call BS on this. Ive replace 4 WP on the 4 different B-Bodys I have owned, all from Auto Zone. 2 of the cars I sold with working pumps, and the other 2 I still own without problems.

And you're more than welcome to do so. The quality of overall rebuilders, especially Cardone who is one of the largest, has fallen dramatically over the past few years. As you can deduce, the cheaper it's sold for (ala Auto Zone being one of the cheapest), the lesser quality the rebuild is.

To each his own.

[The Fooser Guy]

Originally Posted by DougDePew

And you're more than welcome to do so. The quality of overall rebuilders, especially Cardone who is one of the largest, has fallen dramatically over the past few years. As you can deduce, the cheaper it's sold for (ala Auto Zone being one of the cheapest), the lesser quality the rebuild is.

To each his own.

+1 (or more)

We learned (the hard way, natch) that you don't even want to leave the store with a Cardone WP until you take it out of the box (at the counter), grab the tubes for the heater core hoses and try to wiggle them (they should NOT move - D'oh!). 4 out of 4 (including the one we had just installed, and removed to return - pissed) had 'removable' tubes. Quality ain't job one with them.

From what I can determine, the seal on the rear of the WP is the same part as the WP seal on the face of the timing cover. Now, if we can clever up a way to replace said seal....

$0.02
.

[cletus284]

When you R&R the pump, did you replace the o-rings on the WP drive and driven shaft? If the coupler seizes on the shaft, it shortens the live of the WP bearing and seal. Its also a good idea to fill the coupler with wheel bearing grease to prevent rust.

[Goldmaster]

The cheap $50 rebuilt pumps are junk IMO. I worked at AZ and saw how many would come back. Now the new Duralast pumps have been pretty good to me. Those run about $100 or so. But they are new, not rebuilt.

[1slow96]

If you like AutoZone,then shop there. I've had more problem with them,and their product than all the other places combined. If you're tired of leaking water pumps,and they all will eventually. Then go electric. I've never been sorry. If I have to swap one out,it only takes 5 min.

[infomanSS]

I highly recommend converting to electric.

Keep your water pump housing, gut it, tap in a freeze plug in the back, bolt in pump in the front, add wiring, done.

Here's a list of ideas, notice how some come with the freeze plug and wiring...

http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...mps-electrical