Extended Wheel Studs?

[ekm1190]

Hey guys I've been talking with 94MI9C1 about some extended wheel studs and he thought these Moser studs might work, can anyone confirm?

LINK: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-8255/overview/

I'm purchasing either 3/8" or 1/2" hub centric wheel spacers so i need longer studs in order to properly fit the lug nuts.

If anyone knows of any better options please let me know.


-Evan

[PurpleSStripes]

Those will work just fine.

FWIW, I always use ARP part #100-7708, also available at Summit Racing.

When you install on the front rotors you will notice that the ABS tone ring gets in the way of the new studs dropping into to place. Instead of trying to removing the ABS tone rings, use a bench grinder to make a small notch on the side of the new studs head. A small notch is all you need to get enough clearance.

When you install on the rear axles, you will need to remove the rear differential cover, pull the C-clip and slide the axle out an inch or two to get enough clearance.

[ekm1190]

thank you for the info, ARP defiinitely has a great reputation. I'm assuming the ones you listed are extended far enough for the max of 1/2" extension? Just double checking before I go ordering any. Also, i've taken the rear diff cover off and changed the gasket before so that's no issue, but i've never dabbled in the actual axle shafts area. Any advice/pics/instructions you can give? I'm not sure where this C-clip is you're referring to.

[Navy Lifer]

This should get you through it

and some pix would help....

How to remove a C-clip rear axle

[ekm1190]

So from what i'm seeing is I almost have to disassemble half of the rear diff before I can even get to the c-clips to pull the axle shafts out? The scariest part about this, to me, would be re-installing the spider gears, because of the one in the back. Although the spider gears can only go in a certain place thanks to the spider gear shaft...

Would it be a good idea at this point to wait and install new gears (3.73 planned) when I do this? I don't want to make it more complicated than it should be, but i'll have a lot of it already removed (judging from this video)

1965 Chevelle Blog #4: C-Clip Axle Removal V8TV - YouTube

1965 Chevelle Blog #4: C-Clip Axle Removal V8TV - YouTube

[1slow96]

The only part that needs to come out is the cross-pin. This allows the axles to slide inward enough to remove the clips with a magnet,or needle-nose. Checking for wear/damage in the axle bearing area would be prudent also.

[PurpleSStripes]

I assume you have a LSD? Take a look at the ehow video in the links Bill posted. This shows the procedure on car with a posi rear end.

Garry

[1slow96]

By the way,ARP also offers wheel studs for our cars in 3.5" length. As well as the 2.5",stock is 1.5". I use/recommend the 2.5",and run 1/2" spacers in the rear currently. If I had it to do over I'd get the 3.5" in the rear,but was worried about clearing the center caps. They wouldn't have even come close.

[sonuvah]

I don't understand why the wheel adapters are not considered here. The studs and spacers can be customized to your desired specs. I'm running them now without issue. Would be a lot less work than r/r studs.

https://www.motorsport-tech.com

[ekm1190]

They were definitely considered. However, this car is, for lack of a better word, abused. Drag strip, auto x, and road course. With an adaptor only 10-12 mm thick, there's no way I'd trust them to hold up under all that.