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  #11  
Old 05-30-2013, 07:38 PM
Jeff Green Jeff Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuillaumeC View Post
They don't ask you to turn it off when water drips on the track?
I built a water tank that fits in the space behind the passenger side wheel well. Attached a hose from the 90 degree elbow and run it to the tank. The tank has a valve in the bottom of it so I just drain it after each pass.

And the track guys at the starting line never know I have the AC on because it's not leaking on their track. And if your on the street then you just leave the valve open on the tank.
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Last edited by Jeff Green; 05-30-2013 at 07:45 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-31-2013, 12:23 AM
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on all my recent LT1 tunes I shut off the AC clutch at 50-60% Throttle
then when you back out of the throttle it kick back in all on it's own

stock is 95%

on LS1/2/3/6/7 ect you get more logic than just TPS on off:
RPM Disable
RPM ReEnable
TPS Disable
TPS ReEnable
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  #13  
Old 05-31-2013, 12:44 AM
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if the AC clutch is on and stays on as the Engine spins up it will be fine
..as long as the belt stay on track...

But..
having the clutch apply at high RPM can immediate lead to compressor or clutch death

the clutch basically drops on to the spinning pulley from zero RPM!!!

a 6K RPM Delta clutch drop is killer for just about any kind of consumer style clutch drive line or otherwise
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67' El Camino - Rosie - 7.9 @ 86.5 1.77 60' on a street tire NA

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  #14  
Old 05-31-2013, 08:55 AM
Jeff Green Jeff Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProTools4 View Post
if the AC clutch is on and stays on as the Engine spins up it will be fine
..as long as the belt stay on track...

But..
having the clutch apply at high RPM can immediate lead to compressor or clutch death

the clutch basically drops on to the spinning pulley from zero RPM!!!

a 6K RPM Delta clutch drop is killer for just about any kind of consumer style clutch drive line or otherwise
You are dead on!! The last part I have in my setup to make this work is the clutch wire runs to a relay that is controlled by an RPM window. I have it set so it will kick out the clutch at 3000 RPM's and above. It's needed because when I let off the gas at the end of a pass the engine is still spinning close to 7000 RPM's and you don't want the clutch to go live spinning that hard. For just driving around the car never see's anything over 3k so the AC stays on.

And with the TPS tables it cuts the clutch out as soon as I leave the line because of the 100% reading.

So here is how I see it. Removing your AC will not even get you a tenth of a second at the track. So is not have AC worth that to you? And a setup like this is totally automatic, you don't have to do anything so you can't screw it up. The only mistake you can make is forgetting to drain the tank after each pass or forgetting to leave the tank open when you're just driving it on the street.

Just remember, if you're runnning against me at the track, I'm in AC the whole time
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  #15  
Old 05-31-2013, 09:26 AM
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Wink or...

... 'just' drop this between the frame rails (you may have to move them over a bit) and you won't have room for A/C - so it renders the point moot.





(sorry, it was just too good a discussion up to this point.)

.
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  #16  
Old 05-31-2013, 11:59 AM
Jeff Green Jeff Green is offline
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Why not just hang a window AC unit from a house in one of the back windows and power it with a a/c converter

Somewhere I have a picture of an old beater that someone did that.
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2013, 12:58 PM
KW Baraka KW Baraka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Green View Post
Why not just hang a window AC unit from a house in one of the back windows and power it with a a/c converter

Somewhere I have a picture of an old beater that someone did that.
.....Yeah; I've seen a picture like that.....may be the same picture. I LOL'ed real good ......

KW
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  #18  
Old 05-31-2013, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProTools4 View Post
on all my recent LT1 tunes I shut off the AC clutch at 50-60% Throttle
then when you back out of the throttle it kick back in all on it's own

stock is 95%

on LS1/2/3/6/7 ect you get more logic than just TPS on off:
RPM Disable
RPM ReEnable
TPS Disable
TPS ReEnable
Just one thing to watch for, if the compressor is not 'off' long enough, it's a hard hit on the restart. Much like house ac's now that typical 3 minute timer. It ensures all the liquid refrigerant has evaporated. Don't know if the ecu has a built in delay for the restart. I don't recall seeing such in the definition file.
It may warrant having it high enough so it doesn't get constantly hammered by restarts.
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  #19  
Old 05-31-2013, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91ss View Post
Just one thing to watch for, if the compressor is not 'off' long enough, it's a hard hit on the restart. Much like house ac's now that typical 3 minute timer. It ensures all the liquid refrigerant has evaporated. Don't know if the ecu has a built in delay for the restart. I don't recall seeing such in the definition file.
It may warrant having it high enough so it doesn't get constantly hammered by restarts.
When the system is properly charged and it is in good health, there should be no liquid refridgerant at the compressor at all. It should only be a liquid as it leaves the condensor on its way to the orafice tube and then again in the accumulator. Cycling a clutch too often, does wear out the clutch itself though.

Chris
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  #20  
Old 05-31-2013, 10:49 PM
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Not saying liquid at the compressor but in the condenser. Pressure will rise rapidly as the 'empty' space in front of it can be greatly reduced. It's a spike compared to normal running state.
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