Nitrous for Newbies

By: George Debski

Here is some Nitrous advice for new users and an explanation of my set-up:

1) Do it yourself! Don't trust anyone else to take as much care as you will.

2) Make sure your fuel system is up to par. Don't rely on any stock fuel pump. Either add a bigger in-tank pump or big in-line, but not both.

3) Install a fuel pressure safety switch.

4) Install an rpm window switch.

5) Install a WOT switch

6) Either retard timing or use race fuel.

7) NEVER hit it manually. Let the window switch and WOT switch do it for you.

8) Don't use it below 3000rpm.

9) Make sure you have colder plugs with copper electrodes.

10) Take ALL your plugs out every once in a while and check them.

11) Get a good bottle heater and never use propane torches.

12) Make sure everything is wired through the ignition circuit.

13) Tune your motor for best results BEFORE using N2O.

14) Get a good capacitative discharge ignition with a soft rev limiter. DO NOT EVER rely on the stock limiter which cuts the fuel off.

15) Make sure you have a good N2O filter.

16) Start with a small shot when you're testing.

17) Test your system often. On a wet system, a completely simple way is to hit the juice while the bottle's closed. You should dump a load of fuel in, and the engine should bog. If it doesn't - that fuel solenoid isn't working - bad news! That's not a complete test, but it tests some critical pieces of your system.

If you do all of the above, the odds are pretty good your system and your motor will last a long time

Here is the set-up I'm using now:

  • 2 NX Shark nozzles.
  • My retard box is the 3-stage Crane timing box. It has little adjustable wheels in 1 deg increments up to 15deg per stage.

The way my N2O setup works:

1) Fuel pump must be running to get power to the N2O system and bottle heater.

2) First I arm it. This also opens the bottle. That's all I have to do to start it off.

3) At that time power goes to the Throttle switch but nothing occurs yet.

4) When I go to WOT, power goes to the delay timer.

5) When the delay shuts off, power is applied to the RPM box.

6) At 3000rpm stage1 and 1deg retard goes on, at 3800rpm stage 2 and 3 more deg retard goes on (only if the 2nd stage switch is on)

7) Over 5800rpm, N2O is off and an extra 4deg retard is added.(shifts at 6000)

If fuel pressure goes down, N2O shuts off. If throttle is moved, N2O shuts off and delay box is rearmed. When I'm done with the run, I hit the disarming switch, which shuts the system and closes the bottle. If the fuel pump shuts down, the N2O shuts off. It's really foolproof, and I can't screw it up, even if I tried!!!!

I can adjust each stage ON rpm with little wheels on the Crane 3-stage RPM box, with adjustments every 100rpm. None of those stupid MSD pills.

In addition, I also adjust my air/fuel ratio for the temperature with the MAF Translator (I'm still learning that one )

There are also 8 indicator lights in the instrument panel for the following:

  • System on
  • Stage 1 armed
  • Stage 2 armed
  • Stage 1 on
  • Stage 2 on
  • Heater on
  • Bottle closed
  • Line Loc on

Additionally, there are 2 timers in 0.1sec increments for bottle usage for each stage and the delay adjustment knob (0.05 to 10sec). Of course, there is also the purge switch and Line-Loc switch, 2 system on switches, heater switch and stage1/stage2 switch all in the center console.

Hope this information will help some of you guys make a proper and safe set-up.

Enjoy, and kick some F-Body ass!