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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 1.5" Rear Bar from a member a while back. He didn't have much detail on this bar but thought it would fit. The bar was Purple and I painted it black. I think it was an Intrax bar since it was Purple.

Anyway, I have a Impala rear in my Caprice with UMI Control arms. The bar lines up with the C/A sway bar holes, but compared to the stock bar, this thing sits really Low. The bottom of the bar is 3" below the bottom of the differential. Does anyone else have one of these bars on their car and is it normal for it to sit so close to the ground?

For a street car, is this a good bar to keep or should I put the stocker back on?

I do plan on installing a Herb Adams front bar with the Tie rod (not Heim) ends as well. Here is a pic of what the bar looks like on the car now. what do you think?
 

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It is really hard to tell from your picture. Are those jack stands on the axle or frame? Try another picture with the car off the jack stands sitting on the ground.

That style bar does sit a little low but not as low as it looks in that picture. It will look lower if the weight is off the axle. See my sig pic.. I was running this type bar when it was taken and you can see it on the unweighted side.

For a street car with stock springs and a nice sway bar up front I liked the combo.

Will you be running the stock front bar for now? I wouldn't run this rear bar alone without a bar at all on the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It is really hard to tell from your picture. Are those jack stands on the axle or frame? Try another picture with the car off the jack stands sitting on the ground.

That style bar does sit a little low but not as low as it looks in that picture. It will look lower if the weight is off the axle. See my sig pic.. I was running this type bar when it was taken and you can see it on the unweighted side.

For a street car with stock springs and a nice sway bar up front I liked the combo.

Will you be running the stock front bar for now? I wouldn't run this rear bar alone without a bar at all on the front.

Yes, it is on jackstands under the Frame with the axle hanging down so I could lay under the car to mount the bar. Sorry for the small picture (thumbnail) but I have not figured out how to post a picture in the thread like other members. If you have some quick instructions on how to post pictures shoot me a PM. I can only post JPG's or BMP's and it always makes me shrink them down to a certain size before I can upload them.

I left it up on the stands because I'm going replace the 3/8" bolts with some M10 bolts and will hit the Fastenal Store tonight. Even with the axle hanging down though, the bar moves with the axle and will always be 3" below the diff. I'll get a picture with it on the ground tonight and post it here to see what you think. I have a 16" wheel on the car now and it looks to be lined up with the bottom of the rim. I also measured the distance from the middle mounting hole to where the bar starts to bend and it's about the same on the stocker and this straight bar. They both start to bend about 9" away from the mount hole so I think the basic dimensions are the same, it may just look lower since this bar is straight across.

I currently have the F-Body (32mm) bar on the front with Poly busings and end links. I plan on running the Herb Adams bar with Tierod ends up front with either this 1.5" rear bar or may go back to the stock rear bar if I think this big bar sits to close to the ground. I also have Eibach Pro lowering springs along with Bilstein shocks on my 95 Caprice.
 

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It's been a looooong while since I have messed with my HA rear bar, but if I recall correctly, there were 2 ways to mount it. 1 way for OEM trailing arms, and another for aftermarket arms. It was all a matter of flipping the bar over depending on trailing arm application. I think it had to do with where the round bar stock was pressed flat for the mounting surface, in that it was offset to one side of center (top to bottom).

Let's see if this works.... (side view of mounting area):

..................................____________
.____________________/
|________________________________

For the life of me, I cannot remember which was which, but I do know that one orientation hung lower than the other. That may or may not be the case here. Either way, just be mindful of roadkill and manhole covers...
 

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It's been a looooong while since I have messed with my HA rear bar
For the life of me, I cannot remember which was which, but I do know that one orientation hung lower than the other. That may or may not be the case here. Either way, just be mindful of roadkill and manhole covers...
Yes, that does sound familiar too since it's been so long. I do know that I ended up with a stack of washers under the rear bolts and maybe one or two under the front bolts. This is for the stock arms. I probably found the bar upside down was better clearance, but it hit the back of the control arm basically trying to spread it out unless i used the washers to keep is spaced.
 

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on my UMI arms I mounted the flat section of the bar to the LCA's and this should be how it is done. The picture is quite deceiving though, so you have any other pictures that you have taken with the weight of the car on the rearend?


Mike
 

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I left it up on the stands because I'm going replace the 3/8" bolts with some M10 bolts and will hit the Fastenal Store tonight. Even with the axle hanging down though, the bar moves with the axle and will always be 3" below the diff.
Well the bar actually moves with the angle of the lower control arms and that changes quite a bit when you put the cars weight on the axle. I would like to see the same picture with the jack stands moved to support the axle. But even then if it is anything like mine it will still look low, but that said I never had issues with it. And like others have said there is sometimes a little to be gained with that bar style by flipping it over depending on how the mating surfaces are finished. Placing spacing washers between the bar and the front attach point can also raise up the rear of the bar if you feel the need and have the clearances required.

currently have the F-Body (32mm) bar on the front with Poly busings and end links. I plan on running the Herb Adams bar with Tierod ends up front with either this 1.5" rear bar or may go back to the stock rear bar if I think this big bar sits to close to the ground. I also have Eibach Pro lowering springs along with Bilstein shocks on my 95 Caprice.
I have found his rear bar to work well with the F-body style bar. I think you will be pleased with the results on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
JonRobbinSS - You were right!

It didn't dawn on me that the angle of the C/A would change causing the bar to move. I jacked up the rear to ride height and the bar moved up about 1.5" and looks much better. This thing is a BEASST and can only inprove the cornering of the car. I contacted Fastenal and they will get me M10 -1.5 120mm Grade 10.2 bolts for a $1.80 each in a day to replace the 3/8" bolts I am currently using in the UMI C/A's The SAE bolts fit fine but a little loose. With a bar this big I want the bolts to be "just right" and will double-up the flat washers on both sides.

As for the flat side of the bar.....that is how I mounted mine, just like the stock bar. If you flipped it over you would need to use spacers and I don't really see where it would give more clearance. Attached are pics of how the bar looks with the rear jacked up to the suspension. I also took a shot of the bar mount so you can see the difference on the flat side opposed to the round side. Maybe using stock C/A's would let you flip it over but I prefer the bar tight against the C/A's. Thanks to everyone for your input and HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!
 

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how will this bar do with a stock 9c1 bar upfront a global wests springs cut down n i think vogatlands in the back ?? not sure on rear springs as they came with the rear i purchased and there purple so that make me think there ither vogatlands or intrax but there the same
 

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If you are looking for a good bit of inducible oversteer on acceleration (and some people are) I think you would find it with that combination.
With good high rate springs in front you can put less bar in back and allow the front springs to take more of the anti-roll job while allowing the rear axle to articulate a little to keep weight on both tires.
It is a trade off between lessening body roll and keeping both rear tires on the ground. I run higher rate front springs and did a bit of un-scientific autocross testing a couple of years ago spending a practice day swapping the rear bar out in my car running a front helwig bar and the high rate front springs and stock rear springs. I swapped between a heavy 1.5 bar, a Helwig (almost stock bar), and no bar. They all did OK but I ended up leaving the Helwig on the car and am still happy with the choice.
 

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well my front springs are global wests cut down witch i think puts me around the 750#
 

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rmason, glad you fixed your mount. That pic showed WAYYY lower fit than the HA on my Impala SS.

I did a little unscientific experiments too when setting up what I wanted for my driver FLT. I wanted nothing near the lockdown ride of the HA rear as on my SS, so I've recounted a couple times in threads how I settled on two (2) SS bars mounted together, - combined with an SS front (yes just a single in front cwm1).

Definitely oversteer, but it remains real flat and I sure prefer what I have to plowing. I've read where a hotchkis bars are not as rough as HA/HO with F front.
 
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