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Wanting to lower my SS but still keep stock wheels and size. I see drop coils but the rears drop 1" while the fronts drop more. Being stock these cars are already higher in the rear even with a full tank of gas. I thought about buying separate instead of all four set, 1" front and 2" rear but would the 2" be too low and will the ride feel funky maybe because of different tensions? Whats your opinions and show me some lowered cars with 1-1.5 drop.
 

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I do not have any pics, but thinking about it, you could cut a 1/4 coil from the front, and put the 2 inch drops on the rear. A 2 inch drop on the rear will usually net you about 1 inch on an Impala, because they are about 1 inch lower than the stock springs to begin with. A 1/4 coil cut from the front will give you about a 1/2 inch drop, but you would have to experiment with it to be sure of the amount. Cut a little at a time until you are happy with the stance. Measure every change, so you know what you did.
 

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"I`m worried about the tension of having two different brand springs."
As you should.
I got an extensive write up about bounce frequency and suspension design along with my new car (96 Caprice). Part of the explaination of my cars road racing capacity. Short version is cutting springs always creates mismatched bounce frequency and a clumsier car, that no other suspension component can mitigate.
 

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Unless you are going to do a lot of spirited cornering, you will probably not notice the different springs front to rear. With good shocks and sway bars, normal driving will not have any unusual events. You may even end up with a combination that actually works properly in high stress situations. Many people put drop spindles on the front, and drop springs in the rear without changing the front springs. If anything would upset the car, that would, and the cars still drive normally, and do not seem to have any strange characteristics. I believe the argument for "tuned" springs is only valid in racing conditions, and that could mean having custom made springs of far greater load handling capabilities than the springs on a comfy street car. There are a lot of other aspects of the suspension geometry that affect the handling of the car when lowering it as well.

Another small adjustment that you can consider is the length of the sway bar end links when lowering the car. The sway bar should be level at the link when the car is sitting on the ground. If it is at an angle (end link too long), it will not be as affective and could destroy the bushings, or bend the end link.
 

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... Short version is cutting springs always creates mismatched bounce frequency and a clumsier car, that no other suspension component can mitigate.
After much experimenting with F bodies, here is a simply, undeniable proof of the above. Take out all four shocks and bounce the vehicle. ANY car with cut springs or mismatched BF springs, will obviously oscillate at different rates front to back. Nothing will mitigate this clumsiness, not shocks, sway bars, bushings or anything else. You want to optimize the handling, braking and ride, you do what all spring set manufacturers do, match the BF. You want to go to the prom with the fat chick, enjoy.
 

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Wanting to lower my SS but still keep stock wheels and size. I see drop coils but the rears drop 1" while the fronts drop more. Being stock these cars are already higher in the rear even with a full tank of gas. I thought about buying separate instead of all four set, 1" front and 2" rear but would the 2" be too low and will the ride feel funky maybe because of different tensions? Whats your opinions and show me some lowered cars with 1-1.5 drop.
the spring cut is what should be done using 4 new springs. use a cutoff wheel and gradually cut off till your slightly above what you want. front first.. then the rear.

unless your really sloppy on measuring this is a better way than buying lowering springs. 1 inch with stock wheels will work...

also you will have to align the front end with a drop. toe will too little..

after about 5K miles it will drop a little more...
 

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Working up my post count. Eibach Pro-Kit # 3837.140 is $309.97 with free shipping from Summit. Or buy new springs (Moog? no new OEM ImpalaSS springs available) and cut them and have different BF F+R and different spring rates side to side. Remember the dancing hippo's in Fantasia?
 

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the spring cut is what should be done using 4 new springs. use a cutoff wheel and gradually cut off till your slightly above what you want. front first.. then the rear.

unless your really sloppy on measuring this is a better way than buying lowering springs. 1 inch with stock wheels will work...

also you will have to align the front end with a drop. toe will too little..

after about 5K miles it will drop a little more...
The rear springs can not be cut.

You can compensate for the negative camber by removing 0.030 inches of shim from each stack for every 1/2 inch of drop. This is a tested and true formula.

The toe will not change when you put drop springs in a car. The inner tierod ends are in line with the axis of the lower suspension arms, and the outer tierod ends are in line with the centerline of the lower ball joint. they pivot up and down in unison at all points of their travel.
 

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the spring cut is what should be done using 4 new springs. use a cutoff wheel and gradually cut off till your slightly above what you want. front first.. then the rear.......
Oh my.......REALLY????

Let me get my glasses 'cause I know I'm readin' this wrong!!!

KW
 

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This my be very outdated, but I outfitted Hotchkis lowering springs and bilsteins all around, and my drop is awesome. No pics, and the car still has a slight rake, but the handling is much improved from stock, corners like its on rails. On that note, if you want to buy some used OEM springs to experiment with, with around 50k miles, send me a PM, still have the ones I removed.
 

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I've used Hotchkis sets of 4 springs on a couple A body cars and an F body with very good results, though for use with Koni's I prefer Eibach. Post count climbing, soon I'll be able to post a Caprice hood emblem WTB!
 

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This my be very outdated, but I outfitted Hotchkis lowering springs and bilsteins all around, and my drop is awesome.....
No 'WC'.....it's not outdated.

IMO, this is the best route to go insofar as dropping a B-body is concerned. Both from a handling AND cosmetic perspective.

But hell.....that's just me.

KW
 

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One more option is to put the matched drop springs in, and put various spacers under, or on top of the front springs until the stance suits you.
 

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The rear springs can not be cut.

You can compensate for the negative camber by removing 0.030 inches of shim from each stack for every 1/2 inch of drop. This is a tested and true formula.

The toe will not change when you put drop springs in a car. The inner tierod ends are in line with the axis of the lower suspension arms, and the outer tierod ends are in line with the centerline of the lower ball joint. they pivot up and down in unison at all points of their travel.
I was referring to the 9C1 new springs as the one to cut not the impala springs. the 9C1 springs when cut to lower the vehicle an inch or so does make the vehicle handle much better , stiff no bouncing..
 

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I was referring to the 9C1 new springs as the one to cut not the impala springs. the 9C1 springs when cut to lower the vehicle an inch or so does make the vehicle handle much better , stiff no bouncing..
You still can not cut the 9C1 rear springs.
 

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I think a 2" drop all around will be too low considering I want to use my stock wheels. What do you think?
Eibach or Hotchkis will be a drop of ~ 2 inches or more from 9C1 height but only +1" from OEM SS spring height. Stock wheels of 15" or 17" will fit fine with either. I think they are a far better ride/handling/braking choice than cutting any front springs.
 
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