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There are various constant power and ignition switched power sources in the underhood fuse block up by the right side of the firewall.

You can tap off one of the main buss bars in there, add a fuse in an unused position and run the wires out the back in the factory loom and everything will look/function factory like. Not particularly difficult, however can be a bit tedious. Easy is a relative term :)

The power distribution wiring diagram will be helpful for selecting which buss bar/circuit you want to use...







 

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Make sure it is a fused circuit, or put a fuse between the positive cable and any relay or wire.
 

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Why would one even want EWP on a switch?
 

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without judging you choices ,
If you are looking to trigger the small blue wire on the Painless kit .

Some options are



My personal choice is taping into the fan relay feed brown or fuel pump gray wire .

Fan feed is only on during run ,not crank so you have less load during cranking
Fuel pump gray , only only power when the car is actually running .
Pros and cons to both.
Or just do it like 98% of the people and just tap into ign run .
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If you're not using the AIR Pump plug that's an easy place to tap into
Jim
Yes , if he not using the air pump AND he has it programmed not to throw a code.

He would have to ground the brown wire though so the relay would turn on with the ignition.
At that point you dont need any of the painless kit because the old AIR relay , and wiring would do the job.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@95wagon I'd like to go this route. Can you expand some more on using this option. If possible?

Yes , if he not using the air pump AND he has it programmed not to throw a code.

He would have to ground the brown wire though so the relay would turn on with the ignition.
At that point you dont need any of the painless kit because the old AIR relay , and wiring would do the job.
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The 94-95 still " looks" for the resistance of the relay.
This is why you leave the relay in when disabling the AIR pump.
The 96 does more elaborate checks ,this is way you MUST do the PCM even if you leave the relay
When using the AIR relay for a water pump,
If you cut and ground the brown relay trigger wire to make the AIR pump relay turn on and off with the ignition the PCM will no longer see the relay.
If you take care of the relay issue in the PCM and ground the brown wire to the relay it would turn on with ign.
The red wire to the AIR pump could then be used to power the water pump.
 

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Yes , if he not using the air pump AND he has it programmed not to throw a code.

He would have to ground the brown wire though so the relay would turn on with the ignition.
At that point you dont need any of the painless kit because the old AIR relay , and wiring would do the job.
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Yep being he has a 95 LT1 B car he won't need AIR pcm update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Couldn't I just tap into terminal 86 on the fuse block for my 12v switch? And use either the provided harness or this painless electric wp harness I got?

 

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Why do you want a switch on something that needs to run continually?
 

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Like I said Henry ‘06 I suggest purchasing Gary’s EWP harness, it takes all the guess work out, it’s plug and play, and as soon as you turn the ignition switch to the on position water pump run’s, no toggle switch needed. Problem with the toggle switch, is you run the risk of forgetting to turn on the water pump and you can potentially have bigger problems by your car overheating.


 
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