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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1992 caprice classic

I have a troble with #17 fuse. It's burning when ignition key turn to on (one time turn clockwize) but not start a car.

I disconnected:
1. radio
2. left hand twilight sentinel block
3. TCC black conntctor on brake pedal
4. instrument panel dash
5. climate control module with fluid warning cener
6. audio alarm module
7. fuel conector from the rear of the car(fuel tank).


Does not work and shows:
- fuel gauage on instrument panel - cannot see coz its in deep space!
- coolant gauage - more than max

- all lamps on fluid warning cener and instrument panel does not blink and not work when ignition switched/turned to "on"

- speedometr - works.

When ignition is "on" - 17 fuse burn.

Any body can help me as possible?
 

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The #17 fuse is hot in start, bulb check, and run. It uses a pink and black wire. It goes to the diagnostic reserve module, torque converter clutch/cruise release switch, twilight sentinel, audio alarm module, electronic compass, rear defogger relay timer, fluid warning center, low coolant module, instrument cluster, height sensor, and headlight switch illumination lamp. If you unhook all of them, and start plugging them back in one by one, when you get to the erroneous one, it will blow the fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The #17 fuse is hot in start, bulb check, and run. It uses a pink and black wire. It goes to the diagnostic reserve module, torque converter clutch/cruise release switch, twilight sentinel, audio alarm module, electronic compass, rear defogger relay timer, fluid warning center, low coolant module, instrument cluster, height sensor, and headlight switch illumination lamp. If you unhook all of them, and start plugging them back in one by one, when you get to the erroneous one, it will blow the fuse.
Can you show in pictures?
 

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I would have to copy numerous pages from the FSM. All of them have a pink and black wire coming from the fuse block. There are a couple of splices as well. Most of the modules can be found relatively easily. The only one that is obscure is the diagnostic energy reserve module and it is found on the driver's side of the steering column along the top underside of the dash support.
 

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Does it possible to show connectors/components it on pictures?
being this old my guess is a shorted wire. this is not from a component IMO.

the under dash wiring does short out on the sharp machined metal edges.

look for wires that have NO LOOM coverings and wires that have been screwed with by wire hacker. ALARM TECH'S ETC..

on my 96 Impala I had a wire short out on the sharp metal in the driver door..
the had to use a magnifying glass to reveal the short it was so small. I then just taped up all the wiring in the door and I also went through the rest of the vehicle and used the tape/plastic loom to prevent any future wiring shorts..
 

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The wire short sounds like the ticket. You are going to be doing a lot of chasing. Look for burn marks on the metal as well as cuts in the wire wrap/tape.
 

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Where is connectors:
ckt30
c400
c402
C400 is in the trunk driver side. C402 should be the one behind the rear license plate.

check all those driver side connectors because for some reason these get hacked/damaged.. also check that the trunk grounds are solid.

CKT30 not sure will have to open the GM repair manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The main trouble is:
1. remove plastic cover dash panel
2. i do not understand where wire is passing over vehicle.
 

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The purple wire allows the torque converter lockup clutch to disconnect when you apply the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The purple wire allows the torque converter lockup clutch to disconnect when you apply the brake.
Right. This wire was grounded. Where? At this moment can only say that i tested from this connector(later i disconnected upper side of connector, but nothing changed: it still grounded):





 

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Removing the dash to access the wiring harness requires that you remove the face, and pad, as well as the dash support. It is a lengthy process, but not that difficult. The harness is attached to the back of the dash support. There is also a harness along the top of the firewall. There is not a lot of wiring on the passenger's side of the dash. Removing the dash does make it easy to look at all of the wiring. Check your fuse block for any heat distortion, especially the fuse for the HVAC fan. You can pull it and put it all back together in one day.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Removing the dash to access the wiring harness requires that you remove the face, and pad, as well as the dash support. It is a lengthy process, but not that difficult. The harness is attached to the back of the dash support. There is also a harness along the top of the firewall. There is not a lot of wiring on the passenger's side of the dash. Removing the dash does make it easy to look at all of the wiring. Check your fuse block for any heat distortion, especially the fuse for the HVAC fan. You can pull it and put it all back together in one day.
Fred, i exactly found grounded wire. I start diconnect at s262 point every pink-blk wire. Only one wire(pink-blk) TCC to tcc switch. After tcc switch wire starts go to 4L60 as purple.

The s262 point is on left top corner on photo:
 

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Unplug the transmission connector, and check for wire to ground. Check the other wire as well. If both show no ground, it could be the trans switch. Did you have any trouble with the TC lockup?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Unplug the transmission connector, and check for wire to ground. Check the other wire as well. If both show no ground, it could be the trans switch. Did you have any trouble with the TC lockup?
No. But in 2016 summer was trouble: after ~40min driving, caprice stalling the engine on road, when try to more press the gas pedal.
 
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