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Hi my ss suspension is completely done for I wanna replace everything for it an with the best parts possible rn I got 18” rims but plan on putting it back on 22”s I want to get the back done first cuz it’s the worst unless there’s a good kit an I also got very big speakers so imma need something good
 

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Hi my ss suspension is completely done for I wanna replace everything for it an with the best parts possible rn I got 18” rims but plan on putting it back on 22”s I want to get the back done first cuz it’s the worst unless there’s a good kit an I also got very big speakers so imma need something good

Not sure how much I can offer as we have different goals. I run stock 17" wheels and tires, do NOT have a lot of stereo equip in the trunk and like a ride that is low and Handles well. Not looking to do anything with the stock suspension other than improve it.

You have a few options such as air bags or lift kits assuming you need to lift it for larger wheels. But as for suspension parts, I use only A combo of Moog and Delco parts for the wear items. Replaced stock arms with boxed units from UMI along with Eibach springs and Bilstein and Monroe SS shocks. The front is still pretty much stock with the exception of poly bushings, larger bar and 5/8" spindle setup.
 

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You got all of the wear parts for the front, except the spring and shock. What you have does nothing for the rear.

Getting a car to suit your riding/driving wants is an experiment, unless you know someone who has done the same thing and you are happy with their results. Spring rate and shocks are the determining factors. The bushings and other parts are there to control the action of the suspension, not provide the ride quality.

BTW, 95SOLM, make sure you tighten the bushings with the car at ride height, or you will destroy them in short order.
 

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I'm happy to ready that you've selected MOOG as your supplier. The car in my SIG is the second Caprice I've rebuilt the entire front end with MOOG components, and I couldn't be happier with the quality, and life of the components.

BUT I particularly wanted to mention what I found when doing my current ride approximately 2 years ago. After getting everything installed and the front end aligned, I drove the car as usual, and not long after the first ride or two, I heard this 'Clunk' and could even feel this thru either my foot on the gas or brake pedal!

Long story short, the upper ball joint studs were approximately 1/2" longer than necessary. I didn't really think about it at the time when unboxing the parts, and the plastic bag containing the castle nut, cotter pin, and zerk fitting also contained a bunch of flat washers; maybe 6. I thought it strange that they would package so many, but then installed them using just one on the castle nut side.

I can only assume that since those joints can be used on other vehicle applications, that was the reason for the BJ stud design.

I found the problem one day, after I had exhausted other things to check.
I removed the lower arms two times, thoroughly going over everything with a fine tooth comb, and couldn't find the root cause.

Then finally, I had the car on jack stands, and the wheels removed, and noticed that the upper control arms were pulled away from the spindles by that 1/2" I wrote earlier. The cause of the clunk was after the upper arm had pushed the BJ stud thru the spindle fully, and it was under spring pressure, and after exiting my driveway, or going over a speed bump or something, and it was being pushed out of the spindle because of that 1/2" distance that wasn't taken up with the additional flat washers supplied.

This must have been a redesign of the BJs because I didn't have this problem with my 9C1 that I did the front end over in the spring of 2004.

I wasn't wild about the thought of so many flat washers to eliminate the excessive clearance, so I went ahead and bought a set of AC-Delco joints, and haven't had a problem since.

So, keep this in mind when you assemble your front end components. This would also be the time to possible use different zerk fitting to make it easier to grease the components. I think I installed a few 45' or 90' fittings in place of the straight zerks.

Lastly, I also have a set of Airlift bags, with the tubing and hardware to install, if you are interested in having the ability to have additional load carrying capacity if you so please.

I didn't like how the rear drop springs had lowered the car too much for my liking, so I installed the bags. I then decided I'd rather have the rake designed into the suspension, and not have to rely on the air bags, so I bought a set of stock height Impala springs.
 

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Thanks Junior and Fred, good pointers. Hoping to get wrenching on it next weekend. Gotta get it smogged first by cali reqs and while doing the drive cycle for the nth time I get a dang rear 02 code!
 

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I had to put washers under the nut on my lower BJs, but the kit did not come with them. I tightened the nut as far as it would go, and the joint was still loose, and the cotter pin did not engage the nut. I just made sure the washers did not bind on the taper. I think I used 2 on each side. They were Moog parts, so I was surprised with the unusual installation.
 

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I had to put washers under the nut on my lower BJs, but the kit did not come with them. I tightened the nut as far as it would go, and the joint was still loose, and the cotter pin did not engage the nut. I just made sure the washers did not bind on the taper. I think I used 2 on each side. They were Moog parts, so I was surprised with the unusual installation.
Yeah, I wasn't thrilled about that installation (As stated in post #5), even thought it would prob be okay, so that's why I replaced them with AC-Delco joints, and they fit perfectly.
 

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Gotta get it smogged first by cali reqs and while doing the drive cycle for the nth time I get a dang rear 02 code!
Get your pcm customised, that'll get rid of that stupid code.
 
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