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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Is the transmission pan the lowest thing/first to hit?
[/QUOTE]
Actually the header collector sits a bit lower than the transmission pan. The car is on shorter tires: 26” tall front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
For gauges using the LS computer from the donor driver train. I had to have someone enable certain features with HP tuner or equivalent. The LS computer from the doner is an E38 ECM. The E38 ECM was used on several different vehicles throughout 2007-2013, each vehicle type (trucks, cars, corvette) had different features enabled. As the years progressed, things changed up a bit. The E38 ECM is for the gen 4 LS meaning 58x reluctor wheel and the cam sensor is in the front timing cover. The gen 3 LS computers are easier to hook up or if you can afford it, go with Holley terminator X system. I had to use this ECM because I want to use the 6l80e transmission. The E38 ecm does not control the AC function like the older LS ecm’s.

For Tachometer: pin 48 on the X1 connector had to be enabled. Using Hp tuner change “Tach Output” to “crank” you might have to mess around with low high resolution for mine low resolution is at 4 or 5 and High is 14, this is not 100% accurate but it close enough for me. I then relocated another pin that’s not being use to pin 48 slot on the X1 connector then connect the impala tac wire to the newly added pin 48 wire. You would then have to do “tac pull-up for LS” to make it all work. There’s plenty of videos on YouTube and write ups on the LS1 tech site for the Tac Connector wire.

For speedometer: pin 57 on the on the X1 connector had to be enabled. Using Hp tuner change “speed output type” to “vehicle serial”. Again I reused a pin that’s not being used and inserted that pin to the empty pin 57 spot on the x1 connector, then i connected to impala VSS wire. For this one I did not have to do a “pull-up” for the speedometer to work but you might have to. If you do, it’s the same way as the tac pull up method except you’re doing it for the speedometer.

For oil pressure: I reused the stock LT1 oil pressure sensor, I tapped the LS block off plate with 1/8-27 npt tap. Also reused the stock LT1 connector for this too but I bypassed the fuel pump gray wire on this connector.
Fuel Pump: walbro 255 stock drop in upgrade, bypassed the gray wire on the oil pressure sensor, basically removed the sensor from the circuit and reconnect the gray wire, you don’t have delete the oil pressure sensor but I wanted to move the oil pressure sensor to above the oil filter on the LS, this means lengthening 2 wires instead of three. Connect the impala fuel enable wire to the LS fuel enable wire. The fuel level on the instrument cluster is part of the body, no need to mess with it.

For temperature: I used a 3 pin temp sender for 1998 Camaro or firebird ACDELCO 12551708 with connector ACDELCO PT2319. Pin A and B sit next to each other Pin C Is the single pin, Pin C goes to impala temp wire that is the single green wire that used to be on the right side LT1 head.
For volts: I did not connect anything and it’s working.

For Cooling Fans: will have to wire it as the 3 relay system for a 2000 Camaro Ss or equivalent, might repurpose the Air pump relay for the 3rd relay. Currently only one fan kicks on with the ecm and the other is wired to a switch. In the E38 ECM, for mine I had to change it from “PWM” to discrete” so that the computer can turn on the fans instead of a module. Once changed to “discrete” I used another unused Pin and relocated to empty slot on Pin 17 on the X1 connector.

if you had to turn on or enable a function in the E38 ECM, this usually requires you to add a pin to the ECM connector (usually empty) for the function to work. You can find this data on pin outs for different type of vehicles. For Example, the C6 corvette showed that Pin 57 was the VSS signal. LT1 swap have a few pin outs for comparison.

For all other body functions like wipers,washer fluid, ABS, etc, I did not touch them unless It shared a ground or power within the circuit. All body functions functions the same.
 

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Not sure why you would want to do the Camaro 3 relay , series low speed, full power high.
With the two different fan motor wattages in series might be a little weird.
One would think you could run them off the e38 as the wiring is at the PCM for normal high and low .
Did you have to do the "Patch" to be able to get the fan control lower?
I did with the E67
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Not sure why you would want to do the Camaro 3 relay , series low speed, full power high.
With the two different fan motor wattages in series might be a little weird.
One would think you could run them off the e38 as the wiring is at the PCM for normal high and low .
Did you have to do the "Patch" to be able to get the fan control lower?
I did with the E67
Forgot to mentioned I’ll be using 4th Gen F body fans for the low-high functions as when they turn on both fans will kick on to low and then to high if needed.
“Patch” - the tuner switch it from PWM to discrete, at least I think he did, will be going back there to check for a final once over once everything is done. Maybe that’s why the secondary fan never turned on.
 

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" I’ll be using 4th Gen F body fans"
Ah, that would be different 👍
I just used the stock fans on a custom rad.
The dual low speed is a nice feature.
One thing in retrospect I would have done different was battery power to relay coils to make use of cooling functions after shut down, available in the newer ECU programs.
If I was to do it all over I would go with the PWM setup.
The patch is to allow lower temp fan settings than the factory settings allow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
power to relay coils to make use of cooling functions after shut down— maybe a wire them to a thermostatic switch ?
If I was to do it all over I would go with the PWM setup—if I had got it when I bought the drivetrain, I would have wired it in, but relays works just fine.
The patch is to allow lower temp fan settings than the factory settings allow.-my fan turns on at 190 ish, just a litter lower that factory spec
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
On to the drive shaft, ordered from shaft masters in Michigan, length 60.50” width 4”, my axle is already centered and engine pushed all the way back, can probably make 60.25” length driveshaft work too. On cars with the 6L80E, they came with 3 bolt flange yoke, on the trucks with the 6L80e, they came with the regular slip yoke. Since my drivetrain came from 2014 caprice PPV, I had to get a custom driveshaft with the 3 bolt flange yoke.
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Congrats on getting it to fit so easily (at least from here it looked easy :), but I know it's a lot of work!).

Is the transmission pan the lowest thing/first to hit?
If you could post some pics of the trans installed when you get a chance, it would be really helpful! maybe if you can take a quick measurement of the trans/driveline angle as well. did you have to angle the trans downwards too far to clear the tunnel?

I'm shocked, I didn't think fitting one of these would be possible using KDS mounts without really raising/widening the tunnel a great deal or having the trans hang insanely low. This is awesome news as if my 4l60e ever bites the dust, I would love to go with a 6 speed mainly for the lower OD (gear spread would be nice too though).I'm running an E67 ECU but with a T42 TCM and modified CTSV OS for a 4 speed but it would be pretty easy to set it up with the 6 speed OS.

Awesome work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
If you could post some pics of the trans installed when you get a chance, it would be really helpful! maybe if you can take a quick measurement of the trans/driveline angle as well. did you have to angle the trans downwards too far to clear the tunnel?

I'm shocked, I didn't think fitting one of these would be possible using KDS mounts without really raising/widening the tunnel a great deal or having the trans hang insanely low. This is awesome news as if my 4l60e ever bites the dust, I would love to go with a 6 speed mainly for the lower OD (gear spread would be nice too though).I'm running an E67 ECU but with a T42 TCM and modified CTSV OS for a 4 speed but it would be pretty easy to set it up with the 6 speed OS.

Awesome work!
i wll post some later, see post #15 how I "Modified" the transmission to fit. I did drop the transmission mount area by 1/8" or you can cut off 1/8" off the transmission mount rubber side. My biggest mod to the tunnel is that I flattened the body lip at the top of the tunnel and I used a small prybar at the transmission tail to make a little bit of room, not much maasaging is needed. Engine is sitting all the way back on KDS, if it was sitting all the way forward (must holley 302-2 pan or TSP 82073) less modification would have been needed.

If you were to go 6L go for the 6l90E (beefed up) from a 2wd truck--both 6L80e and 6L90e from trucks came with the slip yoke vs the cars came with 3 prong flange yoke(more $$$$).

Wiring is easy, connect every thing per pin out can bus data line data as follows: ECM to TCM to OBD2 port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
More fun:

Hoses:
upper radiator hose: Gates 20893 (for 1994-1996 caprice/impala)
Lower radiator hose: Gates 22045 (for 1994 to 1995 3.8 V6 mustang)
i reused the stock heater core hoses, and cut both upper and lower hoses to fit for a cleaner install.
Bought generic transmision rubber hoses and ran to the transmission cooler ports on the radiator, since the PPV lines are 1/2" i converted ports on the radiator (5/8"-18 fitting thread side) using a 5/8"-18 to -08 an male then used a female - 08 An push lock fitting. Fluid flow as follow: Top port of the 6L80e(feed) to the bottom port of the radiator > comes up radiator cooler and through the external cooler (true cool M7B oil cooler) then return to botton port on the 6L80e(return)
AC hoses will have to be customed due to using a truck compressor.
 

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i wll post some later, see post #15 how I "Modified" the transmission to fit. I did drop the transmission mount area by 1/8" or you can cut off 1/8" off the transmission mount rubber side. My biggest mod to the tunnel is that I flattened the body lip at the top of the tunnel and I used a small prybar at the transmission tail to make a little bit of room, not much maasaging is needed. Engine is sitting all the way back on KDS, if it was sitting all the way forward (must holley 302-2 pan or TSP 82073) less modification would have been needed.

If you were to go 6L go for the 6l90E (beefed up) from a 2wd truck--both 6L80e and 6L90e from trucks came with the slip yoke vs the cars came with 3 prong flange yoke(more $$$$).

Wiring is easy, connect every thing per pin out can bus data line data as follows: ECM to TCM to OBD2 port.
Nice! Thank you for that info. You're not running any type of body lift or anything like that? I'm just trying to make sense of all this as Fix Until Broke stated the following regarding his 6l80e swap (and it looks like he used a slip yoke version from the pics in the thread)

"
There was "significant" reshaping of the floor pan at the back of the 6L90 to get it to clear - the metal stretched so much that there's some stress tears in it - any more and I would have had to cut/weld (as it is, they're sealed with seam sealer and painted). I have a 1.5" body lift and the engine/trans crossmember is 1.5" lower than stock too so keep that in mind for ground clearance"
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
If you could post some pics of the trans installed”
Pictures as requested, it’s a snug fit!
KDS mount & drop mount area by 1/8”
Transmission pan almost equal to header collector- I’m using the stock 2014 caprice PPV pan. The Camaro Transmission pan upgrade would hang lower but should not be an issue if you’re at stock height, I chose not to “upgrade” as I don’t want the chance of Hitting Transmission pan.
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Congrats on getting it to fit so easily (at least from here it looked easy :), but I know it's a lot of work!).

Is the transmission pan the lowest thing/first to hit?
Pictures as requested, it’s a snug fit!
KDS mount & drop mount area by 1/8”
Transmission pan almost equal to header collector- I’m using the stock 2014 caprice PPV pan. The Camaro Transmission pan upgrade would hang lower but should not be an issue if you’re at stock height, I chose not to “upgrade” as I don’t want the chance of Hitting Transmission pan.
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Thanks for the pictures! You're right - that's pretty cozy!

I wonder if the 6.0 is shorter in length and/or farther forward than the 6.6 in mine? Moving the whole assembly forward a couple inches would make a big difference. I pushed mine back as far as possible for weight distribution, however didn't have to touch the body seam up near the firewall.

It does look like the transmission pan is the first thing to hit though? The headers look lowest on the right side of the car (left side of the picture above), but down the center it looks like the front of the transmission pan is the lowest thing?

What are the two hoses on the right side between the engine oil pan and the headers?

It's always interesting to see how other people solve similar problems - always something to be learned!

Thanks again for the updates & pictures
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
I wonder if the 6.0 is shorter in length and/or farther forward than the 6.6 in mine? Moving the whole assembly forward a couple inches would make a big difference. are you running a Duramax ? or just a punch out LS? The mounts you use will make a big difference in fitment. The 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 blocks should be the same as the heads crossed over and can be swapped around.
It does look like the transmission pan is the first thing to hit though? The headers look lowest on the right side of the car (left side of the picture above), but down the center it looks like the front of the transmission pan is the lowest thing? They're both real close as in which one would hit first, just depending on the situation, i'm going back to stock height tires 27" and suspension. Fingers crossed, did not bottom out or hit anything yet up here in NJ.

What are the two hoses on the right side between the engine oil pan and the headers? Transmission oil cooler hoses, size 1/2" not really a fan of location-but it's working fine (i check them regularly) would be figuring out another solution in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
On to the front suspension & steering: I installed global west springs in the front and removed the tired hotckis springs. I had pleny of nose dive even with the brake prop valve mod, i'm hard on the brakes. New front upper and lower control arms with the 5/8" ball joints(2000 astro RWD) and 5/8" spindles, new inner and outer tie rods. Installed jeep steering shaft, this mod removed a lot of the steering slop. Also installed the F body brace 2CF-842. Will definitely need an alignment but the overall feel is the steering is tight!

New body bushings: Energy 3.4136G

Shocks are Bilsteins all the way around (1104 and 929s).

Rear suspension: UMI extended adjustable upper and lower arms, coil springs Moog 5387
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
After some spirited driving, the front brakes would be Hot! You can smell them, hear the hissing and once they were smoking.

Upgraded the front brakes to Kore 3 hybrid 14” rotors coupled with C6 corvette 2 piston calipers (same as c5 but stiffer). I bought the bracket, rotors(modified) and hubs from Kore 3, I went to rock auto for the pads and calipers. I ordered 18” wheels, hopefully there’s enough clearance.
Stock wheels temporarily installed without calipers so that I can torque everything accordingly.
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I wonder if the 6.0 is shorter in length and/or farther forward than the 6.6 in mine? Moving the whole assembly forward a couple inches would make a big difference. are you running a Duramax ? or just a punch out LS? The mounts you use will make a big difference in fitment. The 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 blocks should be the same as the heads crossed over and can be swapped around.
It does look like the transmission pan is the first thing to hit though? The headers look lowest on the right side of the car (left side of the picture above), but down the center it looks like the front of the transmission pan is the lowest thing? They're both real close as in which one would hit first, just depending on the situation, i'm going back to stock height tires 27" and suspension. Fingers crossed, did not bottom out or hit anything yet up here in NJ.

What are the two hoses on the right side between the engine oil pan and the headers? Transmission oil cooler hoses, size 1/2" not really a fan of location-but it's working fine (i check them regularly) would be figuring out another solution in the future.
Looking good! Really like the brake and suspension upgrades. I've read up on the steering shaft upgrade - Will have to add that to the list. I think there's a 99 Cherokee in the yard that I can steel the shaft from and try it out in my 94 RMW.

The engine looks slid back nicely to the firewall (lots of room up front too). Yes, I'm running a duramax. Just for my own curiosity, I'll take some measurements of overall length next time I'm at the shop - plenty of LS's and Duramax's to measure :). I'm using stock LT1 engine mounts, but slid back on the crossmember and with "custom" adapters (angle iron :)) to the block.

Not sure about a 6.0, but on the 6.6 I was able to re-use the factory trans cooler lines all the way up to the motor mounts that tuck up nicely between the oil pans and up the side of the engine block. Maybe something to look for in a scrap yard?

Thanks again for sharing the updates!
 
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