Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,042 Posts
The Caprice and 9C1 bodies are identical. The only difference you might find is the spotlights on the 9C1. The 9C1 has minimal trim as well, so they look really plain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Different springs and shocks, green silicone hoses, rear disc brakes, exterior trim varies but not necessarily "plain", not all 9c1's have spotlights, yellow buttons on the dash or rubber floors, dog dish hubcaps, nor are they all LT1's. It should be noted that 9c1's are also Caprice Classics so the comparison is actually between civilian and 9c1 Caprices.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,651 Posts
Standard Caprice have the Impala width rears w/o disc brakes. Caprice 9C1's have the narrower rears w/ disc brakes.

9C1's have more body bushings than the standard Caprice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the info guys. For now, its just the outside body that I want to get to look right.
Asume 9c1's didnt have the Caprice Classic badging ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Thanks for all the info guys. For now, its just the outside body that I want to get to look right.
Asume 9c1's didnt have the Caprice Classic badging ?
All three of the 9C1s that I have purchased had the Caprice Classic Badges unused in the glove box. The different departments had not applied them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,591 Posts
Excerpts from
Special Equipment Options Available with 9C1 Police Package

B81 All Body Side Molding Delete
Body Side Moldings are deleted from front fenders, doors, and rear quarter panels (moldings are NOT shipped loose in the vehicle).

6J6 Rear Panel Lights
Two 4-inch red single-faced lights mounted behind rear seat back to be viewed through rear window. These lights function as auxiliary turn signals, stop lamps, and vehicle hazard flashers.

You asked about the exterior. There are several others that apply to the trunk and the interior, that can still be discerned from outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,843 Posts
Chrome trim removal and debadging. N97 rims. Narrower rear axle. Spring stance/height.

Those are the main exterior "noticeables". The ride height/stance is really one of the most observeable differences. Most hate it though and drop them w/ a new spring/shock combo. This, imho, totally obscures the difference between a true 9C1 setup and a bastard. The rear (optional) bilstien shock for the 9C1 spring was particular to that spring height. If you want it to look authentic, it has to retain the "curb hopper" clearance. If you want it to ride and perhaps even look better, choosing a different spring/shock combo is required. A quandary for purists...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
438 Posts
Civilians came from the factory with sound deadening material over the firewall/bulkhead. 9C1's do not have this material.

-LT-
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
116 Posts
Wow, this is the FIRST thread I've ever come across where (1) you guys hit the nail on the head with trim and pkg options and (2) I didn't read anything stupid like "9C1s came with shift kits and bullet proof windows" SMH.

Don't let my post count fool you, I'm active elsewhere (local) and LOVE a good 9C1. Tastefully modded, or stock. Others disagree.

What is the OP using for a "canvas"? I haven't seen puctures.

There are MANY things that a 9C1 had/didn't have compared to your gràndmas Caprice Classic L99.

From features like a "heavy duty trunk mat" to the single key for ignition and door/trunk locks, it all varies on the department that ordered it.

The "yellow trunk release" on the dash isn't, as I've found recently, a tell tail sign. You can have RPO code 6H6 which moves the yellow button from the headlamp panel to be a two switch piece that includes the "surveillance" button.

Right, on about having no spotlights as well. Mine was a factory 7X7 car (dual spotlights). Good luck finding the metal brackets. Mine were in the trunk. C shaped door gaskets are catching $$ these days too. All can be done relatively cheap tho. One of our local members is doing a 9C1 clone with a B4U spotlight and all. Came out perfect!

Since everyone clones 9C1 cars into an Impala SS, another member ventured of and started to clone a 9C1 out of an SS. Alot harder than you think given the pass key, body mounts, extra coolers, fuse panel, certified speedo, ground straps on the tail pipes etc etc.

For wheels, yes, factory black N97 HD wherls with either N92 chrome bolt on center caps or PO3 full wheel covers.

Some had bench seats, some had buckets with the passenger seat off cènter on factory added bracketry. I put roadmaster buckets in mine and removed the off center brackets. They could come full HD cloth, full vinyl, or half and half. Full power, half power, no power options. Mine has ZERO and I prefer to keep it Flintstone style. Just about any color interior could be ordered as well. For instance, Texas DPS had ruby red and tan interiors on the the road at the same time. IIRC, there was no combo that allowed you to order a black 9C1 with red interior. Correct me if I'm wrong

You could add a ticket light if you wanted. NOT all have one. Again, mine dies not have the RPO code. No rear lollipops or trunk flashers either.

A marked unit like mine will have RPO options for antennae and light bar mounting holes unless its a slick top. Unmarked you'll have a better chance of little to no holes at all.

If you really want the "look", as previously mentioned, get the correct suspension. You can drive over anything with it. There was even mention of a skid plate installed under the engine cradle.

If your stumped on wheels, ie rudiculous parts hoarder prices, a health alternative is the 15x7 and/or 15x8 truck rims with the slots instead if the holes like an N97.

Can be had for cheap and like any steel wheel, you can have it widened to 10" and run, say, a 295 out back. Not necessary with a civilian model really if you're going for looks, as the drum rear isn't narrow like the 9C1 disc rear.

I solved that narrow rear end eyesore with some staggered aftermarket 17" wheels.

I did however, retain every single piece from my build that makes the car a 9C1 to 100% of its SPID label. Minus the skinny chrome body moulding that was trashed when I bought it.

If you want to go the "whacker/wannabe" route hardcore, Setine still sells the style push bar that was pretty common on these in the day. I think they're like $150. I still have the one that came on mine. All tucked away with my 9C1 parts treasure trove.

I hope my rant helps to some degree of helping you identify even a 9C1 at a junk yard if you're looking for parts.

Don't forget prisoner locks in the door jambs, no coat hook or courtesy lights, lack of a cigarette lighter option, LT1 option vs standard L99, front spindles have larger 5/8" ball joints, and even the brake pads were thicker to keep heat away from the caliper thus not hearing the fluid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
" front spindles have larger 5/8" ball joints"

Only very late '95 and '96's have 5/8 ball joints. It's a rare 9c1 that has the ticket light delete because it was standard equipment with the package, but there are a few like that. The narrow rear end is only an "eyesore" to a few with delicate sensibilities.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
116 Posts
"Who told you I had delicate sensibilities"

Either way you look at it, the 5/8 ball joint is an upgrade if sorts. No necessary, but at least you can say you did it and have it.

As for the ticket light delete, FWIW, last time I checked compnine, my VIN matched 15 other '96 9C1s with the same RPO codes. Maybe all of those cars were ordered by the Metro Transit Authority.

My 9C1 has
Manual windows
Manual seats
No ticket light like we discussed
No other SEO emergency style lighting except for the SEO hole for a light bar
And, it is a factory radio delete 9C1 as well
No cigarette lighter
BUT, for so cal, it WAS ordered with rear defrost (scratches head)
No posi either, as I understand it was an OPTION.
I had an Eatin posi unit installed in September of 2009 when the spider pin broke in half :/
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
116 Posts
Forgive me for all the spelling errors. Damn iPhone tiny keyboard.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
116 Posts
That's the one! Has it been determined if it was an OEM, Dealer, or upfitter part?

I'd like to get my hands on one. Or, at LEAST a life size and accurate template.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
635 Posts
This:



Very heavy and very thick. Road Warrior material...we aren't quite there yet so am leaving it off for now
This is the correct factory skidplate however this particular one is broken. There should be (2) 3/8"x3" steel pins sticking down from the small welded on flat plate that slide into the holes in the front crossmember. That is what holds the front part up and then that plate with the bolts sandwiches the back part down.

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,843 Posts
This is the correct factory skidplate however this particular one is broken. There should be (2) 3/8"x3" steel pins sticking down from the small welded on flat plate that slide into the holes in the front crossmember. That is what holds the front part up and then that plate with the bolts sandwiches the back part down.

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
Nah. Not broken, missing those pins perhaps, but it just bolts right on snug even w/out them. One bolt was left threaded to the plate and one unthreaded. Did that on purpose to see the action going on w/ the picture. I've really no way of knowing if it was complete. Just unbolted it from an ex NJ cruiser. The 2 bolts held everything tight and I did drive it w/ this on for a couple years that way.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top