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Discussion Starter #1
I'm up to my nonsense and shenanigans again. As the title says, is it at all possible to fit a 295 tire on a Fleetwood and still retain the skirts in the rear? I know 275s are fine if you trim the handles, and I swear I saw someone on here running 285s once but can't find any reference to it. I'm looking at wheel and tire combos, still trying to figure out what I want. Originally I planned to go to 17" with either SS wheels, or an aftermarket wheel that I think would look good on there. At 17" and 275 options are limited though, to the best of my knowledge Nitto is the only manufacturer that makes tires in the appropriate size. While looking at wheels though I came across the style I like in 18" with the correct lug pattern and offset.

Started looking at tires for that diameter and found a 295 size that has some nice options, at prices I would consider reasonable for the size. I'd be running an 18x9.5 wheel with 295/45/18 tires. The tire would also be 0.5" taller overall than stock, but I have no issue with that, in fact I'm already 1" taller than stock with the tires I currently run because it was what was available when I went to a 255 on the stock 15" wheels. I need to lift the rear up anyways and drop the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump that's recently become finicky about starting once in awhile, I can take a closer look then at how much room I have to work with under there and take some measurements, but was curious if anyone has gone that wide or knows how to make it work.
 

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Ah-So,
A fellow FW'er hunting 18s as I.... You're running mult. tracks so let's seperate:

If keeping to 17" SS wheels I highly recommend 255/ 55 - 17. I said -55, -50s that are stock on an SS. This ratio retains (close) to the 28" oem FW dia. I ran two different brands of that size on my last FWB and the section width was quite wide but fit with the usual modding of the skirt tabs. The guy who has that car now just bought 265 series something with those same SS wheels and they reportedly add a little more dia. to fill the wells more while still clearing everything.

Going to 18 here's some intel I caught recently in discussion with a forum member while considering buying a setup of his. He has a staggered set of 8" and 10" 18" aftermarkets with 285/40 - 18 on the rears. He replied to my concerns about that configuration of such a wide wheel and meaty tire by stating several other guys run that same setup on their FW's. The backspace/offset on his particular wheels required spacer/adapters, but that is not the topic of this thread.

The section width of the tire you're considering is 11.5", while the 255/55-17 I was running were 9.8" - and those were tight to the outside as it was on mine even with modded tabs. Now on the other hand, those 285/40s I referred to the other guy saying will work have a section width of 11.4" which is darned close to what your choice. That 9 1/2" wheel you're considering is on the narrow edge of the recommended widths of 9 1/2 - 11" for that tire. Since the section width I saw was measured using a 10" wheel then you might see a minuscule less sect. width for teencey better clearance.

All the above points to quite an exercise in cypherin' as Jethro Bodine would say. I'd say your section width and wheel BS/offset is the diciest bits. Me, Ima go in slightly different direction. I want rotatability and pretty much steering toward some 18" 8 1/2" CTS takeoffs with spacer adapters. And maybe 1/2-1" more tire dia. for a little more sidewall slash comfort. Exactly what wheels are you considering?

If you've already poured over the "billions and billions" of threads on our cars' fuel woes then fine. But touchy starts to me could be as much grounds, FPR, dirty injectors, filter, TPS, IAC, PCV, intake leak, broke hose(s) or ??? as much as a fuel pump. You might have someone crank it while you smack the tank with a 2 x 4 just forthehelluvit to see if the common burned harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have 255s on my 15s already, not enough, but I never know when you enough is enough. I thought the most popular option when putting the SS wheels on the Caddy were the Nitto NT450 in 275/50/17. They're an excellent tire, fit the rim well and are very reasonably priced for what they are. I just don't like that they're the only tire available in that size. They also end up just a hair smaller in diameter than the stock Fleetwood tires. I suppose I could jump up to the 275/55/17 size, it puts me at the same diameter I am now, (about an inch taller) and there's a lot of options at that size. Plus the added benefit of filling out the wheel wells a little better.

With the aftermarket wheel I want (US Mags Rambler), the numbers I came up with seemed to indicate that I would end up 1.11" further out, 1.19" further in and .25" closer to the top of the fender well. Although I thought that being on the low side of the rim width that will work for that tire size, I would end up with some bulge that would push the section width out a little more? I could potentially go to the manufacturers website and see if I can get that rim with all the same specs, but with a slightly positive offset to bring it in closer to the inboard side, assuming I have the space needed under there to do that. But yeah, I know I'm pushing the limits of what can be done without major modification so every thing needs to be measured with surgical precision and no missteps in my math can be allowed.

Also, I have no real reason to not to run a square setup, my understanding is that there is little issue with fitting larger tires up front since you don't have the skirts to deal with. With my 255s at 1" taller, the tires have never touched anything under there and visually appears to have miles of room everywhere before there'd be any real cause for concern. In fact didn't the limos run 235/75/15, which would be an inch taller anyways? And I also don't plan to lower the car, if anything I like the front where it is, but would like the rear up a bit higher for a raked look. (Actually I think it should be raked a bit stock, but my FE1 suspension is still all original to the car and I think my air shocks are on life support).

Granted I don't really need that big of a tire up front, I'm more interested in putting as much rubber out back as I can in order to keep from breaking loose under hard acceleration once I get up to the power levels I'm aiming for, but it'd be simpler than trying to put together a matching front and rear staggered set. I already spent way too many hours coming up with something that would work on the Vette and not break the bank, (I'm sticking 325s under the back of that thing because, well, I can). That's going to get a staggered setup with factory 275s up front, using Michelin Pilot Super Sports all around, and just a little taller overall because that car is just too damn low to the ground, at least for this town. I'm tired of smacking the front chin spoiler over every dip or large pothole.

As for the fuel pump, I've reached the stage where it works perfectly fine about 98% of the time, but have had 1 shutdown, and 3 failure to start events over the past month and the pump is definitely not running when it happens. I figure there's very little that could cause it that wouldn't involve dropping the tank, so I ordered the Racetronix kit with upgraded harness and wiring. It actually just came today and I've almost run the tank dry in the Caddy so I'll be able to do that soon. And while it's out I'll also do the procedure on here for cleaning the sending unit to correct the bogus fuel level readings. Ever since I got it, once it gets down to the last 2 or 3 bars on the gauge, it's sucking fumes, so I just always refill when it hits 1/4 tank or before.

And I have no reason to suspect VATS, I've never had any issue with it and I don't get the warning light on the dash for it. As for all the other causes, like I said I've confirmed that when I have the issue, the pump simply isn't running, but it always starts up later and the car will run like brand new until it decides not to work again. On a side note, when I got the kit today I found it had the turbine tech or whatever pump in it. I thought racetronix went back to the Walbro pump due to complaints and failures with this purple thing? Even the website still lists the kit as coming with a Walbro pump. Can't decide if I should throw it in, or fork out another $80 for a Walbro (or something else) and substitute it into the Racetronix kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Did some more playing around with sizes and numbers and have a fall back plan. If I can't make the 295s work, I have a setup with 275s on 17" wheels that should work fine. Either the SS wheels, or the aftermarket ones that I like in 17", with 275/55/17 tires. With the offset of the aftermarket wheel, I'll need an additional .35" of room compared to my current 255 setup, or .7" more than the factory stock setup. So I can check that at least, but I don't think it'll be an issue. As for the 295s, I need more offset because I just can't imagine that there's enough room there for an additional 1.1" of tire. Something in the neighborhood of +10mm would put the tire the same distance from the skirt as the fall back sizes. Although that would also put 1.5" more tire on the inboard side and I don't really know if there's that much room or not, might be, honestly don't know. And depending on how much clearance there is between the stock tires and shaved skirt handles, I could possibly get away with a little less than the +10mm offset that I think I need. Something for me to work on anyways.
 

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Talk To Yourself Much?

I get the same feeling in this section sometimes. There's not nearly so many of us anymore, and you gotta admit you're testing limits of a fitment that hasn't been overdone to say the least. I'll offer something that may help your calculatin', or it won't. A real test example of something I did over 10 years ago on the FWB.

I had regular SS wheels widened 1.5" to 10" with 315/35 for my SS. So now you have an adjusted BS/offset to work from. Just for a photoshoot and possible test drive I tried putting them on my Cady. Considering the Fleetwood's narrow rear I found the wheel never hit the frame, but the sidewall met it when the lugs were about 3/8" from fully tight. Adding anything less than a 3/4" spacer would not be enough to kick it outboard to clear the frame AFAIC. But then you're into the skirt tabs on the other side.

Granted that tire is way over the largest profile you're considering, but I say sidewall is your enemy on this. If you don't particularly want to build a huge spacer collection getting everything to fit perfect, then you might want to reach out to summatha wheel guru types who may have moved to the other forum more consistently - and who may not have a FWB either to be checking this section.

Good luck, a few of us are sure looking for your results to add to the collective.
 

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Ok here is what I have. I am running 275/40-17's on 17X9.5's. Now they are 5X114 with adapters. I have rub problems on the passenger side and towards the back side of the wheel opening not in the center. the inside is close but no rub. Now I have a hearse do the body is different but it is bonded to stock quarters as far as I understand. And I am running no skirts or mounting brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had planned to do my fuel pump and related stuff today and over the weekend, but it decided to be really freaking hot out and I don't handle heat very well. Once I get under there I can measure, maybe pull a wheel off and see exactly how much space is between the frame and the skirts to see if a tire that wide can even go under there.

I couldn't find many other offset choices with the 5x5 bolt pattern in the wheel I like, at least not without doing a custom order (which I think they do, but I suspect it would be pricey) but if I go with Ridler 695s or American Racing Torque Thrusts there are a few other positive offsets that may work alone or with a small spacer. But again, I need more accurate measurements from underneath the car first.

As far as the hearse though, weren't those usually built on the same commercial chassis as the limo, and came with a different, larger rear end and larger rear brakes? Not sure if things would still be the same under there fitment-wise or not on that car. I'm not super familiar with the hearse though, but I do know a little of the differences between the standard cars and the limos.

This is a project that's a little ways down the list yet. The LS pcm swap/24x conversion is next, after that I'd like to get the rear end that's been taking up space in my garage built and swapped in, then I can move forward with a wheel and tire package. Not even sure it'll happen this year, just trying to get my ducks in a row well before I commit to anything.

And yes, I totally talk to myself sometimes, also I write posts that are way too long. It's sort of a way for me to spitball ideas and see what comes from it. You never know what might catch someones attention and get them to chime in with info that'll help me figure out what I'm trying to do.
 

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I had planned to do my fuel pump and related stuff today and over the weekend, but it decided to be really freaking hot out and I don't handle heat very well. Once I get under there I can measure, maybe pull a wheel off and see exactly how much space is between the frame and the skirts to see if a tire that wide can even go under there.

I couldn't find many other offset choices with the 5x5 bolt pattern in the wheel I like, at least not without doing a custom order (which I think they do, but I suspect it would be pricey) but if I go with Ridler 695s or American Racing Torque Thrusts there are a few other positive offsets that may work alone or with a small spacer. But again, I need more accurate measurements from underneath the car first.

As far as the hearse though, weren't those usually built on the same commercial chassis as the limo, and came with a different, larger rear end and larger rear brakes? Not sure if things would still be the same under there fitment-wise or not on that car. I'm not super familiar with the hearse though, but I do know a little of the differences between the standard cars and the limos.

This is a project that's a little ways down the list yet. The LS pcm swap/24x conversion is next, after that I'd like to get the rear end that's been taking up space in my garage built and swapped in, then I can move forward with a wheel and tire package. Not even sure it'll happen this year, just trying to get my ducks in a row well before I commit to anything.

And yes, I totally talk to myself sometimes, also I write posts that are way too long. It's sort of a way for me to spitball ideas and see what comes from it. You never know what might catch someones attention and get them to chime in with info that'll help me figure out what I'm trying to do.
Not all hearses and Limo's got the heavy duty rear. Mine does and yes the brake drums are larger but I believe the axe width is the same as normal. My wheels with the spacers if i remember right come out to a 5 inch back space. The wheels are 6.5 inch back spacer with 1.5 inch spacers. The 14 bolt rear is mighty nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did measure the best I could while under there, and I suspect that with perfect offset, a stiff enough sidewall, generous removal of material while doing the skirt latch mod and a little luck, a 295 should fit. No idea if I'm going to attempt it though, other priorities ahead of wheels and tires right now anyways. If I ever do try it and if I'm successful, any useful info will end up on here for the benefit of others.
 
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