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Discussion Starter #1
so im going to build a 383, starting from a bones 350 block. first of all, i DO have to get the block bored .030" over correct? this is not a real "budget" build but i dont want to spend a ton of money if you know what i mean. so my first question...the stroker kit. are they all the same? i've noticed a lot of them if not all are made of forged components, do i need this? im not going to be running boost or nitrous. so what are the good kits out there and their prices? thanks in advance...there will be more questions later.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
A forged rotating assembly is a good way to start building a motor as there will be a solid foundation to work upon should there ever be a need for upgrading.

Speedomotive.com(Mostly GEN 1 SBC, but a few GEN 2 stuff)
cmotorsports.com(whether it be LT1, LS1, L03 or L05)

Speedomotive has a GEN 1 383 rotating assembly for $750 and they also have the same kit but fully forged for $1564.

Even though the regular kit can get you by, the forged kit will take you where you want to go and then some.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
That kit as supplied would have the wrong gaskets and meant for a 2 piece rear main which means like 86 and older. IMO people are too quick to jump on the forged bandwagon cast has come a long ways and for the pistons in an NA application the Hyperutetic which are really just a better version of cast are great. If going big nitorus shot or boost then forged starts to make sense.
Really there is one detail you are neglecting year of car I would guess an 91-3 right?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
So dwayne, you're saying unless your doing some kind of forced induction or N2O you really don't have a need for forging??

I know it contradicts what I just said but I was looking at building a Hypereutectic vortec 383, instead of using the forged stuff.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Correct, now if you think the power bug will keep biting and might push you to a power adder later then forged makes sense from the "do it once" standpoint.
Want proof of what a non-forged engine can handle just look at the power guys are making with LT1s, hyper pistons, powdered metal rods, and I believe the crank is nodular iron.

I was for a few years involved with a dirt track stockcar team talked to several engine builders and NONE liked forged for those 600hp alky motors turning 6500+rpms.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
No forced induction for me at all.

So the $750 kit & vortec heads will be good enough.

I figure the build up to be around $3k with my original L05 block.

Then it's on to body work.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I would talk to them about pistons the first ones in the kit are supposed to give you 11:1 with a 64cc chamber, I would want to shoot lower than that and NOT resort to a thick head gasket to do it. The TRW hyper would give you 9.6 which is more reasonable but maybe a tad low.
Consider having them do the balancing since it looks to be a flat rate and if done local it will be time and material which could easily end up costing much more. Kit looks like a good starting point but you will have to add some cost to it with the balancing and such. I know the LT1 guys like the Scat I beam rods and they are only like $220 a set new might see if they could work something out there but not critical. I would look at doing some light work on the Vortecs and running some non-stock intake think some of the Edelbrocks can be made to work well.

Back to the earlier question about overbore you are going to have to overbore it some you could likely get away with just .010 which ends up being smaller than 383 by a little but I would overbore it wrong place to try to save a buck.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
yes its going in a 91..
isnt it true that all 350 blocks are the same, i mean the 1-piece 2-piece seal is just crankshaft dependent isnt it?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Not to sound like an a**, but If they were the same they'd all be either 1 piece or 2 piece.

They do make conversion kit to go from 1-piece>2-piece and vice versa.


Yes they are crankshaft dependent & also block dependent. So you can't put a 1piece crank on a 2 piece block or vice versa as they won't seal properly.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
You want a one piece block not just for the one piece crank seal but also because they are factory roller cam blocks and roller cams are worthwhile, they are signifigant contributors to how engines are making so much power these days without drivability drawbacks.
 
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I think Dwayne might be a little off/wrong, as the 91-95 era TBI L03 & L05 truck motors are hydraulic but they are flat tappet motors as the roller motors only came in automobiles, such as the B & D body.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
They are still roller blocks they just got flat tappet cams, at least best I know anyway been wrong before. This explaination would make us both right at least to a degree.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
as for a cam...does it make a difference if i go non-roller as opposed to roller? i know roller cams are more money but if i get a non-roller cam am i going to be looking at any power-loss or any other type of drawback?
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Roller block that is with the spider plate in the center of the lifter valley right? I remeber taking it off when i change my manifold gasket
 
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Discussion Starter #17
should i keep the tbi or just go carb...if i go tbi will i need the 454 injectors?...if i go carb what size carb is ideal...650?
 
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Discussion Starter #18
You should get the edelbrock Multi Port Fuel Injection then you wont have 2 injecters :( to serve 8 cylinders you will have 8 injectors :D
 
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Discussion Starter #19
also if you plan to make more than 400 horsies and 400 tourque you need to get the 750 CFM system off ebay if you plan to stat tbi do a search for tbi under ebay motors cost is near 250 dollars I think
 
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Discussion Starter #20
what do you mean by "750 cfm system"...if i went carb id just get an edelbrock manifold with a rochester carb, arent those pretty good?
 
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