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The LC2 will always be one of THE most important turbocharged V6s EVER.
(Needed even more emphasis.)

The worst thing about the 6L80E is its costs.
Based on the above, I'd choose PerformaBuilt's Black 4L60E.
 
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“91” Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser
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Didn't Jeeps use the same V6? That might be another route for a transmission.
 

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1993 RMW, 1992 OCC
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The LC2 will always be one of THE most important turbocharged V6s ever.
The worst thing about the 6L80E is its costs.
Based on the above, I'd choose PerformaBuilt's Black 4L60E.
I love the idea of a Buick engine in a Buick car that never came with one. I briefly considered a Buick V8, but when I saw that someone had already done all the hard work of successfully putting a Buick Turbo V6 into a B-body wagon, I couldn't get the idea out of my head. I'm a huge Grand National nut.

Apparently this thing ran low 11s in its heyday. It's now mostly stock again (plus alcohol injection and a turbo chip) with over 250k miles on the long block and it's still fast as a bat out of hell.
 

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Apparently this thing ran low 11s in its heyday.

Was there further work that put it in the low 11's?

FROM 2009,

"1987 Grand National Turbo Powered!!!
1992 Olds Custom Cruiser-Built by BUICK TURBO PERFORMANCE

Went 12.7'[email protected] with OLD combo[(Ta60 turbo,42.5# inj. & stock 12" TQ)
SHOULD RUN LOW LOW- 12's w/NEW COMBO.
1992 Olds CC:
  • 1987 Buick GN motor-Billet alum. adj. F.P reg.,K&N etc.
  • Caspers Electronics custom wireing harness.
  • Walbro 340 fuel pump w/hotwire kit.
  • CAS 22 row stock location intercooler.
  • Eaton posi unit w/3.42 gears
  • Race Built 700r4 trans.
  • PAS Razor alcohol injection.
  • New Impala SS wheels
  • All factory gauges , pillar mount boost gauge-all lite w/blue LED's.
  • Remote start,Sony CD.
  • New Loyds mats.
  • Dual electric
  • Custom 3" alumnized exhaust.
  • Ice cold AC.
  • Cruise control.
  • Fac. Sungate windsheild.
  • Pwr. locks/windows ,tilt-etc.
  • Paints 3 years old base/clear.

Recent mods:
*4- New 255/55/17 Federal tires. http://www.federaltire.com/en/images/product/051229033137_535.jpg
*TE67GT turbo
  • Custon 3" exhaustelbow/dump
  • Motron 60# inj.
  • PPC-9" Non LU 3000 Stall TQ.
  • Dual nozzel alcohol injection.
  • 3" LT1 MAF Translator Plus.
  • Tubo Tweak alky chip-adjustable timing & fuel.
  • Hotchkis front & rear sway bars-Also adjustable upper & lower control arms.
  • B&M line lock,trans cooler & oil cooler.
  • Scanmaster
  • Some new sensors,Goodyear serp belt & hi torque mini starter.
  • Prof. built 700r4 w/all billet,harden & hd parts.($2,500)
119,000 on the car-Motor installed 2003

Price is $12,000

Jim 610-721-4695
Pa. 19018"
 

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Not saying it didnt but Jims fastest posted run was
Timeslip

Data

Setup
|0|12|True|0|15|
12.9 / 106.4
Setup Name1992|Custom Cruiser214
Date/Time
Location
60'
330'
1/8
ET/MPH
1000'
1/4
ET/MPH
Weight
Techniques
CRAWL OUT W/THE WHITEWALLS,W.O.T AT THE 60'
Track Conditions
CECIL COUNTY DRAGWAY,MD.,OCT. 10/2003,3:04PM,SEALEVEL,NO TEMP. ON SLIP BUT IT WAS ABOUT 65 NO-SLICKS ! 225/75/15 WHITEWALLS!
Notes
NO SLICKS AT THE TRACK-225/75/15 WHITEWALLS,THIS IS MY WIFE&KIDS DAILY DRIVER,IT GETS 20+ MPG ON THE HIGHWAY,ALL OPTIONS INCLUDING CRUISE,AC ETC.

 

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1993 RMW, 1992 OCC
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yes, he had a bunch more work in it after that, but didn't post timeslips. That 12.7 was immediately after the swap. The built transmission, big turbo, 3.42 rear end and stretch intercooler ended up making a much bigger difference than expected. I did see a timeslip for high 11s, though I don't have it handy. Then he added the 60# injectors and a few other things. With all that and drag radials, it was a low-11 second car.

Right now it's still running the 60# injectors, a new stock turbo and intercooler, alcohol, Walbro pump with hotwire kit, LT1 MAF, billet fuel pressure regulator, headers and a chip. It puts out 15psi (could be easily 20+ with a manual controller) through a 3" exhaust. There's zero KR no matter how hard I beat on it, and it flies up to 100mph in the blink of an eye. Driving it home from Massachusetts, we were maintaining an impressive clip through the mountains and managed an easy 22mpg.

Unfortunately, the previous owner's dog made its home in it for years, so the interior is an absolute wreck. Seatbelts have been chewed all the way through, trim has teeth marks all over, and there's a bunch of other tears and damage. The body is showing its age, too. The custom paint job is checked and peeling all over, there's a gaping hole in the driver footwell, and all the steering bits are on their last leg. Climate control doesn't work at all, radio is shot, cruise control won't engage, left turn signal doesn't auto-cancel... etc, etc, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Sorry, correction: car ran low 12 seconds after all the mods on street tires, high 11s with drag radials.
 

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Unfortunately, the previous owner's dog made its home in it for years, so the interior is an absolute wreck.
You could remove most of the interior and make it more strip than street. If not it sounds like you will need a boat load of new/used parts.
 

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1993 RMW, 1992 OCC
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Oh I have a whole other car's worth of interior parts to put in it. But one project at a time 🤣 First will be the Roadmaster!
 

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GoremanX,
For whatever it's worth, I'm not merely trying to convince YOU to consider or try a 6L90E, but the point is, the more speeds the transmission has, the less necessary a higher-stall torque converter becomes - especially once the transmission is tuned properly for enthusiastic driving instead of aiming for the last tenth of a MpG.

Given a 3.42 or better R&P, a 4L60E vs a 700R4 is like an M193 cartridge vs an M855A1.
I recently showed someone how much more fun his V4P could be with careful 4L60E tuning.

Since I've no clue what engine you're intending, I'll stop beating this dead horse after I say this:
You may very well be selling the 6L80E/6L90E short.(emphasis mine, obviously)
In the CTS-V, in rain or snow, 1st gear was for same-lane U-turns ONLY - never got old.
A second shift table is not needed, but it's still extremely useful and never hurts.
8L has a first-gear ratio of 4.56. Can't reasonably use a diff gear higher than 3.0. 13.68 first overall....unless a truck with a really tall tire or a donk. My PPV is 6L (4.03 as stated) and I will be installing a 3.08 in a Camaro 218mm diff. My issues are first and foremost with driveshaft speed, so I'm not even interested in 3.27 or 3.45 ratios. I will be using a ZL1 torque converter, simply for it's more-robust twin-disc lockup clutch. Stall is mildly higher than OE PPV, combined with 3.08 and a crate LS3 (stock) will be a nice gain, when tuned. Not a drag setup, just want to drive.
 

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and 8L is not compatible with LS & earlier control systems....but if there's a stand-alone controller available, it might be worth considering, though I prefer the 218mm Camaro R&P - not sure what other ratios (like 2.92) may be available to complement 8L's 4.56 first gear.

More gears = more cost to service....though I was surprised a GM SERTA 6L80 is under $3K.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah the whole built-in trans controller thing that requires a modern GM PCM to function kinda puts a big damper on using a 6L90E with anything but a modern LTx engine. I've read about some people doing it, but they're literally running two full ECUs in their cars to accomplish the task. I also came across this:
But I'm not sure what is involved in making use of it
 

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There are some LT (current generation) engine/6L trans combinations from GM, but none going the other way. Check out Speartech to see what they currently offer, just as an idea of what's possible. 8L & 10L is big bucks to run, and even more to take advantage of all the features offered in production. Backfit is really a buckets of money deal.
 

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Why not use the 200-4R that was behind the 3.8L? You'll need a bellhousing adapter and torque converter spacer to run a 4L60E or 6L80/90E with the BOP bolt pattern. You can leave out the top bolts as an option and just use the bottom 4 bolts above/below the dowel pins.
 

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BOP ONLY shares the two lower ( as in one per side and dowel postion with Chev

He must already has some sort of adapter as when Turbo231 was selling it in 09 he said it had a 7004R
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Why not use the 200-4R that was behind the 3.8L? You'll need a bellhousing adapter and torque converter spacer to run a 4L60E or 6L80/90E with the BOP bolt pattern. You can leave out the top bolts as an option and just use the bottom 4 bolts above/below the dowel pins.
No easy tuneability, no way to have multiple shift schemes (economy, sport, etc). Heck, even changing shift points on a 200-4R is a frustrating guessing game. I'd prefer to go full electronic.

As mentioned above, the engine is already bolted to a 700R4 with an adapter that will readily accommodate a 4L60E. Also, the TCI 6X is available with a BOP bellhousing, or I could use the same bellhousing adapter.
 

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They are pretty proud of it aren't they ?
BOP 6x plus convertor about $ 8500 ?
Ratios look good ,
Totally agree on electronics
I had more than 100 tweaked calibrations by the time I was really happy with my 4l60e
 

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1993 RMW, 1992 OCC
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
They are pretty proud of it aren't they ?
BOP 6x plus convertor about $ 8500 ?
Yeah that's nuts... if I went for a 6X, I'd just get a standard bellhousing. Also, based on my reading about EZ-TCU, I'm even less interested in it unless there's another option for controlling it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Oh and I don't much care for paddle shift, either. If I wanted a manual trans, I'd get a manual trans. This isn't a race car I want to build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Now I'm leaning even more towards a re-geared 4L60E... the feedback I've been getting from GN owners is that the close ratio of the 6X basically prevents the turbo from ever reaching its ideal range. The transmission shifts constantly and too often, so the turbo is always playing catch-up with the varying engine speed. The close ratio might be beneficial for a n/a engine where it immediately falls into its power band, and even a supercharged engine since the blower immediately follows engine speed, but a turbo needs more time to spool up. Hah, maybe the wide ratio of a 6L90E would be better after all 🤣

Beyond that, there's 1.5 million different controllers for the 4L60E out there, many of which are well established and proven. There's only 1 available controller for the 6X, and apparently it's not well-loved.

I'm not 100% set on a 4L60E Black, I'm going to explore all available options, but I'm pretty sure I'm at least set on a 4L60E of some kind.
 
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