I love the idea of a Buick engine in a Buick car that never came with one. I briefly considered a Buick V8, but when I saw that someone had already done all the hard work of successfully putting a Buick Turbo V6 into a B-body wagon, I couldn't get the idea out of my head. I'm a huge Grand National nut.The LC2 will always be one of THE most important turbocharged V6s ever.
The worst thing about the 6L80E is its costs.
Based on the above, I'd choose PerformaBuilt's Black 4L60E.
Apparently this thing ran low 11s in its heyday.
|Setup Name||1992|Custom Cruiser214|
CRAWL OUT W/THE WHITEWALLS,W.O.T AT THE 60'
CECIL COUNTY DRAGWAY,MD.,OCT. 10/2003,3:04PM,SEALEVEL,NO TEMP. ON SLIP BUT IT WAS ABOUT 65 NO-SLICKS ! 225/75/15 WHITEWALLS!
NO SLICKS AT THE TRACK-225/75/15 WHITEWALLS,THIS IS MY WIFE&KIDS DAILY DRIVER,IT GETS 20+ MPG ON THE HIGHWAY,ALL OPTIONS INCLUDING CRUISE,AC ETC.
8L has a first-gear ratio of 4.56. Can't reasonably use a diff gear higher than 3.0. 13.68 first overall....unless a truck with a really tall tire or a donk. My PPV is 6L (4.03 as stated) and I will be installing a 3.08 in a Camaro 218mm diff. My issues are first and foremost with driveshaft speed, so I'm not even interested in 3.27 or 3.45 ratios. I will be using a ZL1 torque converter, simply for it's more-robust twin-disc lockup clutch. Stall is mildly higher than OE PPV, combined with 3.08 and a crate LS3 (stock) will be a nice gain, when tuned. Not a drag setup, just want to drive.GoremanX,
For whatever it's worth, I'm not merely trying to convince YOU to consider or try a 6L90E, but the point is, the more speeds the transmission has, the less necessary a higher-stall torque converter becomes - especially once the transmission is tuned properly for enthusiastic driving instead of aiming for the last tenth of a MpG.
Given a 3.42 or better R&P, a 4L60E vs a 700R4 is like an M193 cartridge vs an M855A1.
I recently showed someone how much more fun his V4P could be with careful 4L60E tuning.
Since I've no clue what engine you're intending, I'll stop beating this dead horse after I say this:
You may very well be selling the 6L80E/6L90E short.(emphasis mine, obviously)
In the CTS-V, in rain or snow, 1st gear was for same-lane U-turns ONLY - never got old.
A second shift table is not needed, but it's still extremely useful and never hurts.
No easy tuneability, no way to have multiple shift schemes (economy, sport, etc). Heck, even changing shift points on a 200-4R is a frustrating guessing game. I'd prefer to go full electronic.Why not use the 200-4R that was behind the 3.8L? You'll need a bellhousing adapter and torque converter spacer to run a 4L60E or 6L80/90E with the BOP bolt pattern. You can leave out the top bolts as an option and just use the bottom 4 bolts above/below the dowel pins.
Yeah that's nuts... if I went for a 6X, I'd just get a standard bellhousing. Also, based on my reading about EZ-TCU, I'm even less interested in it unless there's another option for controlling it.They are pretty proud of it aren't they ?
BOP 6x plus convertor about $ 8500 ?