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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, im about to sell this car as a parts car..

I have a 1995 RMW, the trans pan was leaking, i pulled the pan off, found the spot where it was leaking, the pan was damaged. I installed a new GM pan, and fel-pro gasket, re-installed it, added 5 quarts of tranny fluid and tried to drive it home. immediately after driving out of my neighborhood, i noticed OD wouldnt kick in, so i pulled over, and tried to re-merge and i noticed it was trying to take off in 3rd. i manually shifted to second and took off, only to find still no overdirve or automatic shifting. I pulled it into a local parts store, checked the dipstick, and no fluid.. looked underneath and no leak. So I bought a couple quarts and added them, checked the stick and it seemed fine. I drove it home, and then 2 1/2 hours to commerce to SSHS9, and then when i went to leave, got a few miles down the road and bam, it started doing the same thing as the day before. Checked fluid level and it looks over-full now, but is doing the same exact thing. it took me 3 hours to drive home doing 55 in 3rd with no OD on back roads. WTF is going on???

EDIT: The SES light is on all the time now also, it comes on as soon as i crank it, and stays on the whole time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
from here on ill stick to this thread :D im actually leak free, aside from my oil leak on top of my VC.. i cant figure out if its the cap or maybe at one fo the bolts?? But could the oil have traveled down off the back of the VC and shorted out the O2 on the passenger side? The fuse blows the second i crank the car everytime now.
 

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That's a good thing. Intermittent faults are so hard to diagnose. Well, go start unplugging things and see what happens. Might as well unplug the O2s first and see if that does it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well im screwed, i unplugged the plug on the passenger side of the transmission, and the fuse stopped blowing. could this have to do with me replacing the pan and gasket?
 

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Woah man, chill out. You found the problem! 4L60E electronics are EASY, and you can get to all of them from the pan. And the parts are cheap.

Get the car up off the ground, take off the pan, and start inspecting the wiring harness. Something's probably chafing somewhere, likely the 12V supply wire. Here's a trick to avoiding a messy pan drop: Go up front, disconnect the cooler line at the only joint with a clamp, then put a short length of hose on the hard line and aim it into a bucket. Have a buddy start the car and let it idle while you watch the stream coming out. As soon as it starts to sputter, shut it off. Let it sit for a minute to drain any remaining fluid into the pan, then restart it for a couple of seconds. This lets the pump get everything out of the pan for you.

Anyway, take the pan off, and start inspecting the wiring. You could have a solenoid failure too, but my bet is you've got a wiring problem. If you need a new harness, send me a PM as I have a spare you can have cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks man! i sure hate outting this car down but hopefully after this i should be done, i just cant keep driving the car like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
YAY! my transmission works smooth again!!






And then today i was doing about 65 up a hill and it down shifted and than basically went into a neutral like state, some smoke came out from underneath.. and now it does nothing at all, absolutely no engagement. so im hunting a new tranny today.

anything i should do to the used transmission i pick up before it goes in?
 

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It's much faster to do a TransGo on a 4L60E when it's out of the car.

That said, are you sure it didn't just pump all the fluid out? The smoke tells me you had something happen with the fluid.
 
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