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Discussion Starter #1
Skip this post if you're familiar with the deep pan. Read on if it's new to you.

With in-town driving and highway towing, I change the pan fluid every 20-25K miles to look for debris and squeeze a little more life from my now-175K transmission. Did it the messy way for years before adding this pan. Filters and drain plugs are available new, but the GM pan is only available used.

Yes, it holds a little more fluid, but mostly it makes fluid changes easier, including when you intend to pull the pan to look for gunk and change the filter.

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The pan notch is a good point to make. There seems to have been a few pans miss labeled over the years and it can be a expensive mistake.

Grinding off the non usable lip on a socket can really make a difference on a shallow nut or bolt head that is stuck.
 

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A few thoughts:
  1. Your local trans shop probably has a pile of these truck pans laying around that they'll sell you cheap. Mine did. Many don't have a drain plug, but I don't care. In fact I got one without a plug. Why?
  2. I use the cooler line to pump out the trans before dropping the pan. It takes out just as much fluid as does this drain bolt. And you don't ever have to worry about the drain bolt coming out or stripping. How to flush your 4L60E transmission fluid
  3. Add more magnets when you drop the pan. Again, local trans shops will have magnets just laying around they'll likely give you or sell very cheap.
  4. Be sure to use the truck-specific filter as identified above.
  5. No dipstick modifications required.
  6. If your car is lowered, I'd stay with the stock pan.
 

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And this is why I don't like the pans with a drain bolt. If there's a drain bolt, there's some dummy at a shop somewhere that thinks the spec is 76 ftlbs.
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