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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi issf
I decided to get a gear splitter with 4:11 ring and pinion carrier,any one done this,getting sick of burning up the transmissions.
 

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Were I interested in a GearVendors gear splitter, it'd be hard to choose between 4.10 & 4.56.
(If they had or could make 4.30 available, 4.30 WITH NO QUESTION NO HESITATION.)

But sherlock's absolutely right. I've no memory of anyone in the ISSF ever using a GearVendors gear splitter, probably because they managed to find someone who rebuilt their 4L60E properly, AFTER at least one failed rebuild attempt in many cases.
 

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In the May & June 2005 throwback thread, the saga appears to remain unfinished.
In any case, these days, for the cost of a Gear Vendors, one can buy and install a 4L60E that can easily take as much power & torque as any atmospheric 6.7L IronBlock LT1 can dish out.
 

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What does that have to do with availability of 4.30's for our rears? They don't go into a 4L60E ;)
 

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Only that 4.30 appears to not be available from GearVendors.
Seems like an oversight on their part.
(4.30 is also a better rear axle option than 4.10 for B- & D-cars with T56.)
 

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I'm really confused here. What do you plan on putting the GV overdrive on, your 4l60e to make it an 8 speed? A GV OD won't stop your 60e from burning up if that's what you're thinking, all it does is split gears but if you're having trans issues or trans fluid overheating issues there are other reasons for it other than the gear ratios, the GV OD won't help.

If you mean you are going to use a GV overdrive on a TH400, I wouldn't do it. Build your 4l60e right or if you're making some insane power (over 700whp) then have a 4l80e built, but i'm not a huge fan of the GV OD's. The gear splitting capabilities aren't that useful in the lower gears and the final OD ratio isn't too great (.78 versus .70 of the 60e/.75 of the 80e) and there is no lockup function for the converter when using a th400 or th350 with it.
 
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OP, you have been offered different ideas and here is mine. If you want a GV go for it. They are spendy, I put one in my 88 Chev 1ton with 454 and TH400, and 4:10 rear end.....just to bring the rpm's down and pick up a bit of fuel mileage....it was more than worth it. I sold the truck to a family member about 10 years ago and seriously thought about taking the GV off and installing it in one of my Impala SS cars.
 

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I have had 3 customers do a gear vendor unit in their 94 - 96 Impala SS. I can not remember who but we specifically changed the design of our 4L60E cross member to accommodate the GV tail shaft. The 94 - 96 B & D bodies actually have 2 different mounting positions available for the transmission cross member. Stock is located on the tail shaft. But the transmission body also has a location to mount so that is where our cross member mounts to. This allows the tail shaft to be replaced with the GV tail shaft.
 

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You mentioned tired of replacing transmissions, okay how many since you have had the 4.10 gears. If you are taking it to the same place to be redone, ask them what parts are they putting in! I have had a 700R4 which is pretty much the same other than not electronic behind a 492 BBC 3/4 Chevy Pickup pulling a 40 Foot 5th wheel for two years before I damn near melted it. Yah trying to push a 20 mhp head wind, yes it had 4.10 gears in it. So to me are the parts matching what your using the trans for, I spent damn near 1500.00 in parts to make that trans work for it lasted 9 years first with SBC 383 pulling 37 foot 5th wheel that is to include when I did the BBC swap before the melt down.

Now are you still using the same trans cooler that the factor installed, if so that isn't enough cooling for the trans. Do you have a trans temp gauge, if not you should. When pulling trans temp would be at 160 to 170, this was in third gear clutch in converter engaged going 60 mhp, running about 2600 rpms, and when not pulling just above 140. Your car weight wise pushing about 4100 lbs, you should be able to keep your temp at 140 to 150 spinning 70 mph. The faster you go you will see temps rise some but, never let it above 190 to 200 for long time for then your cooking the seals in the trans. Use a good synthetic transmission fluid, that will help in heat as well as overall performance.

Gear Vendor will work behind the transmission, the thing you need to remember is when your not on the highway to disengage it, and once on highway then engage. This transmission from what I have research pressure wise need to have around 1600 to 1800 RPM's to supply good pressure for internal guts to work right. Personally I don't think your transmission is built right for I have done a few 4L60E's even in my Impala, and it has held up fine even running high speeds with putting in good parts as well as kits to make it work right. Granted it does not have 4.10's but, I have rebuilt it to hold up to 450 HP, with future plans on rebuilding the whole car with twin turbos and same trans with Mega upgrades.

Can you install a GV yes at a cost, and slower RPM's which is a plus for the motor. On the other hand are you getting the transmission work that you need to make it last even if you do get the GV, that is my question to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks ,great info,iI rebuilt the one trans that let go,i had trouble with the specs for the 3-4,it seems that finding the correct backing plate may have contributed to its demise(to tight),also the sun gear was worn and the sprag was worn to plus I didn't use a stall converter,(all new parts or like new condition) I put a used 96 unit in and so far so good but this time when I rebuild my k case m30 i will use the z pack 3-4 clutches and steels along with other quality parts.
Question:is the gv unit not totally automatic?It would be nice if i could wire it in and forget about it, am sure at some point i will not remember to turn it off in town.
 

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Thanks ,great info,iI rebuilt the one trans that let go,i had trouble with the specs for the 3-4,it seems that finding the correct backing plate may have contributed to its demise(to tight),also the sun gear was worn and the sprag was worn to plus I didn't use a stall converter,(all new parts or like new condition) I put a used 96 unit in and so far so good but this time when I rebuild my k case m30 i will use the z pack 3-4 clutches and steels along with other quality parts.
Question:is the gv unit not totally automatic?It would be nice if i could wire it in and forget about it, am sure at some point i will not remember to turn it off in town.
Personally I would stick with the 60e without the gear vendors.Sounds like you know what you are doing with rebuilding transmissions but couldn't hurt to check on one of the 4l60e builder Facebook groups or reach out to a well known 60e builder to see if they have any tips. There are guys running 1000RWHP behind 4l60e's so chances are it can handle your setup. But it sounds like you are more concerned with heat being built up from the higher RPM's of the 4:10's. I really wouldn't think that should be an issue at all. The 60e has one of the lowest OD ratios around for a 4 speed trans. If you were running into trans fluid temp issues I would think simply a better, stacked plate cooler would address that. I'd also look into possible issues with the trans causing the high temps, maybe even the convert not locking from a faulty solenoid.

I actually owned a GV OD unit back when I had a th400 in my car and was planning on using it but it started looking more and more like outdated technology to me. On a 3 speed trans, it gives you a worse overdrive ratio than any other GM 4 speed would and losing the lockup converter is a huge step backwards. Originally I had that setup because of the power it could handle, but these days there are builders making 60E's work for some of the highest HP setups and if you really need more power handling, an 80e would work for just about anything.

A GV OD on a 60e would be cool but just seems like a huge expense/more trouble than it's worth just to split your OD gear when you already have a pretty low OD ratio. You shouldn't be having any issues with 4:10's hurting the trans. Highway RPM's may be higher than one would like for a long interstate trip or something but if it were me, I'd either swap down to 3.73's or if you really needed the 4.10's for racing, just run a taller tire when you're driving long trips.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have payed for on hands experience,a education will cost me $ for sure.yea it would be nice to knock out some of the r/p shortness when decelerating the gv od would up shift just as fast and with a looser tc i dont think i would lose the lock up ether,but yeah i would be cool to have gv and with a very short prop shaft it would vibrate much less.
 
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