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Discussion Starter #1
in terms of sound quality, what would happen if i remove those foam cups the cover the 6x9's are sitting in??
 
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According to an installer, hifi repair friend of mine they don't do alot for sound but are there to keep the speakers from being forced out into the grille by air when you slam the trunk closed.

We came upon the subject when replacing the 6x9's in my 1983 caprice. The stock chipboard cups were sagging so far down that they no longer sealed with the deck so I ditched them.

Hope that helps,
Chris
 
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They are cosmetic. They have a large hole in the front of them so the trunk slamming theory does not hold any water. If you remove them there is no difference, that we have been able to detect, in the sound.
 
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It could be my imagination, but I thought I had better bass response without them. Who knows.

speaking of which, a buddy of mine told me 6x9's perform better in those 6x9 speaker boxes. I was of the opinion that 6x9's were of a freeair design so going to a small sealed enclosure would thoretically be bad. What's the deal?
 
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I'm curious about what Maelstorm is saying. Is that true about the 6x9s? What about 6.5s? Mine are all Infinity, if that matters. What does freeair mean, and why would a small enclosure be bad for it? My 6.5s in the front are enclosed in foam baffles, but I think because I made cuts on them to pull the wires through, they create some distortion. Any tips?
 
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My old car had a full cup with no holes. I didn't say the cup stopping the air force made sense but neither does dexcool, optispark ect... :D I think that may have been the object with the older style speakers and cups, but it still keeps loose crap in the trunk aka: papers, coats, plastic bags from getting up there and buzzing or frying the coil. As long as nothing contacts the speaker cones then there is no point to leaving the cups unless you like them.

Chris
 
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They serve two uses one is for better bass responce. Problem is they need to be a hard plastic to really force the air into the speaker to produce tighter bass. And they protect when slamming trunk.
 
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Did you even READ the whole thread? How can it protect from slamming the trunk when there is a BIG HOLE in the front of the styrofoam? Take the grills off of the speakers and have somebody close your trunk while you are looking at the speaker and tell me what happens. COSMETIC.
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>speaking of which, a buddy of mine told me 6x9's perform better in those 6x9 speaker boxes. I was of the opinion that 6x9's were of a freeair design so going to a small sealed enclosure would thoretically be bad. What's the deal? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Those 6x9 boxes suck. They are too small and will rob the speakers of their bass performance. The rear deck is a much better place for them. HTH
 
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I agree w/ gangsta-taxi. I installed some 6X9's in a friend's Probe a while back. I rigged up an A/B comparson by putting one speaker in a prefab box and the other in the rear deck. It was a definite waste of time, the rear deck speaker blew the box speaker out of the water as far as bass response goes. The box speaker sounded anemic at best. Looks like the speakers performed better when being used as they were designed. FYI, the speakers were approx. $50 Sony models powered by a Panasonic deck. More power and better speakers may have yielded yet more dramatic differences.

Aaron
 
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Discussion Starter #11
From the wagon world...
All sources (installers, salesmen, ETC.) tell me I'm not getting all the bass I want from my 6x9's (Polk ex693a's) due to their being located in separate, shallow, not very well sealed enclosures (factory location in a 94 buick wagon). Count yourself lucky if you have a trunk. Dynomat it and make sure it's weatherproof. If you're wiring for your own enjoyment, not competition, you can probably get by on a good head unit and quality speakers. I'm getting a sub put in and trying to talk myself out of a lot of custom fiberglass work to hold the amp, sub and 6x9's.
 
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