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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A boxed frame is heavy, cost$$ and only returns a small improvement in anything that matters. This is true if sad. BUT if you could have 90+% of any boxed frame benefit for only 2 hours of labor and 1% of the cost$$? Thank the member who hates posting but wrote me a PM. The Metal Store: M-F 8am-4pm; Order Online or Call (216) 663-0458. You must measure the C-channel carefully for easy installation but you'll buy 3/16" steel plate, cut somewhere around 3" X 5" of your car's C - channel. No need to lift the body, no issues with heat. 16 pieces will do a sedan, cost ~ $100.00 U.S. if I've got the $ conversion rate right. Then weld in half on each side roughly equally spaced. You'll alter the leverage points of the frame which now is about as strong as a 2 X 4 that long bent over a saw horse ( from roughly the distance of your wheelbase) to 14" (Like really stronger). If you are crazed you'll cry about the added weight. Each steel plate weighs a few ounces. If you are crazed you could use a frame machine for an hour to get your frame closer to spec but they might commit you. Sunday Go To Meeting Cars (or Taxi's or The Blues Mobile's) Forever. You hate this? Shut up and ignore it, you're already on the ignore list.
 

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It sounds like cutting out a bunch of coped shapes to match the inside profile of the frame for evenly spaced gusset-spreaders. Yes-no??

Just confirming for me and over 110 other guys out who've seen this.

..
You must measure the C-channel carefully for easy installation All frames are the same, within a 1/4"+- maybe. Cadys and wagons maybe a touch thicker gauge - maybe. What am I measuring on the frame, and where? Is this just to get a cardboard template?

....cut somewhere around 3" X 5" of your car's C - channel. I'm cutting on the frame? I thought we'd just be welding in fillets.

No need to lift the body, no issues with heat. 16 pieces will do a sedan,

You'll alter the leverage points of the frame which now is about as strong as a 2 X 4 that long bent over a saw horse ( from roughly the distance of your wheelbase) to 14" (Like really stronger). Ok, 8 pieces per side about 14" apart is way longer than the distance between the A-piller and the rear axle hump. What gives?? do you have us doing behind the axle too?



.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes

Make'm yourself is even cheaper than The Metal Store.

"ou must measure the C-channel carefully for easy installation All frames are the same, within a 1/4"+- maybe. Cadys and wagons maybe a touch thicker gauge - maybe. What am I measuring on the frame, and where? Is this just to get a cardboard template?"

That will work, rough sizing because your going to weld in anyway. Do not weld fuel lines/brake lines. Bad idea.

....cut somewhere around 3" X 5" of your car's C - channel. I'm cutting on the frame?
NO frame cutting! I thought we'd just be welding in fillets."
That's right! Gusset can be welded only top and bottom or at sides where lines are not an issue.

Frame thickness
Civilian Caprice is 0.100"
RMS 0.110"
WX3 0.125
FW 0.135"
 

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Discussion Starter #4
PS

"All frames are the same" you wrote.

20-22 years of bashing, flexing, cop cars bouncing on curbs, jacks used by morons, and two dozen other exceptions to the "All frames are the same". You enhance what 22 years gave you. Strong frame good. Weak frame bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
"Have IQ's ..."

about 14" apart is way longer than the distance between the A-piller and the rear axle hump. What gives?? do you have us doing behind the axle too?

That's Pillar...

No these pictures show what you do behind the axle. Little bend in the tube for the gas filler. Spot weld one side, take BIG hammer, bang into other side (Putting tension on the frame rails makes this stronger) weld both sides and done.

The C-channel's only an issue on the run of the wheelbase. So the pieces welded in @ 14" apart are only between the wheels. 8 pieces for overkill or dealing with the holes for the body bushings so sometimes one piece on either side of the hole.


"You must measure the C-channel carefully for easy installation but you'll buy 3/16" steel plate, cut somewhere around 3" X 5" of your car's C - channel."
3/16" plate cut ...not the frame. I only use English about 5% of the time now. Does it show?
 

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Copy All - And Payback's a Bitsk

That will work, rough sizing because your going to weld in anyway. Do not weld fuel lines/brake lines. Bad idea......
FTR it's "you're"

jacks used by morons,
And it's "morans" thank you very much. My hometown team SMH



Seriously, thanks for the added details. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Being as you gonna be weldin

Do the Pro-Touring F-Body frame brace right (optimal means no rattles,no broken plastic radiator from inappropriate intrusion, no added road vibration, harshness on and on)

"3/16" plate cut ...not the frame. I only use English about 5% of the time now. Does it show?" AND...
"That will work, rough sizing because your going to weld in anyway. Do not weld fuel lines/brake lines. Bad idea......"
Correct the above to weld IT in ..if you need to correct it, or corect it or co erection...
5% Wha be ya axcus?

And anyway the "That's Pillar" was supposed to evoke "That's Hedley"
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=blazing saddles hedley lamarr youtube
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Pro-Touring web site

Sway bar brace
2CF-842 $65.00
also fits 91-96 impala; Note, will not fit with hollow sway bars.

Before weld pictures of the Hellwig 1 3/8" hollow front sway bar referred to above. Pro- is right, it won't fit without the spacers (and a little wittle at the back of the brace) For those with any 1 1/4" solid front bar, or smaller, or the Hotchkis Hollow 1 7/16" front bar, or the Quickor 1 3/8" hollow front bar, you do not need the spacers. To avoid inappropriate contact with the lower radiator hose you might/might not need the wittle (it's a word in English)
Combine it with my rear frame rail brace (disparagingly referred to elsewhere as "some kinda homemade" by the pathetic and sad unworthy now consigned to the ignore list. See and DMR frame braces ( Co-Miller brainstorm in 1994 for SVI cars) and the C-channel weld ins (of course) for 95+% of a custom Progressive boxed $6000 in 1994 frame for ~2% of the cost and effort. For what it cost and the effort of the change over, that $$$$ frame was a big let down. At ~2%=big smile.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
"You Americans...

...always over dressing for the wrong occasions."

If this quote eludes you I mourn your misspent youth. Or maybe it alludes to your not misspent youth.

AND "That's Hedley"

FTR it's "you're"



And it's "morans" thank you very much. My hometown team SMH



Seriously, thanks for the added details. ;)
 

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The C-channel's only an issue on the run of the wheelbase. So the pieces welded in @ 14" apart are only between the wheels.
English and math not so good. lol. The channel section measures about 40" each side. One side is a little longer than the other. Not sure how you expect to weld in 8 pieces @ 14" apart in that 40" space. Maybe you are using metric system.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
As I already explained...

The issue with the C-channel is that the body bushings and bolts are accessed from inside the C-channel, so English hard :run on sentence here with implied ebonics for the critical, you gots to place the little pieces on both sides of the bolt holes so it be strong like odor from some forum members and the literate alread this so now I is redundant Too!
PS My PM's from dignified,intelligent forum members complain bitterly about contentious forum members who have made them unwilling to post on threads. They relate miserable exchanges where people are only looking to insult and completely ignore factual information that can keep the less experienced from costly mistakes. After being gone from here for years I thought those PM's were an exaggeration but I've learned they were not. Congratulations contentious losers, you have denied yourselves the pleasure of knowing those many forum members I have only heard from in PM's, whom have proven to be wise and worth knowing.
 

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Well that sucks... Interesting topics are always ruined by the utmost of the forum troll warriors...

Im fairly new to these B-Body's and trying to read up... makes for a real PITA for us NEWBs.
 

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Well that sucks... Interesting topics are always ruined by the utmost of the forum troll warriors...

Im fairly new to these B-Body's and trying to read up... makes for a real PITA for us NEWBs.
No worries. There are several ways to search and round up darn near all the good intl from recent exchanges and another spate of the same handling and suspension topics in 2014 where Scot provides his insights. The info from threads and responses by Scot in the past couple months come with a little more than the usual banter and sidetrips, but it's still pretty easy to winnow the chaff from the nutritious take-aways.

I'd be interested in any question you have that has not been asked and answered repeatedly already over the years (and years), but hey, anything you really can't find after a search just ask away!
 

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Its tough to find certain things via search on here (and other forums)... and apparently "the crash" seems to have taken many good things with it... because I keep coming across references to it and long lost tech articles. Parcing through all the post takes up a lot of time... something few have these days, myself included, but Im banging through it.

Im quite familiar with web forums... Im on many GM ones, Admin one, mod on a couple others, and was Admin on 2 others that are now defunct because of FB and a slowly dying hobby... the numbers of RWD American cars available for younger people to learn on and/or own are declining steadily and sharply now.

All said, Thank You for the offer of help. I will suredly be asking soon.
 
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