May 23 – June 6, 2020
These shots cover the last mockup / fit-check I did before starting the car.
Connected up the heater control valve and ran heater hose to the intake, the radiator and heater core. Used HPS 5/8” silicone heater hose and protected areas that are exposed to more heat with WISAUTO high heat fiberglass sleeving (black). The original quick disconnect heater hose connections were long gone, but I found that ACDelco makes plastic barked quick disconnects (P/N: 34000) and used those to connect to the heater core.
For intake, I used a Spectre (P/N: 9849) 4” plenum with a single stud (Spectre P/N: 4215) instead of the dual stud intake from the stock intake. I drilled a hole in the back of the plenum and threaded it for the IAT (GM P/N: 25036751). From the plenum, I used a Hiwowsport 90 degree 4” silicone hose and installed a Revotec self-sealing hose takeoff from Murray Motorsport to route a breather hose. Nice little part but very expensive for what it is. (Self-Sealing Hose Take-Off Fitting
) From there it was just a strait 4” aluminum pipe with a K&N clamp on air filter (P/N: RG-1001RD). Pictures are further down.
My fuel lines come up the passenger frame rail, convert to AN6 then are clamped where the AIR pump used to be. The feed is routed up behind the AC compressor and snakes around the EGR and TBI to connect on the driver side TBI port. The return line comes out of the TBI (on passenger side) and crosses over under the master cylinder to the fuel pressure regulator (Aeromotive P/N: 13301). The line then snakes behind the power steering pump and runs under the front of the oil pan behind the harmonic balancer. The entire engine compartment fuel system is made with Russell Performance (P/N: 630273) hose that’s wrapped in DEI titanium sleeving (P/N: 010603) and, where needed, wrapped in corrugated tubing and taped with Tesa high heat harness tape (P/N: 51036). In fact, nearly all of my electrical wiring is wrapped in this tape. It looks nice and is very good to prevent chafing.
I ran 1/0 battery cable to the starter, alternator and passenger fender junction. Also ran 1/0 ground cable from the battery to the fender ground and 2/0 ground wire from the battery to the block. Battery terminals are JL Audio (P/N: XB-BTU). They were a bit fussy to work with but the results are pretty good I think.
These pictures don’t show my vacuum lines but they are all silicone and I connected the fuel pressure regulator such that it’s vacuum referenced.
My lower radiator hose is just the standard ACDelco molded hose (P/N: 24111L). But the upper needed to be rerouted. I used a bunch of pieces of HPS 90’s and straights to make it work. Used stainless hose clamps and aluminum couplers to hold it all together. It sits pretty tight in place with zip tie holding it to one of the cooling fan brackets.
Originally, the AC compressor bracket had two brackets. One going to a stud on the intake and other going to an exhaust manifold bolt. I fabricated a new bracket going between the compressor bracket and a stud for the EGR valve. The other bracket is tied to another stud on the same bracket where the AIR pump used to be. So far they have held up.
On the alternator side, I fabricated a bracket from a bolt hole on the alternator straight down to the number one cylinder header bolt.
For AC hoses, the main hose between the compressor, condenser and dryer is available for purchase but the suction line is not. I just don’t trust the old rubber hose and so photographed the old one and fabricated a new one by welding on new crimping collars and spending way too much money for a tool to crimp them. Oh well now I can make my own AC hoses.