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Discussion Starter #1
How's it going everyone? Long story short, I'm taking everything out of my Camaro and throwing into the caprice. It's all out and ready to go in now. I'm getting ready to pull everything out of the caprice, but my problem is I have a parasitic draw in the caprice. I figured I would take care of that now before the swap. I had a draw of almost 3.5 and I found that the alternator was bad as I disconnected it and the draw went down to 1.4 but still a decent draw. I've pulled every fuse and relay. Body 2 fuse 11 under the hood is drawing, when I remove it the reading drops to .34 which I believe is normal draw (if not chime in plz). The problem I'm having is I can find nothing on that circuit, like what all runs through it, where are some good places to look? Are there any common issues on these bbodys that run with that fuse? Wouldn't most things in the interior fuse panel run through that circuit, if so why cant I find the draw pulling all those? Sorry I'm not too savvy with electrical stuff but I'm trying. So far I've had the battery charged and tested, disconnected the alternator, pulled every fuse, and relay to check (only came up with body 2 fuse 11), I've pulled the radio, pulled off the bottom bezel and checked all wiring, checked most of the grounds in that area.... I've even pulled the ashtray light, and the glove box light, trunk light, heck I pulled the whole interior lights relay out from under the dash. I am stumped. If anyone has and knowledge, or advice I would highly appreciate it. This issue has been going on for ever, I'm just getting around to fixing it for the swap. Thanks
 

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Do you have an FSM? It has the wiring diagram in it. You can find the wiring diagram in the back of the Haynes Manual as well. Either will tell you what is in the circuit. It will make finding, and checking components a lot easier.
 

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A big +1 on a FSM. It'll make EVERYTHING easier on your project. I'm not much on electrisicals either, but our cars have a rep for at least as many (or even More) shorts as any others. Maybe run out every time the temp changes drastically and measure to see if it's something variable/intermittent. Can relays stick partway? The reason I think of all this is an '80 Riv (the flimsy metal sheets with the rotting foam separator contact type design) that blasted the horn at 2AM going into Fall when it started frosting.



Also, get a friend to wiggle TS outta the wiring everywhere (even take out the seats and get a stick to poke under the dash) while you're measuring.
 

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Diagrams here:
Goldswagon


I do not have much time this morning. By memory there should be a 94/95 diagram that will help you.


That body fuse powers eight fuses in the in car fuse box. You should be able to pull them and at least isolate the draw to one fuse circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I dont have a fsm atm but maybe I can download one. Funny thing is I swear I do have the Haynes manual, idk where it is. But thanks guys. So I will try to get the manual, and zo9b4u awesome man I will check that out. Appreciate the time you guys took to try an help me, I will be messing with the old gal today. I am gonna take out the seats anyway just so I can check my floor plans considering my poor Camaro is essentialy junked now because of its floors. From what carpet I have pulled back the caprice has no rust yet. Better safe than sorry though. I will keep you fellas updated, thank you!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I manage to check the draw of each fuse. T. Sig stayed at .06, wiper stayed at like .08, but cig fuse stayed at 1.5. I pulled the fuses and still have the 1.5 draw off body 2. If I'm correct cig runs threw that fuse, and I have it disconnected and still have a draw, what could that mean?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok I was wrong. I found the draw sort of. It's not the cig fuse, I have no idea why that was showing draw off the fuse I really dont. I ran the multi meter in series on the bat ground, pulled every interior fuse and had my girlfriend watch it. I put them all in 1 by 1. Just 2 fuses have a draw. Fuse 33 (clus-chi) and fuse 34 (pass-key). The chime one not so bad I should be able to figure that out it's the passkey one that scares me. What should I do next? If anyone has a clue plz let me know. I have the door switch disconnected so I'm not sure if passkey is having one of them temp draws due to the multimeter being on the terminal, you know like waking up the pcm? If anyone could chime in I'd appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update... So with both of those fuses in it has the draw of around 1.4-1.5, fuse 34 has a draw of around .60 and fuse 33 the clus-chi has a draw of around 1.10-1.13 oddly. So I pulled the chime module (little green box under the dash) and the draw is gone off fuse 33 (clus-chi) but still on fuse 34 (pass-key). So fuse 34 is out, fuse 33 is in, and the green box is out. The car starts run good. I will be going to get the module box tomorrow if I can find it and hopfully that fixes the pass key fuse 34 drain. For anyone that wants to know, there are 2 passkey fuses fuse 34, and fuse 14. I guess the car can run along as fuse 14 is in. With how everything how it is now, it has a .34m draw which I believe is normal (correct me if I'm wrong please)
Sorry for writing so much, hopfully my messy info can help someone else in need some day. If anyone knows why fuse 34 pass-key still has a little draw pet me know please because it still has the draw even with the green box out. But thanks to everyone that is helping,I appreciate it!
 

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So I pulled the chime module (little green box under the dash) and the draw is gone off fuse 33
The chime module is what powers the courtesy light relay so if a door is open the chime module will draw some power.



I will be going to get the module box tomorrow if I can find it and hopfully that fixes the pass key fuse 34 drain.
You can not just change the PASS-KeyII module. There are 15 key pellets. The key pellet must match the module. Unless you find a 9C1(police) one that does not use a key pellet.
 

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The only thing fuse #33 powers in the PASS-Key circuit is the PASS-Key light in the dash cluster. It has no real connection to the PASS-KeyII module. I WOULD NOT mess with the PASS-KeyII module.


Many forum members have had problems with the chime module. Some replace it some have fixed it by re-soldering it.


Are you sure you do not have a problem with the glove box light and switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You can not just change the PASS-KeyII module. There are 15 key pellets. The key pellet must match the module. Unless you find a 9C1(police) one that does not use a key pellet.[/QUOTE]

Sorry I should've clarified I'm going to get the green box module tomorrow, I didn't know if the passkey fuse was pulling power if that box was shorting out. I thought I read the passkey wires run through that chime module aswell. I literally know nothing about the electronics it's so confusing, I got the manual but it's pretty hard for me to read those diagrams not gonna lie. So should I disconnect all the door switches? Or maybe all 4 switches and the chime module?
 

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Are you sure you do not have a problem with the glove box light and switch?
This would be a easy fix.


So should I disconnect all the door switches? Or maybe all 4 switches and the chime module?
This would be hard to do and not prove much.


If you can get a cheap chime module that is year correct this may be a easy fix IF it really is a problem.


With the chime module plugged in:

Do the the courtesy lights work? Check each door.
Does it chime with the key in the ignition and the driver's door open?
Does it chime with the headlights on key out of ignition, and the driver's door open?


This little computer also will warn you you have left the turn signal on for a really long time. It is also tied to the speedometer.(do not ask) It monitors seven things and controls about four. It ties into keyless entry and the twilight sentinel IF you have them.

What I was saying before is you should do your test with all the doors shut and the key out of the ignition.


If you know how you can check the inputs to the chime module with it unplugged. BUT a mistake may cause you more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This would be a easy fix.


This would be hard to do and not prove much.


If you can get a cheap chime module that is year correct this may be a easy fix IF it really is a problem.


With the chime module plugged in:

Do the the courtesy lights work? Check each door.
Does it chime with the key in the ignition and the driver's door open?
Does it chime with the headlights on key out of ignition, and the driver's door open?


This little computer also will warn you you have left the turn signal on for a really long time. It is also tied to the speedometer.(do not ask) It monitors seven things and controls about four. It ties into keyless entry and the twilight sentinel IF you have them.

What I was saying before is you should do your test with all the doors shut and the key out of the ignition.


If you know how you can check the inputs to the chime module with it unplugged. BUT a mistake may cause you more problems.
Sorry I didnt see your second reply. The glove box light and switch are disconnected aswel. Along time ago I took out the interior lamp relay because my lights popped on while I was driving. As far as the chiming noise test, and door switch lighting test, I will get some new relays and try that tomorrow. Good call, I never thought about that lights popping on issue until now. I don't intend on messing with the passkey system lol.
I never knew that green box had to be the same year thanks for the heads up, the salvage yard around me has a 94 and 95. Il try to grab the 94 one, they might let me have it for like 5$. So il do some more digging around and testing tomorrow and il let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for the help and advice.
 

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94/95/96 should work. With minor wiring differences it would be up to you to check the 95/96 diagrams to be 100% sure. I was trying to keep you away from the older cars which I was not sure of.


Along time ago I took out the interior lamp relay because my lights popped on while I was driving.
If a chime module change does not improve things you can check the door switches at the module socket to reduce your work.


I forgot to ask if you had a remote start or car alarm?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
94/95/96 should work. With minor wiring differences it would be up to you to check the 95/96 diagrams to be 100% sure. I was trying to keep you away from the older cars which I was not sure of.


If a chime module change does not improve things you can check the door switches at the module socket to reduce your work.


I forgot to ask if you had a remote start or car alarm?
Getting ready to go hit the salvage yard, il grab both of the modules they have. They told me a couple bucks so sweet on that.
This car doesnt have remote start but I did have an aftermarket alarm, I actually yanked all that out a while back, but I had alarm diagrams and all of that, and I wired everything perfect.... to my knowledge lol. I had no issues with my batt going dead for months after that though. I also just double checked all those connections, still looking good.
Great tip about checking the connections by the module rather than pulling the switches. I did pull one switch on the driver door just to check fuses easier though.
Thank you man really, it helps having help with stuff like this, I will update after trying the modules.
Say the box fixes my draw, any clue why that fuse 34 passkey fuse could be still be drawing? It's around .60 draw which I'm guessing is around .30 draw because I think 30-40 is a normal draw, or is .60 draw normal on these cars with a key off?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok so I have swapped in 2 different green modules and the draw is still the same, I also checked each door for courtesy lights and the all come on and go off within 10-15 seconds of shutting the door, the module makes the dinging sound with the key on. Looking like I got a fun one.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
(Does it chime with the key in the ignition and the driver's door open?
Does it chime with the headlights on key out of ignition, and the driver's door open?)

I forgot I had the driver door switch disconnected. So I plugged it in and checked again. All doors turn the lights on when open/off when shut except the driver door. No lights come on with that switch plugged in and no chiming sound with the key in and that driver door open, only when I turn the key to on. I figure that switch is bad, but why would it still draw even with that switch disconnected? Phew this cars trying to give me one last rodeo before I put the Camaro stuff in it lol
One more note I did disconnect every door switch and still have the draw, but I connected back the 3 remaining that work, I got a new driver one coming in to autozone tomorrow. Only like a couple bucks.
 

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I got a new driver one coming in to autozone tomorrow. Only like a couple bucks.
I hope it is the right one. The correct one has two outputs. One connects to a tan wire which goes to the key in ignition switch in the column. The second one is for a white wire that is connected to the other three door switches and runs to the chime.


No lights come on with that switch plugged in and no chiming sound with the key in and that driver door open, only when I turn the key to on.
You can ground the white wire at the driver's door switch to see if the lights respond to it. The chime working only with the key in and the ignition on(run) suggests the switch in the column that checks the ignition switch is damaged or positioned wrong.



Say the box fixes my draw, any clue why that fuse 34 passkey fuse could be still be drawing? It's around .60 draw which I'm guessing is around .30 draw because I think 30-40 is a normal draw, or is .60 draw normal on these cars with a key off?
I just checked mine. After the key was off, all the doors were closed and teh underhood light was disconnected, I waited for another 15 min and took a measurement - 330 mA. Pulling 50A BODY2 fuse (underhood box) brought it to 90 mA, pulling Air Compressor 30A (green) fuse brought it down to 20 mA.

Now, that 50A fuse circuit could be fine and will turn off say in 30 minutes. Will investigate further.
HUF
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/34-engine-problems-maintenance/1294073-something-draining-battery-what-correct-current-draw-2.html



So to be clear HUF got 330mAmp or 0.3Amps. With the BODY2 fuse out 20mA or 0.02A without air suspension.


Any chance you are confusing 0.3 with 0.03?


Several forum threads suggest 0.3Amp or 300mAmp is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I hope it is the right one. The correct one has two outputs. One connects to a tan wire which goes to the key in ignition switch in the column. The second one is for a white wire that is connected to the other three door switches and runs to the chime.


You can ground the white wire at the driver's door switch to see if the lights respond to it. The chime working only with the key in and the ignition on(run) suggests the switch in the column that checks the ignition switch is damaged or positioned wrong.




HUF
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/34-engine-problems-maintenance/1294073-something-draining-battery-what-correct-current-draw-2.html



So to be clear HUF got 330mAmp or 0.3Amps. With the BODY2 fuse out 20mA or 0.02A without air suspension.


Any chance you are confusing 0.3 with 0.03?


Several forum threads suggest 0.3Amp or 300mAmp is normal.
So im pretty sure im doing the multimeter right, im running it in series on between the ground cable and battery terminal. ( https://imgur.com/a/LTzHvyq ) heres a picture of that, and my multimeter setting. Pretty sure im doing it right, God I sure hope so I would feel slow if I screwed that up. Everything I read online suggests you dont want more than a 30-60 m.amp draw.

Thanks for the tip on grounding the door switch to see if it works, il give that a shot an maybe save a couple bucks.

So for that switch in the column, is that replaceable or do I need a new column? I have half of a column in my shed. It might have that switch.

I seen that the driver door switch has 2 prongs, I was initially gonna put the passenger switch in there to test if it's the switch or somthing else and I'm like what the heck.
 
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