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Discussion Starter #41
I logged nearly 10 hours in my Mom's car trying to find the problem with her ABS. No codes just went squirrely while coming to a dead stop every once in a while. Ford scanner finally showed that one wheel stopped showing data at very low speed. I still had to figure out if it was wire, sensor, or the ABS module.

The Opti is hard for DIY. and parts swapping is expensive.
Yeah, I've already done the part swap a while ago so I still have those parts just to make sure. Heck, I still have a maf from a truck I use to have that I found out is also the same as the f body maf. Yeah those abs can be a pain but when it comes to a issue causing it to kick in abs, 99% of the time it's the sensor. Sometimes it's a broken exciter ring on the CV axle. I've seen that on a lot of fords. Well, I can replace the distributor with a msd unit and just take it apart and loctite all the screws or save up and get the torqhead kit and upgrade the ignition to ls3.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I'm going to do one more thing before I decide to get another distributor and that is check the wires from the Opti harness to the pcm. If I don't find anything there then I'm going to suspect the optical sensor finally took a crap after 26 years
 

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Have you wiggled the grounds wires?

If you've already addressed the ICDM, the Coil, & the Vent & Vacuum Harness, then I'm at a loss, but that loss would point in the direction of electrical issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Have you wiggled the grounds wires?

If you've already addressed the ICDM, the Coil, & the Vent & Vacuum Harness, then I'm at a loss, but that loss would point in the direction of electrical issue.
What is there to address on the coil? Yes, everything has been done on it
 

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What is there to address on the coil?
When I said 'addressed', I should have said 'replaced'.

Firing off the parts cannon prematurely is never a good idea.
That said, the ICDM, Coil, and Vent & Vacuum Harness are not in the parts cannon per se - more like the parts derringer, whose ammo is far cheaper than the cannon.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
When I said 'addressed', I should have said 'replaced'.

Firing off the parts cannon prematurely is never a good idea.
That said, the ICDM, Coil, and Vent & Vacuum Harness are not in the parts cannon per se - more like the parts derringer, whose ammo is far cheaper than the cannon.
Yes true. Yes I have wiggled the ground wires and the white wire . I have replaced both connectors on the icm and coil. Right now I'm on hold because a snow storm is supposed to hit the area today and end on Tuesday unless it has been changed. I will take the wires out of the loom for the opti and see if those are bad and do a wiggle test from the harness to the pcm and see if anything happens. If wiring is good then maybe the optical sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Just to give a update, I have talked with a guy on ebay with the store name optisparksolution1 which I believe in other LT1 forums people recommend him to rebuild the Opti. From what I read, he replaces the bearing which was the issue with my factory unit. He will also clean the unit and the optical sensor and put it back together with a msd cap and rotor. After that he will test the unit with a o scope and supply voltage to the optical sensor and spin the unit while the unit sits in a special oven so he can check the health of the sensor in heat. One of the best things is that he uses a special coating to seal the distributor and to repel oil and coolant so it doesn't take out the distributor. Once it passes, he will send the unit back with a new ventilation kit with filters to replace the old one. From what it says on his description, he will refund the money if he can't fix it I believe. Also, he will refurbish the unit free afterwards for as long as you own the LT1. What I found interesting is that I told him that I got a spectra unit and swapped the sensors out and he informed me that those units leak through the bearing because the seal is not good which will allow oil to enter the opti. I have a funny feeling that is what is happening to mine because I noticed that a vent hose was off and seem to have some oil. What makes it worse is that this is a new engine and didn't see oil trails on the timing cover. I'm hoping that after I send this in, he will tell me everything is good. Once I get it back and install it and it still acts up, I will replace the harness. If it still acts up then I guess I will rewire from where the harness connect to the connector for the pcm and go all the way back to the pcm. But for right now, I'm willing to do this just to make sure the sensor is working and go from there before I decide to spend the money to convert to the ls ignition
 

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special coating to seal the distributor and to repel oil and coolant so it doesn't take out the distributor.
I bought one of those optis in '18 and after a time the sealant used hardened to the point that I had to destroy the cap to get it apart (almost like an epoxy). The opti itself worked fine but I would have preferred a silicone based sealant, much easier to clean up.
 
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Discussion Starter #49
I bought one of those optis in '18 and after a time the sealant used hardened to the point that I had to destroy the cap to get it apart (almost like an epoxy). The opti itself worked fine but I would have preferred a silicone based sealant, much easier to clean up.
I think that is what he is using now is a silicone based
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Time for a update. Finally have the funds to have the distributor rebuilt and also figured out why I was missing over a quart of oil on the new engine and why I was getting a code 42. Just to note, I am never getting a spectra distributor again. Enjoy
198146
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Finally get it all back together and code 42 is no more. But another problem arose. During the code 42 issue, I kept hearing what sounded like a lifter finally dropping down in the hole or the rocker arm moving around. I had the pcm done by Moe when the new engine was put in because of a idle issue I was having. Really don't remember hearing this noise before the pcm but I hear it now. I recorded data with a scanner I bought when I was chasing code 42 and noticed that at idle the timing was at 20-21 degrees advance and when driving around and trying to go wot the advance would jump to 31 degrees. What sucks even more is that I hear this noise on the driver side and definitely bogs the engine down when I can assume is a spark knock. I'm wondering if maybe the wire for the knock sensor on the driver side got damaged because I keep having to move it away from the header even though it is still in the wire loom with the factory heat tape still around it or because when the tune was done, it was set for a higher grade gas or something. I had about five gallons of regular gas in the tank so I went filled up with premium gas and I hope that will improve it, if not then I guess I have a issue with the valve train Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I think I found the issue. Hooked my 1320 electronics scanner and it is showing 12.9 ignition volts. Gonna check voltage at the battery to see if the alternator is putting out the same voltage or not
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Checked at the battery and alternator is putting out 13.4 volts but on the scanner it is showing it is putting out 12.9 down to 12.7 volts. Would the ignition voltage be from the coil and icm or is it from the ignition switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Went ahead and got on shoebox's site for the icm and coil test. With the coil plugged in and icm unplugged, I checked the A port and D port to ground and got 12 volts so that eliminates the coil and icm. My guess is that I will have to get a program that gives more in depth data to see what is going on. I'm thinking maybe it is the tune. I will have to record the data on this little scanner with my phone and see if anything happens when it acts up
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I let the car run for a while and then test drove it and it was running a little bad in the beginning but slowly began to improve. Towards the end of the long drive, the car did one ping and then went away. I'll continue to drive it and see if it continues to improve since the premium gas is mixed with regular gas. Hoping this is all it is
 
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