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Well I did it. Bought a near flawless 95 Fleetwood (non brougham) from the local Caddy dealer here in Gainesville FL. The old guy (91) bought it new and when he died his wife traded it(too big). The dealer printed out its history for me, he had it serviced and repaired their religously. Now for the good part, car has 53K and they let me drive off with it for $6000.00. My first LT-1 but it must run at least mid/low 13's. Can I get it there with PCM programing, exhaust, intake and fuel mods, gears and supercharger? I've been building very fast turbo buicks for years (high 10's/low 11's) but know nothing about these land yachts and how to make an LT-1 sing my song. I have always had a land yacht in my stable but always a big block Buick. I really, really like these cars but must go faster. Please steer me in the right direction, I hate doing things twice so I thought I would get the info from the guys who have already been there. Thanks for taking the time to help.
Mikey
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Congrats on the purchase! You won't regret it!

Fasstwood runs 13s and he is not supercharged. Ask him about his modifications.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
fasstwood is definately in 13s
but honestly, to each his own.. i'm almost there myself... forget looking in the fleetwood section and hit the performance section.

if you want to go fasst... you definately have some reading to do

i feel you can treat the car however you want.. like an impala? like an F-body? Vette? just do what you want, have fun and be safe

[ 12-29-2006, 02:00 AM: Message edited by: CustomCaddys ]
 
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Hey faster!!! Welcome to the Fleetwood club!!! Best mods to get you to go quicker will be 3.73's and a high stall converter... Best I ran on stock iron heads was 14.16 with my baby cam. I'm running Aluminum custom ported heads from www.eportworks.com (le2 package) with my cam with all the other bolt ons and got it down to 13.7's with a 1.87 60'. I know she still has way more with my new setup but I never had the time or the spare cash to get a proper tune on a dyno. I'm now planning to go your buick route. I'm throwing in a Turbonetics T04b turbo in the next couple of weeks... Feel free to ask questions and do searches... Basically if it applies to an Imapala SS, it will most likely work on our cars...

P.S. I ran that 13.75 @ 4800 pounds... ;)
Good luck with your new ride...
 
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sorry i got cut short earlier..

Questions.. first is 13's going to keep you happy? (just noticed you've messed with turbo 3.8's :D ..)
and also How do you want to go fast?

are you a spray guy? were you thinking forced induction maybe a supercharger kit? or be different and turbo it? or Heads/Cam like ed?

i agree, play with bolt-ons for now.. you can check out that "cheap a$$ mods" post, or you could just get the necessities... a good PCM tune = ooh i like that // one of the many intakes = sounds cool, maybe a hair faster // headers and catback = whoa, crazy sound and seems a good bit faster // 2500+ stall converter and 3.42+ gears = almost at 13's and holy crap forget that Grand National!

by then you'll have read a good bit and will probably know where You want to take it.

but yes, Welcome to the D-body my friend. it get's addicting.
 
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Thanks for the input to my questions. I will not spray! I have always run big block buicks and turbo V-6's but heve never messed with mouse motors. My current turbo which is my third currently runs 12.00's @ 115 MPH on pump gas with alky spray at 20 # boost and 11.00's @ 123 MPH on race fuel at 25 # of boost all on sticky DOT's all in a full weight car. I soft launch with my 1.85 60' times. My big block Buick Electra runs 13.8-13.9 at 97-99 MPH on pump gas and Michelin Whitewalls with a 1.9 60' with 4.10 gears and overdrive on a 2700 stall converter. It is very quick to 60 MPH. Camaros, Mustangs and the like are all looking at the taillights for a couple seconds till they finally hook and get by but not till 50-70 MPH. It is a great street car. I will be happy with 13.6-13.8's on the motor alone possibly with a supercharger. This a street car and is too heavy to mess with turbo lag, I want instant response. My turbo is too fast for the street really and I am always playing catch up with the turbo. I will always run you down by the middle-top of second gear but by then we are going way too fast for the street. So this Caddy will be a pump gas daily driver. I like 4.10's with the tall tires and overdrive because it keeps the motor on the cam where it is happy and smooth because even at 70 MPH you are only turning 2300 RPM. I need to study what you guys and (gals?) have done as I stated I do not want to R&R combinations but only do what will work for me to accomplish my goal.

Again thanks for the input. I look forward to the fun of the comraderie and input of this site.

Mikey
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Go Mikey Go!!! I'm sure you'll get to your goal with no problem... Feel free to ask when ya need help...

Off topic...

Do you use a Blow off valve with your turbo setup? I was thinking of getting the HKS SSQV for my car... From what I have heard although i have an automatic the BOV helps against compressor surge which helpsthe turbo last longer....
 
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Eddie, I am not the world's foremost authority on boost but I have been building 10-11 sec boosted cars for 15 years and would NEVER have a huffed (supercharger or turbocharger) car without a blowoff or wastegate valve. Over boost causes detonation. You won't hurt a turbocharger with overboost, the turbines will just stall and the motor will fall on its nose or backfire through the intake. That is where the problems begin. The backfire can be serious enough to lift the intake off the heads breaking it. There are four things that can happen with over boost.
1. Lift the intake off the heads, real damage.
2. Lift the heads off the block, real damage.
3. Detonation resulting in breaking pistons, real damage.
4. Blown head gaskets.

I take number 4. I never pin or o-ring my heads and block. That way the head gasket is my weak link in case of detonation. Detonation is possible even with a waste gate because of air temp and humidity changes causing cylinder pressure to change on any given boost setting. I develop 25-26 lbs. of intercooled boost and 560+ horsepower (123 MPH trap speed in a 3600# car)with stock headgaskets (one failure in seven years on the same motor). I run 8:1 compression and some like 8.5:1 for better throttle response off boost. Flawless machining of heads and block will let stock head gaskets live with no problems.
There are many wastegate/blowoff solutions but I use turbonetics products with an adjustable wastegate valve from the drivers seat to allow me to adjust for weather conditions and daily driving. I also use an SMK alky spray injector in the plenum to compensate for octane discrepincies also adjustable from the drivers seat.

www.turbonetics.com

I will find the links to SMK alcohol injection and Razor alcohol injection, both are good.

Mikey
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Eddie, One other thing I forgot is you will have to increase fuel pressure and injectors accordingly. Remember you now have positive pressure in the intake instead of negative. I run 45# of fuel pressurewith with 55# injectors at 25-26 lbs. boost ( I need to go to 60# injectors as my O-2 volts start dropping off about 50 yards from the traps).

Mikey
 
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Thanks for the Advice Mikey.

I already have the the turbonetics evolution wastegate, and I'm looking at either the HKS SSQV or the turbonetics Raptor BOV. I Just got the intercooler piping in the mail last week right after x-mas... I also have to HKS EVC-IV electronic boost controller. The last piece of the puzzle for me is the blow off valve. I guess the only real way im gonna learn is through trial and error. Hopefully not too much error!!!

Trust me you know a lot more than me on this subject and appreciate any input that you have. As far as injectors go I'm taking out my 30 pounder SVO's and going with a set of 42 pounders. I already have the a Walbro 340 pump in the tank which I think should be sufficient for my application. I'm also throwing in an Aeromotive adjustable Fuel pressure regulator to dail in the proper fuel pressure. Worse come to worse I'll throw in an additional in-line pump for more fuel...

Thanks a lot I apprecite the input...
 
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Eddie, The in tank pump will be plenty. keep the fuel pressure 15# higher than max boost to overcome manifold pressure. I ALMOST FORGOT DO NOT RUN BIG TUBE HEADERS. Too many guys run big headers and that just slows down velocity to the turbo impeller making incredible turbo lag and awful street performance. I would run 1 5/8 maybe 1 3/4 tube headers max. The header tube size is not nearly so important on huffed cars. I run the "STOCK" Buick exhust header manifolds on 62 series ball bearing turbo and am running 11.08 @ 123 MPH but they are maxed out. You do want as free an exhaust after the turbo as you can get. I would not run less than a 3" down pipe from the turbo exhaust and still make 600+ horsepower easy. Don't forget alky spray 9th injector is cheap 35-50 horsepower. I won't boost without it anymore.

Keep me posted. I really want to hear how your arrangement works out.

Mikey
 
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Here is a pic of the setup im gonna be running. Your supposed to use the stock manfold on the right side but I'm gonna be using a hooker shortie header on the right side. I'm pretty sure it is 1 3/4" primary tube.



 
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Looks good. What size turbo is that? Is it bushing or ball bearing? I would ante up for ball bearing because they last 10 times longer than bushing. I could never get a bushing shaft turbo to last longet than 12-15 months without a rebuild but my last ball bearing turbo has been in there for 8 years now. If the stock exhaust manifold is 1 5/8" I would go with that over the 1 3/4 but I don't know if the stock ones disrupt flow worse than the bigger headers would slow things down. Again I am not familier with these LT-1's and how good the original exhaust manifolds were. Stock buick turbo manifolds were good to almost 600 horsepower. The crossover pipe looks good, again do not be tempted to go big when turbocharging, remember big tubes = big turbo lag and you will not like that in a street car. You can go big after the turbo because the turbo does quiet the exhaust some.

Mikey
 
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Here is the info From the dude I bought it from.

This kit is build by turbo tech in CA. I am selling for($2000 ,best offer). the kit does NOT come with intercooler, it was damage in accident, but the intercooler and inlet pipe can be order from turbo technology for $900. The kit comes with driver side turbo manifold,cross over pipe,T-60 ball bearing 4 bolt turbine flange,Downpipe,Y-pipe with two cat- converter(system bolts to factory B-body with LT1/LT4),turbonitic EVoLUTION deltagate,42lbs fuel injectors(8),turbo heat shield,oil Lines. I pay $5975.00.
I got it from a dude on the turbobuick forum (steveX).
 
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I thought that turbo looked big (a 60 series, that's what I'm running) and it says it is a ball bearing turbo so good deal. You won't stall it in your application so I would have all the safeties. It will make all the power you can afford. Exhaust after the turbo is going to be your limiting factor. Are you going to run an oil cooler? Turbos heat up oil and you will see it get dark much sooner after a change. Now just don't get too addicted to the whistle from that thing (I did). You said you are going to use 42# injectors well 42X8=330lbs of fuel/hr. I am running 55#X6=330lbs of fuel/hr. I need bigger injectors because I am seeing an O-2 drop off 50 yards before the traps and it is not fuel pressure drop, just the injectors maxed out (11.08 @ 123 MPH). I don't know how much boost you are planning to try and develop and where you want to end up for an ET but you might consider just a little more injector if you are going for max kill.
This is going to be fun.

Mikey
 
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I have a feeling my motor ain't gonna like me much after this!!! I would like to run 8-10 pounds. I know the exhaust on the car now is crappy. I picked up a pair of hooker aerochamber nufflers and the dynomax 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent pipes. The cats that are on there will probably wind up gutted out. IMO the y pipe is the restriction on this setup. But I'm hoping it will be okay. I gotta do with what i have. I shooting for high 12's. I don't think thats too unrealistic. The car is 4800 puonds though... Hmmm... :rolleyes:
 
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You won't need an intercooler at 8-10# boost you could just run the alky spray as a safety and your 42's will be plenty. That is a big turbo for just 8-10# boost though, you might want to trade someone for a smaller one which will build boost much faster and on the street you will really appreciate that. What compression pistons are you planning on running? You have to take into consideration your cylinder pressure under boost. It takes 425 flywheel horsepower to get a 4600# car to run 12.90 and that 60 series turbo will make 600 horsepower on the right combo.

Mikey
 
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Ithought it woulda taken more HP than that. I ran a 13.75 @ 99.8mph, at 4750 lbs. Accordding to those hp calculators out there im like 369 rwhp. I figured I had to be real close to 425 flywheel hp already...

Here is the setup in my car now. I hope I remember it all...

</font>
  • 350 lt1 all prettied up decked lined bored honed</font>
  • Nodular 10/10 crank and the rotating assembly balanced...</font>
  • Keith Black Forged Pistons</font>
  • Sealed power aluminized crank and rod bearings</font>
  • melling high volume pump w/bolt on oil pick up</font>
  • Comp cam 218/224 duration 526/536 int/exh on a 114 lsa, aka cc502 cam</font>
  • Comp cam 1.6 roller rockers and hardened push rods std length</font>
  • Comp beehive valve springs</font>
  • Lloyd Eliot custom ported aluminum LT1 heads With Manley race flow valves</font>
  • F-body 3.5 inch MAF</font>
  • SVO 30 lb. injectors</font>
  • CPT level3 transmission with hardened input shaft and all the other goodies.</font>
  • BBK 52mm throttle body.</font>
I know there's more. The Compression ratio is at 9.5:1 with this setup

[ 01-04-2007, 07:30 PM: Message edited by: FASSTWOOD ]
 
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