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Nobody think of the heat exchanger in the radiator for engine oil? It's more than likely that than anything.

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Yah, some crackpot did 2 hours ago.
 

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Yah, some crackpot did 2 hours ago.
Ya know I read that and it didnt register.

Like you said and unlike the other poster, More than likely not a head gasket.

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Discussion Starter #184
Thanks for your replies.

First and foremost, the car is NOT driving bad, and by that I mean the engine “seems” fine regarding power, smoothness at idle, and does not have white smoke (burning coolant through the engine) from the exhaust. The car was very well maintained and taken car of the majority of its life as evidenced by the 20 years of dealer service records from the original owner.

What I find VERY interesting is the original damage pic I posted years ago when I first bought the car showing the damaged lower radiator support and the seized passenger side electric fan. Dollars to donuts this is NOT a blown head gasket but oil leaking into the coolant via damage or aged/corroded part in the radiator.

I will see if I can safely bypass the oil cooler to radiator line and observe if the frothy goop reappears. However I have to note that my sons driving pattern over the last 5 months (new england winter) has been very short local trips with a lot of warm up/idling. Since this is the original radiator with the previously mentioned damage, I don’t mind replacing it, giving the cooling system a flush, and oil change.

Luckily his job is less than 2 miles away and the car drives OK and doesn’t exhibit signs of serious duress. This car has never been beaten on, and has been babied most of its life until the previous owners off road adventure that damaged the rear fenders (and assumed radiator support/fan damage).

Will post back in a week or so after we get the repairs done.
 

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You already changed the oil right? I dont care if he drives the thing 4 feet to work. The bearings and pistons are not getting the lube they need if that milkshake is still in the crankcase.

You will be costing yourself a rebuild, and a lot of new parts if you continue to drive it in that state.

And a single oil change is not going to remedy that, you will need to change the oil several times in rapid succession to flush that crap out. I suggest buying cheap oil and using that as a flush mechanism. Filters too.

Coolant is loaded with abrasives, silicates and others, that will quickly deteriorate the engines useable life.

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Discussion Starter #186
Yes, oil was changed less than 100 miles ago, and I checked the stick, there’s no milk shake coming up from the oil pan. So far the symptoms are the milk shake is only on the cap and filler tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
You already changed the oil right? I dont care if he drives the thing 4 feet to work. The bearings and pistons are not getting the lube they need if that milkshake is still in the crankcase.

You will be costing yourself a rebuild, and a lot of new parts if you continue to drive it in that state.

And a single oil change is not going to remedy that, you will need to change the oil several times in rapid succession to flush that crap out. I suggest buying cheap oil and using that as a flush mechanism. Filters too.

Coolant is loaded with abrasives, silicates and others, that will quickly deteriorate the engines useable life.

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Didn’t see the rest of your reply on my iPad. Totally agree when you see crap like this in your engine that it’s serious and not be taken lightly. I will be happy to run a couple of jugs of Walmart Supertech oil through the engine AFTER replacing the radiator and flushing the cooling system. My son absolutely loves this car and I want to make sure we do everything to ensure he gets to enjoy his ride as long as possible.
 

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Coolant filter works well too. I suggest it anyway because these cars were notorious for dirty cooling systems because of the coolant debacle of the 90s and 2000s.

On mine, I just bypassed the throttle body part of the steam pipe return and ran it straight to a coolant filter setup I built. Finally got the coolant crystal clear after a couple of filters. Plus you eliminate the stupid air heating that the throttle body heater was supposed to help with in the winter. Car ran about 5% better after taking that part of the system out. Plus, made it easier to work on.

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Did you verify the condition of the PCV valve?
That looks like a lot of condensation from the short trips in the winter.
Pull the rocker cover and clean it an see what returns.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
All of the emissions stuff was replaced 2 summers ago AND you are right, lots of short trips in the winter AND my son warms up his ride for a good 5-10 minutes always to make sure the engine oil is up to temp. Thanks so much to all who replied, i'm making another post showing the latest discovery.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Latest update for all following this thread. Ordered replacement radiator, and was getting ready to drain the coolant and remove the old one, and do the reinstall later this week when my son has time off from work. So I jack up the car after taking off 'home plate' and the air intake, and go hunting for the drain valve. While under the car (now on jack stands) I locate the drain valve and then my eyes land on the lower oil cooler line fitting. The line from Full Metal Jacket from Sgt Hartman rings in my head "WHAT IS THIS MICKEY MOUSE SH*T?!"




So when the previous owner went offroading, and seized the passenger side fan by denting in the lower radiator support apparently the drivers side oil cooler line was sheared/snapped and then mickey moused with RUBBER hose on a pressured fitting. Damn this pisses me off I didn't notice it sooner. I have the ACDELCO replacement hose arriving this week from RockAuto to replace when we take care of the radiator.
 

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That does look like a hack job... BUT...

I don't think that rubber, in and of itself, is a problem. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Isn't the OEM hose made of rubber, aside from the fittings?
 

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That does look like a hack job... BUT...

I don't think that rubber, in and of itself, is a problem. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Isn't the OEM hose made of rubber, aside from the fittings?
For it to be a proper repair would entail a proper end fitting from the hard line. So barb, flared, pushloc, something for the hose to bite onto. Plus that bend is wayyy too tight for a rubber hose. Especially a hose that probably isnt designed for a bend that small. I'm not even sure they really make it for that application. Plus I can almost guarantee that is not oil and gas rated hose, so eventually it will fail, sooner than a proper rated hose.

That was a hodgepodge job if I have ever seen one. Okay for a short term fix to get you out of a spot, but that is not permanent by any means. And it really wasnt even done correctly so far as I can tell..

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