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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Camshaft/Waterpump and Optispark Seals Replace Video

Here's Goldmaster demonstrating tearing into a 96 LT1 and replacing the camshaft/waterpump and optispark seals (and everything that happens along the way), also opti inspection. A lot of good tips along the way!

It was too long for youtube so it's broken into 4 parts... links at the bottom if you want to go to youtube and see them in fullscreen:
enjoy the crappy canned music! :D


<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwDuoebEAJE>
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOGRMVLrEhE>
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyJkYVTgHzs>
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92iC9cPasYs>
 

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Thats the most informative video ive seen on the impala ss. I wish there were videos like this for every repair that has to be done on a SS.
 

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Dont mess with using a flat blade on the WP drive seal. Use a screw. Drill a small hole, Thread the screw in (I use hex self tapping screws) and the seal will pop right out in 1 minute from start to finish. No banging, No Prying.

The down side? You will put a small mark on the timing cover's aluminum surface behind the seal but it does not damage anything.
 

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Wish someone would have posted this like 2 weeks ago. LOL
 

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Really good videos, thanks for posting those :)

I've got to do some work to my ignition, 220k mi on the original opti... was just looking at part, is there no replacement rotor? Just the cover? Or is it time to replace the entire unit?
 

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Really good videos, thanks for posting those :)

I've got to do some work to my ignition, 220k mi on the original opti... was just looking at part, is there no replacement rotor? Just the cover? Or is it time to replace the entire unit?
You can buy the cap and rotor separately, but at 220K, I'd replace the whole opti.

The reason we just replaced the cap in the video is because that's all we had at the moment. We weren't really planning on doing anything with the opti as it was working fine (we were mainly just replacing the seals), but figured it would be a good idea to open it up and make sure it wasn't full of oil from the leak. It looked good when we opened it (also checked the rotor screws to make sure they were tight). But we found the the original cap had a crack in the connection for the coil wire. So I just raided my junk pile and found another used Delco cap to put back on. We cleaned up the contacts and the rotor and slapped it back together. It worked just fine :)
 

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im on the last one now, i didnt even see u posted them here i was just looking bck at the air pump delete video and started going through your other vids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We need more videos like these!!!!!:)
Glad they're helpful! Goldmaster and I are talking about doing some more - we're looking for a better location (better lights, more room) and it would be good to find some kind of sponsorship like parts manufacturers or something like that - to really do it right.:)
 

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STICKY this post if it hasn't been already. Thanks for boosting my confidence in doing this. Two thumbs up. Thanks
 

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To be honest I just dove in head first and it took me two weeks figuring out I needed this or that, these videos would have saved me a ton of time and made my mechanicing much more enjoyable.
 

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I'll be watching these when I replace my 185k opti

lol at the music.
 

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STICKIED. BTW, (tip from area51perf: ) if you don't have one of buffman's nifty tools, you can take any round smooth cylindrical object like a pen and gently massage the yellow seal until it expands enough to go around the water pump drive coupler, than just use that to install the seal. Make sure you sand the drive coupler real smooth first.

BTW, when you drive in the big opti drive seal, wrap the block of wood in a plastic grocery bag first. Othewise, when you hit it with the hammer, you will send any dirt or loose wood shavings right off the facing edge right into the engine. The same goes for any other bushings or bearings anywhere on the car (like rear axle bushings or transmission tailshaft seals).
 
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