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I didnt call them, Im in Canada, probably 3 dollars a minute to call long distance to Florida. I only emailed them and asked if they ship to Canada and havent gotten a response. I can probably have the machine repair tech guy at work fix it, hes a Pro, but I hate asking him, hes already looking at my Home Theater receiver lol
 

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I take it no one answers the phone ?

138 Palm Coast Parkway, NE, Ste 319, Palm Coast, FL 32137
Tel: 386-597-2117 Toll free fax: 1-888-572-5850


You are not the first to say that place is a ghost town.
But as you seen in the thread you can fix it manually with radio shack parts.

Only thing i disagree with Erik's post is i took the clear plastic off the cluster and was able to remove it by tilting the wheel down, and it came out without touching the lower dash, but what ever works it good.
-ALF out..
I just tried phoning them, let it ring off the hook, no answer, so I emailed them again. I might have to go to Rat Shack (called "The Source" now here in Canada) and see if I can get what I need to do this. Im driving with expired plates, its been a month and I cant renew my plates until I get an E-test, and they wont do an E-test until the Odo is fixed, they wont do it unless they can read it. :-(
 

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Wanted to thank all who have contributed to this thread before me. I finally got around to doing my odometer fix on my 96 SS today. putting it off for years. I have reviewed this thread many times over the years. With a little experience at soldering I replaced all 7 of my stepper motors in my 2004 Silverado a few months ago, with success! Today did the Impala SS. Decided to just suck up the existing solder and resolder the resisters in place. Was easy to do and I now have a working odometer! I have been guesstimating the mileage but found out I only have 103400 miles. I used a solder sucker and pencil tip on a low wattage soldering iron. Thanks to all who have walked these steps and shared their experience, truly awesome!


Big Bob:smile2:
 

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Wanted to thank all who have contributed to this thread before me. I finally got around to doing my odometer fix on my 96 SS today. putting it off for years. I have reviewed this thread many times over the years. With a little experience at soldering I replaced all 7 of my stepper motors in my 2004 Silverado a few months ago, with success! Today did the Impala SS. Decided to just suck up the existing solder and re-solder the resisters in place. Was easy to do and I now have a working odometer! I have been guesstimating the mileage but found out I only have 103400 miles. I used a solder sucker and pencil tip on a low wattage soldering iron. Thanks to all who have walked these steps and shared their experience, truly awesome!


Big Bob:smile2:
good you did not change those resistors just re-soldered them . I did this 19 yrs ago still working. I did not suck solder, insufficient solder when manufactured .

this was also a problem on GM trucks with the 4WD select switch ..
 

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96 Caprice LT1 same speedo issue

Hi all,

I am frustrated because I just read this entire thread (ok I skipped pages 10 -> teens somewhere) and I thought I would be able to fix the fading/smack it hey it's back/now it's gone for good speedometer in my '96 Caprice.

I have my car apart, gauge cluster on my kitchen table and the back of it does NOT look like anything I've seen on here. Is this only for '96 Impalas??? I thought it was for any '96, including Caprices. There are no resistors anywhere on the back of my circuit board. Super frustrated, what am I missing, please help me...

Thanks in advance,
-Brian
 

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well on this forum there are LOT OF PICTURES showing the resistor location.

as I have posted before the resistors only need to be re-soldered . each resistor is for each odometer number .. I did it in 45 min back in 1998...

possible it is a hacked vehicle you original owner ?
 

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Hi j cat, thanks for the response. Yep I've looked at lots of the pics on here showing the 3 resistors that need to be fixed/replaced/resoldered...mine has none of that. No resistors on back of gauge cluster circuit board. Or on the speedo board either for that matter. I wish it had them as it does sound like I'd be able to fix it myself then.

I am not the original owner. I highly doubt that the gauge cluster has ever been apart though.

So I'm still confused...even though my car is a '96 Caprice with the LT1 and NOT an Impala SS, it is still supposed to have these resistors on the circuit board just like the Impala SS cars do? Please clarify, thanks all.

-Brian aka zeke
 

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Hi all,

I am frustrated because I just read this entire thread (ok I skipped pages 10 -> teens somewhere) and I thought I would be able to fix the fading/smack it hey it's back/now it's gone for good speedometer in my '96 Caprice.

I have my car apart, gauge cluster on my kitchen table and the back of it does NOT look like anything I've seen on here. Is this only for '96 Impalas??? I thought it was for any '96, including Caprices. There are no resistors anywhere on the back of my circuit board. Super frustrated, what am I missing, please help me...

Thanks in advance,
-Brian

fix your settings on the forum. this thread is only 5 pages long.
-ALF out....
 

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with your explanation of the dash cluster is this a digital dash ? if so then the circuit board has fingers that need be cleaned .. using some alcohol and Q tips clean up these and contact area...
 

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IMO since I did have this issue this back in 1997 on my 1996 Impala @21K miles , under warranty and dealership said it would take a week to send out the dash indicator for repair, I just did the re-soldering ,,, that is it , just re-solder the OEM resistors..30watt soldering tool .

many have destroyed the circuit board when doing the resistor change it is stupid to do this change NOT required... GM did poor solder job ..........
 

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IMO since I did have this issue this back in 1997 on my 1996 Impala @21K miles , under warranty and dealership said it would take a week to send out the dash indicator for repair, I just did the re-soldering ,,, that is it , just re-solder the OEM resistors..30watt soldering tool .

many have destroyed the circuit board when doing the resistor change it is stupid to do this change NOT required... GM did poor solder job ..........
I did resolder and it lasted about 2 weeks( it's a DD). So that's why I just want to replace.

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Anyone have a close up of the resistor that comes with NAISSO kit? Or can tell me what the numbers are on the resistor?

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I replaced my resistors with the NAISSO kit many years ago. The instructions do not show a value of the resistor that comes in the kit other than to say it is a "high power" resistor....wtf that means IDK

It is remotely mounted to a heat sink and has wires you run to the stock location and solder then to bridge the other two holes with solder on each side
 

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I replaced my resistors with the NAISSO kit many years ago. The instructions do not show a value of the resistor that comes in the kit other than to say it is a "high power" resistor....wtf that means IDK

It is remotely mounted to a heat sink and has wires you run to the stock location and solder then to bridge the other two holes with solder on each side
Yeah that resistor looks alot like the one I posted up. I wonder

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if I had to guess the single resistor with heat sink if it matched the stock resistor x 3 that should work, IDK this stuff starts to fly well above my wheel house.

back when I did mine I could see one or two of the solder joints came up. Be it FU solder job or heat from stock resistor lifting it up IDK nor do I know if the stock resistors were any good or had fried also. I assume they were still good because I had the "fade in/out" odometer so when it worked it worked...I just did the kit from Naisso and it has been fine now for at least 10+ years.

if this helps...instructions that came with the kit:
 

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