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so you re-soldered it and it lasted 2 weeks correct ?

so that says to me a poor solder job because it did work after you soldered it.

you do soldering often ? my guess not... so practice before you do it again .. and if you do change those resisters IMO you will destroy the odometer with the posted info you described on how this all played out.

the resistors in the odo are good since they did work 2 weeks ... solder NOT !
 

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Not an electronic major but I wonder if something like this would work?
Close but not right. If you look at 1996SSGuy's pictures he seems to be connecting the three 100 Ohm resistors in parallel. This would give a value of 33 Ohms not 300 Ohms. (100+100+100=300 series) It is much harder to type the parallel equation so Google a calculator to check my math.

I replaced my resistors with the NAISSO kit many years ago. The instructions do not show a value of the resistor that comes in the kit other than to say it is a "high power" resistor....wtf that means IDK
I think it means they used a 10 Watt with a extra heat sink(black thing on the back). If you had space for a higher Wattage resistor (20W) it would be a nice level of overkill.

I am going by the pictures and have never worried about this as I have a Caprice.
 

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I was tired of resoldering the resistors and NAISSO's kit was out of the question since they never get back to you. So I built my own resistor kit and it worked!


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Pic 1 shows after I removed the old resistors. You see where the arrows are that where the copper lines broke so that's why it kept going out.

Pic 2 shows how I connected the new improved resistor. Where it's circled is where I soldered one end of the resistor then jumped it to where the arrow is. The other side of the resistor I soldered it next to the arrow connection.


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soldering job looks like you used a tool that burned up the circuit board . must use a low watt iron like 30 watts .. also tip cleaning tools / flux .. the wires you used are too big .. because of this , you should have epoxy to secure the wire to the board , so the joint will not break again or short out.
 

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soldering job looks like you used a tool that burned up the circuit board . must use a low watt iron like 30 watts .. also tip cleaning tools / flux .. the wires you used are too big .. because of this , you should have epoxy to secure the wire to the board , so the joint will not break again or short out.
The burn marks are because of the old resistors get hot not my soldering iron. Yes I hot glued the joints. You learn a lot of tricks fixing arcade machines.

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The burn marks are because of the old resistors get hot not my soldering iron. Yes I hot glued the joints. You learn a lot of tricks fixing arcade machines.

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when a run on circuit board is broken we use a solid wire soldered to fix the break. then use epoxy to cover the repair. to make the board more protected a clear sealer is used ...special for circuit boards. I just don't get how those small OEM resistors could burn the board that much and still work.. those resistors used are low watt ..
 

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Mine has been off and on for a year or more but stayed dead about 6 weeks ago. I find out when I go for Mass state inspection that it has to be on so a photo can be taken of it. I thought I was in for a big job. I had ordered the kit already over the winter but was hesitating because I didn't want to pull the whole dash apart. I read most of this post and had the cluster out in 10 min and everything looked great to start with but the joints. I resoldered the existing resisters, been soldering electrinics for a long time, put it back in for a test and it lights up fine (65,439). Fully installed and tested, inspection done the next day and I have had no issues. Still have the kit incase I have a problem later. Thanks for the info
 

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You probably should have installed the kit. Those stock resistors will burn again. It's a flaw in GM's design.
Mine has been off and on for a year or more but stayed dead about 6 weeks ago. I find out when I go for Mass state inspection that it has to be on so a photo can be taken of it. I thought I was in for a big job. I had ordered the kit already over the winter but was hesitating because I didn't want to pull the whole dash apart. I read most of this post and had the cluster out in 10 min and everything looked great to start with but the joints. I resoldered the existing resisters, been soldering electrinics for a long time, put it back in for a test and it lights up fine (65,439). Fully installed and tested, inspection done the next day and I have had no issues. Still have the kit incase I have a problem later. Thanks for the info
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You probably should have installed the kit. Those stock resistors will burn again. It's a flaw in GM's design.

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I will when the time comes, it takes no time to get in there. The car is not driven much and stored all winter, it might be next year or even the one after before it goes again. At the first sign of an issue I will swap them out.
 

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since you are experienced with soldering circuit boards and the soldering did fix it , that is what I did when my 96 Impala had 20K miles on it back in 1997...

I have been in the electronics world since 1966..

I also had to re solder the 4WD switch on my 2000 silverado another GM poor soldering job ..... look up that failure IMO 100% GM failure on that switch ,,as well as this odo solder..

Do not install those F'in resistors .. 1997-2018 no odo problems on my 96 Impala..

took 45min to solder the resistors ..I did go to dealership and it was still under warranty .. they said it would take a week to fix it !!!!!!!!!! and I could not use my Impala ... well no way I was gonna go down that road..
 

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I did mine with the kit that the Impala Superstore sold a few years back.
Used the HD heat sink type remote resistor that came in the kit, mounted away from the board lower on the speedo cluster as directed.
Also used epoxy at the solder points to hold in place.
It’s been working perfectly since.
 

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I took the 4 screws out of the cluster... but the cluster isn't budging. Does it pull straight out ? or is there another screw somewhere?
 

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I took the 4 screws out of the cluster... but the cluster isn't budging. Does it pull straight out ? or is there another screw somewhere?
Just pull it straight out. In the back it's plugged into the dash.

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The 2 little light bulbs missing from the top. Did anyone ever light them up ?? All you need is sockets, and bulbs...
 

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I had my 94 impala ss guage cluster sent off to get fixed and I got it back and the digital part still doesn't work and I don't know what else to check
 

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what part was supposed to be fixed?
 
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