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OK, I tried the resistor fix over the weekend and did not succeed since the traces were messed up. I am going to pull the cluster again and try bypassing the traces. Is it as simple as connecting the resistor directly to the two points shown in the attached image and jumping to the third point that the red wire goes to? That does seem to be the case based on the below post.

Assuming yes, any tips or suggestions and what gauge wire should I use for the jumper?

Thanks.

1clean99, i'm using a pic posted by 1996ssguy on page 3 of this thread.
although he used 3 resistors the connections are the same. notice in the pic the 2 points he connected to in the row of points at the bottom. try connecting there AND be sure to add a wire like the red one over to the points shown. Must have continuity between the 3 points for everything to work correctly. Hope the helps and you get it fixed.
 

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I know its been 20 years since this issue was 100% failure but I just cannot believe how people can F up such a simple GM screw up !!!

Having had this on my 1996 @20K miles I did the fix in 45 min ............
got out my 25watt soldering IRON with small sized flux wire solder and simply re-soldered all those resistors that GM put in ..

THE ISSUE WAS JUST A HALF AZZ SOLDERING JOB !

NO you do not need bigger resistors just not the fix. 18 yrs now my 96 odometer works perfect...
 

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That's completely unhelpful, but thanks.
 

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I posted pics a couple pages back on how I used a remotely mounted resistor. I soldered wires to connect the traces and then other wires to the resistor.

I think I used solid 16 gauge at the traces and 16 or 14 stranded wire to the resistor.
 

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Thanks. If I'm following everything correctly, it should work to just bypass the pat of the traces that goes around the hole in the board, no?
 

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its been so long I don't remember all the details.
you have to make sure all the trace inputs om either side of the resistors are all included in the soldering.
maybe post closeup pics of both sides of your board.
 

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Thanks. The cluster is installed right now. I'll pull it again this weekend and see how I do. I can post pics then.
 

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That's completely unhelpful, but thanks.
my post was NOT to help YOU since this is already damaged pretty bad.

Hopefully those with this will NOT change or modify this odometer circuit that is why I posted my response in this GM defective soldering issue.

all that's needed is re-soldering of the OEM resistors
 

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That's all that YOU needed to do. Others may need more, apparently, including me.
 

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Just pulled my 96 Odometer and re-soldered the 3 resistors, re-installed and it now works. Less then thirty minutes for the hold job.
 

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That's all that YOU needed to do. Others may need more, apparently, including me.
the issue you have is someone screwed up the board.

so to add to those with these problems only use a 25watt soldering iron not more than 25 watts.. also only use the rosin core solder with a very small diameter less than 1/16th inch ..

using some solder wick helps if you slobber too much solder all over. practice soldering if needed on some old broken electronic circuit boards.

good luck..

when my 1996 started failing under warranty 2 yrs old 20K miles the dealer ship stated it will take a WEEK !

reason is DEALERSHIP TECHS DO NOT DO SOLDERING !!!
Like I stated before 45 min done.. That was the first time I took the dash display off ..
I was lucky to be on a forum where these issues were discussed ..
 

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My Odometer is now working...Thank you !

I followed these solder 3pcs 100 ohm resistors in parallel & it is now working.
when it worked it reads near 100,000 kms ! Am so happy now..but sorry i do not
know how to send the pix taken..big Thanx !
 

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Soldering in the resistor and jumper wire per above worked. Basically, it just cuts out the part of the traces that run around the hole where the resistors were wired in previously. One kind of weird thing is the way the odometer looks now. See pic below. Any thoughts about why? Is it something electrical or is it light bleeding over from somewhere else in the cluster? Thanks.

 

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Anybody?
 

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I think you either missed a trace or added one in thats not part of the circuit.

looking at this old pic of mine, it looks like I tied the three right side oem risistors traces together and bypassed the other side with wires.
I remember I used small wire for that, probably 18 or 20 gauge.


 

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I think I know exactly what I did looking at the pictures again. I think I jumped the wrong side of the resistor circuit. ****.
 

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So, uh, yeah. I jumped the wrong side. Fixed the jumper and lo and behold - all good.


What a maroon.
 

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Just to wrap this up for myself, and to answer my own question from earlier, yes, it is as simple that. By soldering the replacement resistor(s) so that it bridges the two points shown in the picture quoted below and running a jumper as shown to the third point, you are effectively bypassing (by re-creating with new wire) the damaged traces that the original resistors were soldered to. If you spend a few minutes looking at the traces before you get started, either on your own cluster or in some of the pictures in this thread, you can see where they run and why this works. If your traces aren't damaged, it really would be much easier to just redo the existing solder joints.

A few notes based on my experience:

  • I don't see how you can get the cluster out without dropping the lower dash. I tried and certainly couldn't. Dropping the lower dash takes five minutes (OK, 15 if you haven't done it lately) and saves a lot of frustration.
  • Soldering the resistor and the jumper wire takes at least three hands and I also needed magnification. I bought an inexpensive soldering station from Amazon with a lighted magnifier and a couple of arms with alligator clips to hold the wires in place. Well worth it and I don't think I could have done it without it.
  • A decent soldering iron with a very fine tip is a must, in my view.
  • A solder sucker is cheap and really helpful to clean things up.
  • I bought a pack of pre-made jumper wires from RadioShack. The pack cost something like $6.00, has a bunch of jumpers in varying lengths and made life easier for me. If I had some wire in the right gauge lying around (door bell wire, maybe) that would have been cheaper and worked just as well but the pre-made jumpers are easier to work with because they are the right size and stiff enough to be easy to place where you want them.
Hopefully some of this will help the next person.

OK, I tried the resistor fix over the weekend and did not succeed since the traces were messed up. I am going to pull the cluster again and try bypassing the traces. Is it as simple as connecting the resistor directly to the two points shown in the attached image and jumping to the third point that the red wire goes to? That does seem to be the case based on the below post.

Assuming yes, any tips or suggestions and what gauge wire should I use for the jumper?

Thanks.



 

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Does the NAISSO place still sell this fix? Ive tried contacting them and there is no response. I have to get an E-Test to renew my plates, and they wont do it unless the Odometer can be read. :-(
 

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Does the NAISSO place still sell this fix? Ive tried contacting them and there is no response. I have to get an E-Test to renew my plates, and they wont do it unless the Odometer can be read. :-(
I take it no one answers the phone ?

138 Palm Coast Parkway, NE, Ste 319, Palm Coast, FL 32137
Tel: 386-597-2117 Toll free fax: 1-888-572-5850


You are not the first to say that place is a ghost town.
But as you seen in the thread you can fix it manually with radio shack parts.

Only thing i disagree with Erik's post is i took the clear plastic off the cluster and was able to remove it by tilting the wheel down, and it came out without touching the lower dash, but what ever works it good.
-ALF out..
 
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