What happens when you remove the module from under the dash? Can you live with it?
96 Impala SS Chime Module Failure?
Recently, I got my hands on another Impala SS, this time a '96. It's given me issues that I have never dealt with before. My main issue right now is that the previous owner took all of the bulbs out in the interior, so when I went in to replace them, the lights would not turn off after closing the door. In addition, the chime "ding" does not turn off when the door is closed. So, interior lights stay on and the door chime continues to sound off. I went through a lot of previous threads and the most recommended step was to remove the green chime module box under the dash and clean it. I did so and nothing. I checked all fuses on the side of the dash and none of them were blown. Is this even an issue with the chime module anymore? My fear is that a wire might have chafed somewhere or the previous owner(s) did some electrical "work" and accidentally messed it all up. I will say it is an electrical nightmare under the dash so it would not be far-fetched to say they messed up some wires.
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Probably one of your door switches. Start there first.
Problem stays the same unfortunately, except with no chime. I guess it wouldn’t be the worst idea if it’s absolutely necessary to run it that way. My only problem would be interior lights as I do need them and the only way of them working right now is plugging in the fuse and unplugging when I don’t need them.What happens when you remove the module from under the dash? Can you live with it?
Okay I’ll be sure to check, thanks.Probably one of your door switches. Start there first.
FYI on how this circuit works.
The door switches have one connector each. (driver's door has two) This means the switch connects the wire to ground through the car body.
To test if one of the switches is "stuck on" or if a wire has contacted a ground one can check for a negative(ground) signal at A11 of the chime (audible warning) module. GoldSSWagon's diagrams show A11 has the white wire (same as doors) going to it. My 1994 diagram shows blue/white. Connect a test light to a positive power point and then probe the A11 contact to see if this circuit is always grounded or responds to the doors opening or closing.
If the A11 is always grounded you have to find out why. One way is to remove the door switches and retest. Removing a door switch needs to be done with care because the connector may pull off the switch. This is the common cause of the lights staying on. The connector comes off the switch and then grounds to the body.
If the door switch circuit is working checking the chime"s A10 (dark blue) output. It grounds B1 of the relay. Again it may not be the chime but a grounded dark blue wire. If the relay is on with the chime unplugged check the wire.
To check the relay you can unplug it and check for a ground on the B1. You may be able to feel the relay click on and off as it is unplugged and the lights should go off and on. If the relay is removed and the lights stay on see my first suggestion about the dimmer knob and the light circuit being grounded out.
The only way to do this work is to work is either work with the doors all closed which is next to impossible or carefully remove the driver's door switch. It has two contacts, one for the lights and one for the key chime. With care remove the switch and tape each contact so it cannot touch anything AND make sure it cannot pull itself through the door switch hole. With the switch removed there is a reduced risk of paint or contact damage if the door is accidentally closed.
Diagrams:
The instrument panel dimmer knob overrides the chime control and the interior lamp relay by grounding the light circuit directly. So If the lights stay on with the chime and relay unplugged the problem may be at the headlight switch or any point in the light circuit that has become grounded.remove the green chime module box under the dash and clean it. I did so and nothing.
The door switches have one connector each. (driver's door has two) This means the switch connects the wire to ground through the car body.
To test if one of the switches is "stuck on" or if a wire has contacted a ground one can check for a negative(ground) signal at A11 of the chime (audible warning) module. GoldSSWagon's diagrams show A11 has the white wire (same as doors) going to it. My 1994 diagram shows blue/white. Connect a test light to a positive power point and then probe the A11 contact to see if this circuit is always grounded or responds to the doors opening or closing.
If the A11 is always grounded you have to find out why. One way is to remove the door switches and retest. Removing a door switch needs to be done with care because the connector may pull off the switch. This is the common cause of the lights staying on. The connector comes off the switch and then grounds to the body.
If the door switch circuit is working checking the chime"s A10 (dark blue) output. It grounds B1 of the relay. Again it may not be the chime but a grounded dark blue wire. If the relay is on with the chime unplugged check the wire.
To check the relay you can unplug it and check for a ground on the B1. You may be able to feel the relay click on and off as it is unplugged and the lights should go off and on. If the relay is removed and the lights stay on see my first suggestion about the dimmer knob and the light circuit being grounded out.
The only way to do this work is to work is either work with the doors all closed which is next to impossible or carefully remove the driver's door switch. It has two contacts, one for the lights and one for the key chime. With care remove the switch and tape each contact so it cannot touch anything AND make sure it cannot pull itself through the door switch hole. With the switch removed there is a reduced risk of paint or contact damage if the door is accidentally closed.
Diagrams:
I have a chime module I'd be willing to part with for $50 shipped. The issue may be the same if the underlying problem is only concealed by removing the module. Which interrupts these circuits. Or, it could be the module itself.
Thank you! I will be testing this very soon, the diagrams are a huge help!!FYI on how this circuit works.
The instrument panel dimmer knob overrides the chime control and the interior lamp relay by grounding the light circuit directly. So If the lights stay on with the chime and relay unplugged the problem may be at the headlight switch or any point in the light circuit that has become grounded.
The door switches have one connector each. (driver's door has two) This means the switch connects the wire to ground through the car body.
To test if one of the switches is "stuck on" or if a wire has contacted a ground one can check for a negative(ground) signal at A11 of the chime (audible warning) module. GoldSSWagon's diagrams show A11 has the white wire (same as doors) going to it. My 1994 diagram shows blue/white. Connect a test light to a positive power point and then probe the A11 contact to see if this circuit is always grounded or responds to the doors opening or closing.
If the A11 is always grounded you have to find out why. One way is to remove the door switches and retest. Removing a door switch needs to be done with care because the connector may pull off the switch. This is the common cause of the lights staying on. The connector comes off the switch and then grounds to the body.
If the door switch circuit is working checking the chime"s A10 (dark blue) output. It grounds B1 of the relay. Again it may not be the chime but a grounded dark blue wire. If the relay is on with the chime unplugged check the wire.
To check the relay you can unplug it and check for a ground on the B1. You may be able to feel the relay click on and off as it is unplugged and the lights should go off and on. If the relay is removed and the lights stay on see my first suggestion about the dimmer knob and the light circuit being grounded out.
The only way to do this work is to work is either work with the doors all closed which is next to impossible or carefully remove the driver's door switch. It has two contacts, one for the lights and one for the key chime. With care remove the switch and tape each contact so it cannot touch anything AND make sure it cannot pull itself through the door switch hole. With the switch removed there is a reduced risk of paint or contact damage if the door is accidentally closed.
Diagrams:
Sometimes in my job, I need to ask incredibly obvious questions, so please do not shoot me.
For the interior lights, is the interior light switch in the 'on' position?
For the interior lights, is the interior light switch in the 'on' position?
easiest and fast check is to just swap in a known good chime box. on your 96 ss it'll be a green box located just above the turn signal/4 way flashers up under dash next to parking brake. The chime box has a small black clip on top, holding it in place.I lift up the black clip with a finger,then pull out at same time. Pic here from a harness I pulled.
Jim
Jim
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Don't bother with a new chime module if there's a wiring problem. Pull the module and check for ground signal at A11 shown in the diagram above. If you get ground there (all doors shut), there's a wiring problem. A meter or test light is all you need to verify this.
Then pull all of the door switches one by one. Once unscrewed, unplugged, and taped off, they cannot ground. Then see if the lights still on?
Then I'd be looking on the driver's side floor board and under the carpet. It's pretty easy to trace out the plain white wire. Seen it get smashed or pinched there, etc. Had a wagon one time with the opposite problem. No interior lights. The white wire was smashed there.
I'd also repeat tests with all bulbs removed. Weird things can happen if a hot lead gets cut and shorted to ground. For example, aftermarket speaker installer messing with the door, runs sheet metal screws through the door light wiring. The screw cuts the hot side of the wire and grounds it at the same time. Then all of the other bulbs could find a ground path through that one bulb. Ask me how I know. This is the kind of stuff that really trips up people into thinking wiring is voodoo. But it's really just a matter of tracing everything and using the process of elimination.
Then pull all of the door switches one by one. Once unscrewed, unplugged, and taped off, they cannot ground. Then see if the lights still on?
Then I'd be looking on the driver's side floor board and under the carpet. It's pretty easy to trace out the plain white wire. Seen it get smashed or pinched there, etc. Had a wagon one time with the opposite problem. No interior lights. The white wire was smashed there.
I'd also repeat tests with all bulbs removed. Weird things can happen if a hot lead gets cut and shorted to ground. For example, aftermarket speaker installer messing with the door, runs sheet metal screws through the door light wiring. The screw cuts the hot side of the wire and grounds it at the same time. Then all of the other bulbs could find a ground path through that one bulb. Ask me how I know. This is the kind of stuff that really trips up people into thinking wiring is voodoo. But it's really just a matter of tracing everything and using the process of elimination.
Yes, it is on. I messed with the switches and put them in the same exact position as my '95 and once that did not work, I knew something else was wrong.Sometimes in my job, I need to ask incredibly obvious questions, so please do not shoot me.
For the interior lights, is the interior light switch in the 'on' position?
Hypothetically speaking, should the wire be pinched or damaged, what is the best route to fix it? I have never done any electrical work so I would be lying if I said I wasn't intimated.Don't bother with a new chime module if there's a wiring problem. Pull the module and check for ground signal at A11 shown in the diagram above. If you get ground there (all doors shut), there's a wiring problem. A meter or test light is all you need to verify this.
Then pull all of the door switches one by one. Once unscrewed, unplugged, and taped off, they cannot ground. Then see if the lights still on?
Then I'd be looking on the driver's side floor board and under the carpet. It's pretty easy to trace out the plain white wire. Seen it get smashed or pinched there, etc. Had a wagon one time with the opposite problem. No interior lights. The white wire was smashed there.
I'd also repeat tests with all bulbs removed. Weird things can happen if a hot lead gets cut and shorted to ground. For example, aftermarket speaker installer messing with the door, runs sheet metal screws through the door light wiring. The screw cuts the hot side of the wire and grounds it at the same time. Then all of the other bulbs could find a ground path through that one bulb. Ask me how I know. This is the kind of stuff that really trips up people into thinking wiring is voodoo. But it's really just a matter of tracing everything and using the process of elimination.
Hypothetically, you could just cut the wire to stop the chiming and lights staying on. Then you can work on tracking down the pinch.
Um... on?Yes, it is on. I messed with the switches and put them in the same exact position as my '95 and once that did not work, I knew something else was wrong.
Dial the left thumbwheel knob up as far as it will go. After feeling a click or detent, that's the interior lights "on" position.
Make sure it's dialed down off the detent. For example. make sure the dash lights are at about 1/2 intensity at night with headlights on. As the same knob controls both.
Might be hard to teach or mentor a guy over a forum.Hypothetically speaking, should the wire be pinched or damaged, what is the best route to fix it? I have never done any electrical work so I would be lying if I said I wasn't intimated.
What I would do is get a 12V test light probe (incandescent style). Cheap from Harbor Freight. Or Amazon, etc.
Connect the alligator clip to a 12V+ source. And that's where it gets tricky. I naturally know where I could get a few sources. Like the lighter plug or the fuse box. Half plugged fuse, light socket, etc. But now I'd need to explain to you how to make an interface for one of those options where I just have that stuff laying around. I mean you could just run a really long piece of wire from the + on the battery. Get creative. Maybe I will consider making a YouTube video about this to get you started.
Once you have the light hooked up, touching the metal tip to some of the exposed metal under the dash should cause it to light. That way you know it's working.
Next you will need to unplug the chime module and probe the A11 socket. With doors closed (yeah fun that's why I said to pull the switch and tape it off, LOL).
If the light comes on when probing A11, then it's a door wiring issue. Stop here. This fix may be over your head because now we need to find and isolate wiring in the harnesses.
If no ground at A11, it's a chime module or relay issue. I've never heard of a chime module blowing up in this way. Relays can stick though. Have you tried pulling the relay yet?
The chime module keeps dinging as long as a the key is in, correct? It's not dinging with the key out?
Once we do those additional steps, we will know where to go from here.
I'm all for you learning how to navigate this, but as a complete beginner, at some point you may need to take it to a shop that's really good at electrical diagnosis. Not all are. More shops need to be like the "Watch Wes Work" YouTube channel. He never gives up.
Yes correct, with key in, it dings, and without, it does not. I actually took a look at the other door jamb switches around the car and on my 95 and realized the jamb switch was pushed in too far where the door does not make contact with it. I had ordered an AC Delco replacement since it was very cheap, and that fixed my dinging issue. There is no sound even if the key is in and the door is closed. Now, that narrows the issue down because my lights are staying on.Might be hard to teach or mentor a guy over a forum.
What I would do is get a 12V test light probe (incandescent style). Cheap from Harbor Freight. Or Amazon, etc.
Connect the alligator clip to a 12V+ source. And that's where it gets tricky. I naturally know where I could get a few sources. Like the lighter plug or the fuse box. Half plugged fuse, light socket, etc. But now I'd need to explain to you how to make an interface for one of those options where I just have that stuff laying around. I mean you could just run a really long piece of wire from the + on the battery. Get creative. Maybe I will consider making a YouTube video about this to get you started.
Once you have the light hooked up, touching the metal tip to some of the exposed metal under the dash should cause it to light. That way you know it's working.
Next you will need to unplug the chime module and probe the A11 socket. With doors closed (yeah fun that's why I said to pull the switch and tape it off, LOL).
If the light comes on when probing A11, then it's a door wiring issue. Stop here. This fix may be over your head because now we need to find and isolate wiring in the harnesses.
If no ground at A11, it's a chime module or relay issue. I've never heard of a chime module blowing up in this way. Relays can stick though. Have you tried pulling the relay yet?
The chime module keeps dinging as long as a the key is in, correct? It's not dinging with the key out?
Once we do those additional steps, we will know where to go from here.
I'm all for you learning how to navigate this, but as a complete beginner, at some point you may need to take it to a shop that's really good at electrical diagnosis. Not all are. More shops need to be like the "Watch Wes Work" YouTube channel. He never gives up.
My bad, I realized I read it too fast. The switches are not in the 'on' position. They are dialed low and not up to where they would stay on.Um... on?
Dial the left thumbwheel knob up as far as it will go. After feeling a click or detent, that's the interior lights "on" position.
Make sure it's dialed down off the detent. For example. make sure the dash lights are at about 1/2 intensity at night with headlights on. As the same knob controls both.
The switches open when the door is closed. If they are screwed in too far, then the door will not open them when it's closed.
Been a while since I looked at the plungers on my car.
Are they not the self-adjusting type GM has used for years ?
Goes in tall and gets adjusted first time you close the door.
Can " reset " if not seized .
Are they not the self-adjusting type GM has used for years ?
Goes in tall and gets adjusted first time you close the door.
Can " reset " if not seized .
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