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Discussion Starter #1
check engine soon light when on then noticed my temp. rising. after 5 miles on the freeway i made it to work. Car was smoking. Lifted up the hood and I had antifreeze everywhere especially on the passanger side. Had the car towed and notice the Tee(heater valve bypass) was broken. Hopefully this is all that is wrong with the car. did a search on the forum and many members prefer a brass or metal Tee than a plastic one from the dealer(or aftermarket). did not find much info. on the parts to make a Tee. Any of you guys know which parts with part # I need to make a Tee? Also which water hoses should I replace since im here replacing this Tee? Im planning to replace all water hoses if posibble. Need to know which ones. Thanks OH!!! my 96 has 94000 miles. any other parts I should replace in this area or any area in the car. Preventive maintanance. Thanks
 

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Mike at Hamilton Chevrolet

Get in touch with Mike at Hamilton Chevrolet.

http://stores.ebay.com/hamiltonchevrolet/

I had the same problem with my '94 Roadmaster Wagon. My local Chevy dealership said the "Tee" was not available as a separate part and I would have to buy the complete hose assembly at over $150.00 for just the heater hose. If I recall correctly, Mike has the replacement factory tee part for less than $20.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heater-Hose-Tee-Fitting-Impala-SS-12522867-LT1-Caprice-9C1-Roadmaster-1994-1996-/370435929217?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item563fb3b481

You should be able to find him in the Vendor section, or go to Ebay and search for Hamilton Chevrolet. I have bought many parts (steering knuckles, fuel pumps, oil & trans cooler hoses, etc.) from Mike and always been pleased with the sale.
 

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Get in touch with Mike at Hamilton Chevrolet.

http://stores.ebay.com/hamiltonchevrolet/

I had the same problem with my '94 Roadmaster Wagon. My local Chevy dealership said the "Tee" was not available as a separate part and I would have to buy the complete hose assembly at over $150.00 for just the heater hose. If I recall correctly, Mike has the replacement factory tee part for less than $20.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heater-Hose-Tee-Fitting-Impala-SS-12522867-LT1-Caprice-9C1-Roadmaster-1994-1996-/370435929217?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item563fb3b481

You should be able to find him in the Vendor section, or go to Ebay and search for Hamilton Chevrolet. I have bought many parts (steering knuckles, fuel pumps, oil & trans cooler hoses, etc.) from Mike and always been pleased with the sale.
Thanks for the plug. We do have a pile of the tee fittings in stock so if you wish to purchase one the above link is the right one. We also have both sections of the heater hoses in stock as well. Thanks.

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
 

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You'll also want to replace the heater flow restrictor. It's also plastic and can get brittle with age. It's the black plastic piece on the other heater hose, generally right under the Tee.
 

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You'll also want to replace the heater flow restrictor. It's also plastic and can get brittle with age. It's the black plastic piece on the other heater hose, generally right under the Tee.
Opps I forgot to mention that one as well and we carry it also by itself or if you buy the heater hose assembly it comes already attached as does the tee fitting on the other heater hose assembly.

Mike--Hamilton Chevy
 

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Caddy

if your hoses, and associated plastic parts on them, are original you should change all your hoses as they are 19 years old.

96 had Dexcool which was GM's answer to "extended life" coolant supposedly to last 5 years or 100k mi. There are reports that Dexcool is harder on plastic parts which may have also contributed to your plastic T failure
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hoses

thanks BALLSS OK so which hoses do I get and how many heater/water hoses do I need? I just ordered the bleeder valve from the guy who sells these on the forum. I should get this bleeder valve by this Friday. I have time to gather all my parts I need for the replacements if I get the info. on time. I just recently replaced my radiator and the upper and lower hoses(7 months ago). Does anyone have a diagram with part# I need for the replacement. Thank You very much. Im also up for my opti replacement and wires. I know I should replace the water pump as well(replaced 4 years ago with a GMB water pump). I'm following the new thread here with the ac delco pumps being made in china. I should stick with another gmb water pump or maybe get the oreillys pump. A local radiator cooling specialized shop has had great experience with oreillys water pumps. Unless I get a great deal on a NEW pump, I might just invest a little more on the electrical water pump that is made here in the U.S.A.(same electrical pump many forum members upgrade to. What do you guys think?
 

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Caddy

if your current WP does not leak...no reason to replace it. If it does, than yes and also pull Opti to inspect inside for any coolant contamination. At that point if the cap & rotor have more than 75k mi on them than replace with a quality cap/rotor kit. Many, including me, use the MSD cap/rotor

Once you remove WP inspect spline coupler for wear including teeth on WP drive gear. clean/grease inside of coupler and install new "O" rings on WP drive spline shaft & wp drive spline. These are included in the FelPro TC gasket/seal kit for about $12. The WP drive seal is a likely suspect to start leaking after a WP swap so many chose to replace it during this swap. It is also included in the TC gasket set.

Get yourself a Haynes service book for refrence of repair procedures.

Mike offers the hoses & plastic restrictor & "T" through the ebay links.
 
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