[shakenfake]

First drive and it is a lot of fun. Still sucks about the quietness about it though, needs a muffler or something since my power steering pump is louder than it the car lol

P0135 code popped today though. I figured disabling the heater codes on the O2s would be part of the tune, I am assuming this means I need a new O2 sensor though?

Trans lines are bent and manifold bolts tightened back up. Rear china wall seems to be holding the oil back so I’ll call that a success. Too bad the rear main is just leaking like a sieve. I don’t want topull the trans but it is irritating the hell out of me.

 

[95wagon]

.

 

[shakenfake]

It’s the heater circuit. I was under the impression that the heater just brought it up to temp sooner for emissions purposes.

I have heater codes disabled in my truck.

 

[95wagon]

.

 

[shakenfake]

It’s in stock location just about.
I see no issue with ignoring it if you let your car warm up. I may ask Solomon about it and possibly send in the computer to remove them.

Edit: The sensor is still working but it is just taking longer to warm up since the heater does not work. I am willing to bet it is maybe 30 seconds longer depending on the outside temperature. So what? It still goes into closed loop.
I cleared it and started the car 3 or 4 more times and no code.

 

[95wagon]

.

 

[shakenfake]

Why comment then?

 

[1slow96]

Why disable the heater circuit on a heated O2 sensor to begin with?
If there were some advantage to doing this ,then we would have certainly heard about it by now...

 

[95wagon]

.

 

[shakenfake]

@1slow96 It’s not about advantages/disadvantages and it isn’t about disabling the circuit. It’s just disabling the code. It is something extremely common in the LS world. The only thing the heater does is heat the O2 sensor up faster than the exhaust would naturally do so that it can enter closed loop sooner.

@95wagon I still don’t understand what you are trying to say here. How is that related to an O2 sensor heater that only operates on cold conditions?

I guess this is clearly not something that is common in Impala world. I will create a thread.

 

[95wagon]

.

 

[1slow96]

Last I checked ,mine doesn't go into "closed loop" operation until coolant temps reach 150 degrees.

 

[95wagon]

Time and temperature based.
Most tuners will dabble in these tables.
I found you can get into closed loop much quicker , especially hot restarts.

 

[shakenfake]

Awwwww yeah

 

[shakenfake]

 

[nsaness]

Who is going to do your machine work? Are you building this yourself?

 

[shakenfake]

Not sure yet who is doing the machine work.
Yes I will be building this myself.

 

[nsaness]

Not sure yet who is doing the machine work.
Yes I will be building this myself.

Very cool. I assume you will take it slow and do things as you can. For picking parts and assembly; I am sure you have that handled well.
My comment is that bad machine work will shorten the life of the best builds, so choose well and don't pinch pennies there. (admittedly, I am a tool and die maker so I am biased)

Have you decided what you are going to build yet? What is your goal for the engine: will it be daily driver oriented? Are you looking for low rpm torque or high rpm hp? Who's heads are you planning to use: Lloyd Elliot, Advanced Induction, or AFR? Just curious, as we all come from different experiences and have different engine priorities/goals

 

[shakenfake]

Yes machine work is key. This will take a while so no rush on anything

Leaning towards 383
Medium daily. I would like to be able to jump in and daily if needed. No hesitation to drive cross country. But no not a true daily.
Low RPM torque
AFR I think is my head of choice but I will need to do some more digging

Open to comments and suggestions of course!

 

[nsaness]

Let me start by saying I am no guru or expert on cars, let alone LT1’s. I do comment based on my experiences and I try to mention things I wish I had known before I spent money. In my experience I have only ever commissioned two gen 2 LT1 builds (a 383 in 1997 and a 396 in 2003). This means that even if I had knowledge of value, it is probably expired by now. With that caveat, I still wanted to comment with my OPINIONS:

If you don’t “need“ a 396, I would recommend you stay with a 383 for your home build. Machining gets more critical, and clearancing becomes more fussy on a 396 build.
As far as money, moving from 383 to 396 is going to add about +/-$1500 to the build cost. For me, it was more like $2K+, but that’s another story. For that extra $1500, you will get an extra 30-50 horsepower (and obviously a little more torque). If your desired horsepower is 450 or less, you can easily get there with a quality 383 cubic inch build.

Check out Karl Ellwein (http://www.ellweinengines.com/) and Chad Golen (Performance LT1 Crate Engines | Golen Engines), for some proven combinations from reputable builders.
While your looking, check out the prices. You might even want to consider commissioning one of these companies to build an engine for you. I think very highly of both companies.
As for heads, I can’t say. All I can say is that the heads and cam must be matched to compliment each other. AFR, Advanced Induction, and of course Lloyd Elliott can all do what you need if the cam is spec’d with the heads in mind (of course your cam will also be specified for the driving manners and power delivery that you want). Looking at the Ellwein Engines “builds” page may steer you towards a set of heads that will meet your needs.
Good luck, and don’t hesitate to call on the experts (not me) if you have questions.