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1996 Impala SS
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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
Thanks for the comments @nsaness that is kind of my feel for the 396 as well although at $37 per hp at 40+ it is quite tempting.

As a stubborn person I would really like to build my own completely. I have a guy that will spec me a cam as well although I may get a couple of opinions first before I grind one. I will check out that builds page!

I am looking at this book to get some information from although according to reviews it seems to miss some of the step by step pieces. I know a lot of my stuff will be a bit different considering I am doing ARP bolts etc. https://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Performance-Chevy-Engines/dp/1613252463

Also pictures!!!!
Automotive tire Automotive engine gasket Rectangle Auto part Font

Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Gas Automotive exterior Rim

Automotive engine gasket Motor vehicle Automotive tire Audio equipment Gas
 

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94’ Impala SS
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In my circles, Frank Beck Racing Engines (BRE) was kind of famous for making a killer gen2 LT1 396 back in the day.
He can still build them, but like everyone, he is all LS now…

Some persons thoughts on building for a supercharged (lower compression) LT1 (note the rod length is shorter)

When picking parts, keep in mind the crank is under a lot more stress in a stroker, and the 396 makes it worse than the 383.
 

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Fwiw, I went with a Callies crank and Scat H-beam rods (both forged 4340). I tried to build the strongest bottom end I could, with the parts available at the time of build, and keeping to a budget. (In that order)
 

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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
So that book you posted is unobtanium. I will get the other book I was looking at.

@nsaness Are you running a 2 piece RMS or a 1 piece? I would like to do a 1 piece but I guess I have no real aversion to a 2 piece other than there was a reason they switched to one piece. Point being is that Callies does not offer a 1 piece RMS in their Compstar cranks. They do offer it in their Magnum lineup however those are $3,000 cranks and a bit much to stomach when I can buy a Scat crank that meets my requirements for $1,100. I have a Scat crank in a 472 stroker Pontiac Big Block so my experience is good with them :)
Second question, what rod size are you running? 5.7" or 6"? The Scat crank is balanced for a 5.7" rod but I hear the 6" is a little bitter at keeping cylinder and skirt wear down.

Could always do a 402 :)
 

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So that book you posted is unobtanium. I will get the other book I was looking at.

@nsaness Are you running a 2 piece RMS or a 1 piece? I would like to do a 1 piece but I guess I have no real aversion to a 2 piece other than there was a reason they switched to one piece. Point being is that Callies does not offer a 1 piece RMS in their Compstar cranks. They do offer it in their Magnum lineup however those are $3,000 cranks and a bit much to stomach when I can buy a Scat crank that meets my requirements for $1,100. I have a Scat crank in a 472 stroker Pontiac Big Block so my experience is good with them :)
Second question, what rod size are you running? 5.7" or 6"? The Scat crank is balanced for a 5.7" rod but I hear the 6" is a little bitter at keeping cylinder and skirt wear down.

Could always do a 402 :)
I am running Callies Forged DragonSlayer 3.875" Crank with a 1 piece seal. This was purchased around 2002, so it could be discontinued. Now days, I would certainly buy the Magnum. I have been told the Compstar metal comes from China, but the machining is done in the states? IMO any money spent on the best crank (you can afford) is never wasted... BTW, I think Scat has great crank offerings too.

Rods: I am running 5.850" rods and a small base circle cam. Please realize my engine was built for boost, so my engine was built for what ended up being a 9.6:1 compression ratio.

As for the 402 (lol): I think you can go up to 434 cu in with off the shelf parts, but just at the costs jump for 383 to 396; cost jump up exponentially as you get more exotic with your cubic inches. I'm not wealthy, so I have learned that the key to every engine build is to set goal; and know where to stop based on the goal.

From my build records:
Callies DragonSlayer crankshafts are made in the USA for American racers. With an expanded line of part numbers the DragonSlayer set the standard by which other sportsman crankshafts are measured.
These crankshafts are machined to the tolerances demanded by today's high performance engine builder. Roundness and taper are held to less than .0003" on all rod and main Journal diameters . Our final polishing procedures produce excellent load carrying surfaces that ensure extended bearing life and trouble free operation.
Each Callies DragonSlayer receives our proven Ultra-Case heat treatment. Callies heat treat expertise combined with our high purity premium 4340 forging produce a strength of unparalleled value. All DragonSlayers are produced with standard Chevy Rod journal diameters and widths for SBC, BBC, Mopar and Ford applications.
SMALL BLOCK CHEVY----------------------------------------------------------------------
Small Block Chevy OragonSlayer crankshafts are produced in a wide range of strokes. DragonSlayer crankshafts are machined with all four rod journals drilled and have a typical weight of 50 pounds.
• With 2.10•0 available.
rod journals, 3.480", 3.500", 3.750", 3.875", and 4.000" strokes are

  • With 2.000" rod journals, 3.480", 3.500", 3.625", and 3.750" strokes are offered.
  • Either 400 or 350 main sizes can be specified for most strokes.
  • Late model one piece rear main seal crankshafts are produced in both 3.750" and 3.875" strokes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
I was unable to find the DragonSlayer crank but I could be looking the wrong places. You are correct in the Compstar cranks are made in China and machined in the US. I would like to have as many US made parts as possible but the fact of the matter is that the cranks do still work and I wouldn't second guess something with the Callies name on it. I do agree with you completely though. I will go ahead and make a crank thread here.

Just joking about the 402. I had seen it in the LT1 book and thought that would be fun lol :D
Also yes to your boost. This engine will never see it so mine will most certainly look a little different than yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Over the weekend I tried my hand at paint polishing, I had done it once before when I removed all the badging on my truck but that was in a very small area. The main reason was to try and remove a lot of the hard water spots that had etched into the paint on the hood, trunk and roof. I was only able to get the hood done so I will have to go back and do the trunk, not sure how I am going to do the roof. My plan was to do a two step on those three spots and then just a one step polish on the fenders and doors because they look very good with minimal scratching; honestly they could probably go without it. Bumpers get neglected as both of them are cracked to hell and need a paint job very very badly.

To start I used a product that once again I had never used before, Optimum No Rinse and the Optimum Red Sponge. These products come highly recommended to me and after using them all I can say is wow. They cut wash time in half at least, allows me to wash inside and saves water. As you wash with ONR you dry with microfibers at the same time so take it slow one panel at a time. Afterwards I clayed with the Mother's clay bar while using ONR as clay lube drying as I went along. It took me two or three passes over the roof as there was so much **** stuck to it; last time I clayed I skipped the roof I seem to recall. Finally it came time for the polishing, cut the hood into 8 sections (could have maybe done 6 but I did 8) and used the Chemical Guys Orange medium to heavy cutting pad and Chemical Guys V36 for the first pass. Next came Chemical Guys White light to medium polishing pad and Chemical Guys V38 for my final pass. As a pad conditioner I used the Chemical Guys pad conditioner and for a power tool I used an orbital buffer.
To seal the paint afterwards I used TurtleWax Ice Seal N Shine Hybrid spray. I will apply a coat of Meguiars Wax as a secondary coating for some more paint protection.

Onto the pics! I wish I had taken a complete hood photo before so you could compare but unfortunately I forgot.

Before:
Atmosphere Galaxy Astronomical object Science Star


After:
Atmosphere Automotive lighting Hood Astronomical object Automotive exterior


Picture of the hood. You can just barely see the wiper rest in the top left corner.
Building Automotive tire Machine Engineering Motor vehicle
Hood Urban design Engineering Naval architecture City




As you can see it still is not perfect, I don't think any real detailer would even call it good. This was just my first attempt at something of the sort and I am pretty happy with the way it came out. I have to remind myself that all those scratches that show up in the LED light will never even get noticed by 95% of people. This seemed to have done a great job at removing probably 80-85 percent of the hard water spots I had as well as removing a lot of scratches. I definitely think my technique needs work as it is pretty inconsistent and very amateur. You can see in the photos that there still are scratches in the paint but not nearly as many. I will be doing the trunk next and hopefully the roof although I have no idea how I will get up there without scratching the hell out of the doors. Most likely put a towel hanging down the door so I can lean on it for support and not scratch the paint with the power cable.

Any tips, tricks or ideas before I start my next round of polishing? I think I should have cleaned the pad up half way through as I think it may have gotten clogged with too much product. Seemed like it would haze over and I'd be buffing with a microfiber more than I wanted to. Also spreading the polish seemed way inconsistent. I would set the orbital on one and then move it around my area but it was basically gone by the time I got to the end of my square. I started to just press some polish in each area and then did a pass on one and afterwards turned it up. Finally the microfibers I bought suck ass, way too much lint. I am hoping after a wash they will quit linting.



Impala has been tucked away and will remain that way because of the rain so I have unlimited time to finish this project.
 

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It looks great; far, far better!
After doing your own, you start to understand why good detailing is so expensive. I'm too impatient to follow the proper steps and take the time (and labor) necessary to do a proper job. I am at the point in life where all detailing (and most car washing) is outsourced.
The hood is easy to reach and a nice large surface. I lose patience is the low and complex surface areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
@nsaness Oh for sure, I had an idea why it was expensive going into it. The main issue is the space I am in gets slightly uncomfortable in the summer so I end up with cracked and dried out hands by the end of the day while the rest of my body is drenched in sweat. I am hoping I can fix that soon.

Ready to get back to wrenching though. I am NOT a detailer. 😂
 
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