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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a 96 SS that has been sitting for about 2 years. The guy said the starter broke and he stopped driving it.

Got it home pulled the starter and the nose cone was broke off. (Bought a Vette starter to replace it) I am going to check the fly wheel for missing teeth or cracks.

I don't know anything about this car what else do you guys think I should do before firing it up? Should I try to turn it over with a breaker bar first to make sure its not seized?

Oil looks good and there is coolant - I will flush all of this and change the oil but I want to turn it over first.
 

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bad gas in the tank would be my concern. You can get a syphon hand pump/hose at Harbor Freight to get the old gas from tank. Put a few gallons of fresh gas in.

You could pull the coil wire or electrical plug to coil, and injector fuses and then crank the car until the oil light goes out (you would have oil pressure then) and then connect back and try and start. If you want you could use a 5/8" socket and turn the motor a turn if you felt it may be frozen first

The fact nose of starter broke could mean the motor was hydro locked so try and rotate engine by hand.

Does the oil look normal or milky??

Car may stumble and misfire initially when started as gas in injectors and fuel lines will be old and some of the injectors may be sticking, maybe not. If it does run a bottle of fuel injector with fresh gas may help

if it runs you should consider fluid changes, fuel filter, plugs & wires if they are old. Usual maintenance stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll syphon out the gas, whats in there right now smells fine but I was planning on this so might as well do it. As well as all the usual maintenance stuff.

The oil looked perfect no signs of milky or usual color.

When I get home ill try to give it a little turn with the 5/8 just to make sure, get the oil pressure up and then see how it goes.

thanks,
 

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with my boat engine up in the cold damp north east I before starting engine add 1 OZ of MMO in each cylinder . then after it sits a day or two with plugs removed crank it by hand ...I would also to be safe use fogging oil blow it in the intake manifold just before you crank it by hand ... plugs out ..

this should crank with some force but not too hard .. this may fix any stuck valves/rings so this is s PITA on this vehicle but good insurance to prevent major damage...

may not be necessary .... I do this on my boat engine every year 1978 never worked on..170HP...

family member has a honda motorcycle .. one cylinder had little compression . I told him to do what I told you and now he has both cylinders @125 psi compression .. is all fixed .. bad cylinder had 30-60 psi .. erratic ..MMO and fogging oil did it ..

on the starter nose this is most likely back fires thru intake .. can be the ICM/COIL ... possible opti .. if coil/ICM is OEM 22 yrs old replace those parts....
 

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OP

IDK if gas up where you are has ethanol in it but if it does 2 years is pushing it so emptying the tank would be a good call. If no ethanol and it still smell ok you can try and start it

Turning the motor by hand not a bad idea but I doubt the rings are stuck

See if it starts before putting any new parts

Starter nose breaking can happen for a few reasons. Hydro lock if head gasket blows, severe backfire while starting or engaging starter with engine running

The PO stopped driving the car because of a bad starter...starters are not much $ and easy to replace so "maybe" there is something going on he didn't tell you or he is just lazy.

Ideally the car will start and just general maintenance will revive it to a good driver
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ran this through my head as well I really have no reason to trust the guy but I told him I was going to buy it regardless so hoping he told me what he knew. He also had a Road master as his DD and he said he has a Black SS that he had to get here from SD so he lost interest in the DCM.

All that said I want to run through everything see if it will start and go from there.

I drove by this car for the last 2 years and watched it rot into the ground finally saw the guy and gave me a deal I couldn't say no to. Little moldy inside, paint is beat up but really only on the roof an the starter nose cone was broke.

I will say this guy seems like someone who would be too lazy to change a starter lol I met him three times and he was wearing the same thing every time I don't think he was too proactive to get this car back on the road.
 

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Draining the fuel is easy if you detach the hose at the back of the filter, and use the pump to fill a/some gas can(s).
 

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when you get to doing the roof paint work use epoxy primer .. also I would remove both front /rear windshields..[rust holes]..................
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone.

I put a breaker bar on it and it turned over easy. I didn't turn it too much maybe a quarter turn but good to know its not froze up.

I will drain the gas out this weekend and pull the plugs to do a visual check. I am going to check the flywheel too I am a little worried I am going to put a new starter in without fixing what broke the nose cone off initially.

Is there a way to check if the ICM is bad? before buying a new one.

As far as paint and body the only big problems are the roof clear coat burned off even a couple little rust spots, and the rear spoiler and a bunch of paint chipped off it it and the wheel moldings and pretty bad. besides that its pretty straight.

Thanks...I sold my last SS about 5 years ago so I'm a little rusty on these.
 

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Is there a way to check if the ICM is bad? before buying a new one.

.
shbox.com notes a way to test the harness pins to it...

ICM Harness
A = ~10vdc-12vdc (or your system voltage)
B = 1vac-4vac while cranking
C = ~ 0 ohms to ground with key OFF
D = ~10vdc-12vdc (or your system voltage-might be slightly less than reading at "A")

but not the ICM itself. I have heard that parts stores like Autozone can test them. Problem is the ICM often fails when it is hot so testing a room temp one may not be accurate as it would test OK but once hot from engine stops working

I would not blindly buy one unless the car does not start and you go through the "why no start" procedures on ignition

On flexplate there is a inspection cover on bottom of trans you can remove to see about 1/2 of it. Just rotate motor by hand to see all of it

Given the lack of attention the PO had for the car...likely plugs & wires may be needed but if it were me I would just get it started first before just replacing parts. Maybe it is fine and just needs a full service and tune up....or maybe there is something major which would cost perhaps more than you want to put into the car so IMHO get it started then see from there

As suggested you can use the "test" plug located on PS near the upper mid fender well near underhood fuse block to feed +12v to it and activate the fuel pump to then pump out the fuel if you disconnect the fuel line and divert it into some kind of container. I was hesitant to suggesting that vs using a simple hand pump syphon type thing as pumping all that crap gas through fuel pump may cause damage to it but people have done it that way.

I used the syphon pump when I had to drop my tank to swap the fuel pump. Since my gas was good I just pumped it into a 5 gal gas can I had and then poured that gas into another vehicle as of course my SS had a full tank of gas when my fuel pump failed. In your case the fuel is crap so you will need to dispose of it so ideally your tank does not have much fuel in it

I have the cheaper one but either would work

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/Fluid-Siphon-Pump-62613.html
 

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I’d just try to fire it up, 2yrs isn’t that long.
dump can gas stabilizer in it w/ some fresh gas & bottle of injector cleaner.

see whatcha got...
 

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I’d just try to fire it up, 2yrs isn’t that long.
dump can gas stabilizer in it w/ some fresh gas & bottle of injector cleaner.

see whatcha got...
This.

The engine isn't seized. You know that. Change the oil if anything and fire it up. What are you gonna do with all that gas you drain out anyway?

Mine was sitting for God knows how long. At least 3-4 years but maybe more. Fuel tank was bone dry. All 8 injectors were clogged with old fuel resin. Put new ones in, put gas in the tank, flushed out the fuel lines, changed the oil and fired it up. Granted there were some other troubleshooting steps...involved cause it literally was my first rodeo but anyway. Sucks that it's been sitting outside but either way the engine isn't stuck so crank it and see what happens.
 

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some auto part stores like auto zone can test the ICM.. but if the coil is riveted in place then replace the coil as that is too old and has arcing issues due to the insulation BREAKING DOWN CRACKING .. not expensive to replace but does take more work with the rivets ..

it does cause back fires and miss fires and damages the ICM..then starter gets whacked ..
 

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This.

The engine isn't seized. You know that. Change the oil if anything and fire it up. What are you gonna do with all that gas you drain out anyway?

Mine was sitting for God knows how long. At least 3-4 years but maybe more. Fuel tank was bone dry. All 8 injectors were clogged with old fuel resin. Put new ones in, put gas in the tank, flushed out the fuel lines, changed the oil and fired it up. Granted there were some other troubleshooting steps...involved cause it literally was my first rodeo but anyway. Sucks that it's been sitting outside but either way the engine isn't stuck so crank it and see what happens.
I'll just add, if you decide to go this route...
Quick check for fuel pressure(KOEO), if that's decent quick check for spark after removing FP relay, again if good, give it a shot.
If a quick test fire, and run pans out, then go ahead and give it some love.
Fresh fluids, filters, tune-up etc.
 

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I'll just add, if you decide to go this route...
Quick check for fuel pressure(KOEO), if that's decent quick check for spark after removing FP relay, again if good, give it a shot.
If a quick test fire, and run pans out, then go ahead and give it some love.
Fresh fluids, filters, tune-up etc.
Yeah. If you don't have a gauge you can turn the key on and just poke the shrader valve a little bit and see if any fuel comes out but if you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key you are most likely good. Have a wrag ready and do it gingerly if you do touch the shrader though.

A lot of people told me my fuel pump was either bad or gonna go bad after sitting for so long and 4+ years later and 15k miles it's fine.



Thank guys this is what I'm going to do, but wont be able to until this weekend. I don't suspect a huge problem but even if there is I still think I am coming out on top. Paid $500.

Nice score. If it runs that's a really good score. respray the roof and drive that mofo!
 

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Draining the fuel is easy if you detach the hose at the back of the filter, and use the pump to fill a/some gas can(s).
If you start the engine and then pull whatever fuse the fuel pump is on, it will suck the line dry and you won't get gas in the face when you pull the line at the filter. That's the story I heard. Never tried it myself. Gas in the tank is probably turning to the dark side, but so is whatever is in the line, so I'm not sure it's that terrible of a move. Just fired mine up with 16 month old gas, but I put it away with a load of premium dosed with sta-bil. 12 year old Optima Yellow Top finally passed away (had been on a trickle charger). Fired right up with a new Yellow Top, doesn't seem to be that unhappy with the gas just idling.

There is fuel pump prime connector up in the engine bay near the fuse box that you can use to force the pump on and pump the tank dry. Plenty of threads on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok pull the starter. Nose come broke off. Filled the pan that covers the fly wheel and found the broken piece of starter.

Checked the flywheel and it looks like 1 tooth is broke off.... what do you guys think? Does that mean I should replace the flywheel? Or just keep it knowing it’s missing a tooth? This is not going to be a race car or a high dollar car just something I work on fix up and enjoy. Let me know some thoughts....
 

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If it were me and I found a tooth missing I would replace the flex plate. Inexpensive part compared to maybe having to keep buying starters. Do it right the first time. JMHO

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know it’s the right thing to do.....but can I get away with fixing at a later date? Also the Vette starter has no nose cone....will it break?
 
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