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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently got hold of a set of SS springs to install in my 9C1. I'm tired of that 4x4 height! Anyways, I've got the rears figured out, but have heard more than one thing about the fronts.

If anyone could give me detailed directions on how to remove the 9C1 springs so I can install the SS's would be great. And yes...I searched. I'll be doing the install in the next few days.
Thank you!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'll try to get you started.
1. Put front end on jack stands
2. Remove wheels, Calipers, rotors, shocks, and stab bar end links.
3. Take the cotter pin out of the lower ball joint and loosen, but not remove the nut.
4. Using an inexspensive ball joint sepatator,"also called a picklefork" and a hammer, seperate the ball joint from the spindle.
5. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack and renove the nut on the ball joint.
6. Lower the floor jack and remove the spring.
Before you start, locate the bottom end of the spring located in the lower control arm. The end of the new spring needs to be put in the same location.
Also there is a rubber isolater on the top of the spring. Make sure that when you install the new spring that it is seated correctly.
Reverse the procedure to instal the new springs.
Use new cotter pins and it's a good time
to change the shocks and stab end links. Be sure to torque the nut on the ball joint.
Hope this helps getting you started.

[ 08-03-2002: Message edited by: RJI ]

[ 08-03-2002: Message edited by: RJI ]
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
SSprings are done! Thanks for the help Bob!

I ran into trouble with the shocks, but otherwise the project went just as planned w/your directions. I ended up lowering the control arm and then lifting the upper arm about 2-3" so I could stick a piece of 1x2 in to prop it up. That way I could get a wrench in from either side to loosen the top of the shock. I've only been done about 45 minutes, but the car seems to be settling already! Now I just need to find the grease gun and hit all the fittings.

BTW-the front sway bar endlink bushings where it was connected to the control arm were yellow. Any info on these?

[ 08-06-2002: Message edited by: eagle-co94 ]
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They were probably replaced once before if they were yellow, no big deal if they work and dont make noise.

To speed the settling process, this is my method (I think it works quite well).

Take the car to a long road with little traffic on it (preferably at night).

Drive the car at 40 mph and chuck the steering wheel back and forth as fast as you can so the car essentially rocks pretty violently on the suspension. Mine made all sorts of popping, creaking and banging noises, and then all of a sudden was silent like it was prior the spring install. When I got out in the driveway and looked at it, the front end sat noticeably lower and it hasn't dropped anymore since (plenty of time and mileage to fully settle it).

Don't forget to get it alligned soon, my caster was way out so dropping it really threw out the toe, it is all in spec now (the tight b-body.net specs too) and the difference in front end feel afterwords is amazing.

I'm going to be installing new balljoints soon, so while I have it apart, I'm going to cut a half a coil off the front springs (also stock SS springs), the car looks too high on 275/40's even on SS springs to me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm driving down to Orlando Saturday for my final GOFASST club meeting before I ship out. I have a 5 year alignment deal with Tire Kingdom (which is everywhere in FL) so I'll do that then.
When I return in January I'll be replacing balljoints as well as tires, rotors/pads and whatever else, maybe going to 17x9.5 wheels and lower springs too. I may keep these for a little while.
After a 20 minute drive I've got about 1.25" clearance between the tires and fenders. It was close to 3.25" before the swap. Getting out of the car the ground IS noticably closer than before.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by eagle-co94:
Getting out of the car the ground IS noticably closer than before.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, I noticed the same thing. I guess it worked huh :D I'm gonna cut a half a coil off the fronts when I have it all apart for the new balljoints and bushings, I'll post how much further it drops it, switching to 275/40/17 tires made a lot of that fender to tire gap come back, so it almost looks like it needs to be dropped again. I guess we won't be posting with you for a few months huh?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, it looks that way. I'd like to get access to the net, and if I do, I'll pop up somewhere. My enlistment bonus is helping me get my T56, so it's worth it! That and all the other goodies the car will get like new paint.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now it's about 1" in the front and 1/2" in the rear.

The only other thing I forgot to mention was that I used a breaker bar through the bottom coil and touching the lower arm to "pry" the coil into place. With a little effort, it popped into place and with some heavy tapping I got it into place where the original coil was.
 
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