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Hi I havent been on here in a long time since i sold my 95 caprice. I finally got a 94 ss and the a/c doesn't work. I have searched and I think I know whats wrong but not 100% sure. The system will not take a can of red tek freon the clutch will not cycle. When I unplug the switch on the accumulator the idle drops a little and when I unplug the switch on the line the idle drops too. I have power at the clutch pig tail. So if I have power at the clutch does this mean the switches are ok cause there sending power to the clutch? If so then there must be enough gas in the system. Is that correct? Since I have power at the clutch does this mean the relay is ok and if so then I'm thinking the clutch its self is no good. I can spin the pulley easy as well as the center of the ac pulley. I'm going to try and get a pig tail for the clutch and hook it up to battery power to see if it clicks on or not. Is this a good way to test the clutch? thanks for any help.
 

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Sounds like you got it right

Just went through the same process on Thursday with my 92 with my HVAC tech buddy. It held an okay charge, but the compressor wouldn't always kick on. It would initially, but after running for a bit, the clutch would not run even with power at the pigtail.

I'll know this weekend if that fixes it or not. If you put a clutch in, you should buy a new accumulator so everything stays under warranty.
 

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You do not need to replace the accumulator when replacing the clutch. The clutch is around $70 and it takes about 1 hr labor to install. That is presuming that the clutch is the problem. What are the pressure readings? Why were you using Red Tek instead of 134? Are both fans coming on with the A/C?
 

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If you have power at the compressor, that means you have at least enough of a charge to engage the compressor. It still doesnt mean you have the proper charge, but dont add anymore until you deal with the clutch not engaging. Its a good sign that you can actually spin the clutch. I would replace the clutch with would include the coil under it that. Thats what is actually is energized to create a magnetic field to draw the clutch in. I dont have experience with this particular compressor, but usually there are little washers under the clutch that space it a certain distance from the pulley. If this distance is to great due to wear, the coil may not be able to pull the clutch in.

Like j cat said, you dont have to replace the drier. You are not going to open the system by replacing just the clutch. Dont add anything but r134a, and adding refrigerant blindly is ill advised as well.
 

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That's normal as far as I know. Never seen both fans come on with the a/c either of my cars under normal operating temps.
This is incorrect information. Both fans should be on with the A/C and if yours don't, you have something wrong. Try not to confuse things by posting wrong information.

To the O/P. then you have a bad fan motor and it needs to be replaced before you do anything further regarding your A/C. The good news is that the motors are cheap and easy to replace.
 

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This is incorrect information. Both fans should be on with the A/C and if yours don't, you have something wrong. Try not to confuse things by posting wrong information.

To the O/P. then you have a bad fan motor and it needs to be replaced before you do anything further regarding your A/C. The good news is that the motors are cheap and easy to replace.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=286977&highlight=fans

Quoting Scott Mueller:
"B/D-car coolant fans operate under PCM control at the following engine temperatures and A/C system pressures:

Fan…………………Mode………Temps………………A/C Pressure
Primary (RH)…ON…… 109°C / 229°F……189 psi
Primary (RH)…OFF……105°C / 221°F……150 psi
2ndary (LH)……ON…… 112°C / 234°F……240 psi
2ndary (LH)……OFF……108°C / 227°F……210 psi

Additionally, the PCM will turn off the fans at higher vehicle speeds (above 48 MPH I believe), since running fans can actually impede airflow through the radiator at high speed.
Each fan also has a minimum running time. Once activated, the primary fan will run for a minimum of 50 seconds, and the secondary fan for a minimum of 26 seconds.
Finally, certain Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) may cause the PCM to turn on one or both fans."


Try not to confuse things by posting wrong information. The above info shows that the secondary fan will not come on until the pressures in the a/c start getting up to 240 psi. it will take some time before that happens. it wont come on as soon as the A/C turned on.
 
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