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The valve that controls the air blowing over the heater core has crapped out or the blend-door rod has broken/dislodged. Or you have a vacuum leak in the HVAC system so the door isn't getting pulled closed.
 

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The valve that controls the air blowing over the heater core has crapped out or the blend-door rod has broken/dislodged. Or you have a vacuum leak in the HVAC system so the door isn't getting pulled closed.
Can I fix this or should I go to an A/C shop? Also, when the A/C is on full blast and the clutch engages, the metal unit where I filled does not get cold either. The metal unit near the passenger firewall does not get cold or sweat at all.
 

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Did you pull a good vacuum on the system before charging?

An overcharged, low charged, air or moisture in the system(from inadequate vacuum before charging) will all result in same...no cooling or poor cooling.
 

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I'm no A/C expert and just replaced pretty much the entire system with the exception of the Condensor and Evaporator. When complete, I just took it to a shop to have them evac and charge the system for me. Although the system was working great, it was working too well. It was actually icing up the entire system after about 10-15 min. and then there was zero airflow into the car. What they found was that the little $20 switch in the receiver/drier that I decided not to replace was bad and causing the Compressor to not cycle on/off as it should. So a stupid little piece that I just moved over from my old drier should have also been replaced at the time....live n learn.

Best advice I could provide is take it to a shop and have them do a quick diiagnostic of the issue for you. It may cost you an hour of Shoptime but at least you'll know and they have the tools and equipment I dont to get it done properly. GL
 

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Thanks everyone. The system was almost full before I charged it. I did not evacuate it before I charged it and I know I overcharged it a little. I will have an A/C shop evacuate the system and recharge it properly. I'll post updates.
 

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I'm no A/C expert and just replaced pretty much the entire system with the exception of the Condensor and Evaporator. When complete, I just took it to a shop to have them evac and charge the system for me. Although the system was working great, it was working too well. It was actually icing up the entire system after about 10-15 min. and then there was zero airflow into the car. What they found was that the little $20 switch in the receiver/drier that I decided not to replace was bad and causing the Compressor to not cycle on/off as it should. So a stupid little piece that I just moved over from my old drier should have also been replaced at the time....live n learn.

Best advice I could provide is take it to a shop and have them do a quick diagnostic of the issue for you. It may cost you an hour of Shoptime but at least you'll know and they have the tools and equipment I dont to get it done properly. GL
if the low pressure switch is always closed with NO / low pressure then the compressor will fail .. probably why the old one died. this is like running an engine with NO oil...
 

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Thanks everyone. The system was almost full before I charged it. I did not evacuate it before I charged it and I know I overcharged it a little. I will have an A/C shop evacuate the system and recharge it properly. I'll post updates.
so the ac was not cooling and the receiver dryer was not cold ... if so then the orifice tube maybe bad [plugged up].... or the compressor is not pumping ..

temp door operation >>>>>>>>>...... does the hot air come out in hot ? and cooler air in cold ??? if so the temp door is working
 

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You say your compressor is engaging (spinning), so the system should do it's thing ... even poorly. Since you are not detecting any cooling anywhere in the system (tubes, etc), your compressor is either simply not working internally, you actually don't have any Freon in the system, or your orifice tube is missing (or not working properly) and you are not getting a pressure / vacuum differential in your system. Without a high to low pressure transition, you will not get Freon to absorb heat (cool). You didn't say you hooked up a manifold to check your pressures (high and low), so I'm going to assume (respectfully) that you do not have the experience to fix this, and suggest you take this in to a shop before you inadvertently trash something ($$) ... and smack yourself. :)
 

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if the low pressure switch is always closed with NO / low pressure then the compressor will fail .. probably why the old one died. this is like running an engine with NO oil...
That could be but in actuality my system and old Compressor were still working fine.

In my case, I noticed dyed oil on the compressor case and was concerned it was leaking. Took it to a professional shop and they confirmed my thoughts and the Seal in the compressor was bad. I did not take them up on their $800 offer to replace the system for me. I just stopped using the A/C (even though she still worked) for fear of it leaking out to much, imploding and sending schrapnel thru the entire system.

I opted to replace the parts (compressor, orfice tube, drier and manifold hose, along with ALL seals) myself and take it to a shop to be evaced and charged. I just transferred over the $20 switch to the new dryer and put a new o-ring on that. I should have just replaced it to begine with but noooooooo, I didn't and smacked myself later for the $100 follow up repair bill. In any case, system is working flawlessly now....just in time for winter. >:)
 

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the compressor leaking oil is what I had 3 plus years ago. replaced compressor ,filter dryer,seals,flushed the system. including the condenser/evap etc..

I mixed some dye in with the oil and added it to all of the components .. then vacuumed the system no leaks then charged it up .. still working ... the one failure I had was the filter dryer seal that came with it was defective so it was leaking at the low pressure switch .. I did not have to replace the refrigerant and that was the only issue.

the dye did reveal the leak easy ......did not have any cooling issues it was small..
with all the years of use there was a gray slime when flushing the system....

some will buy new condenser rather than clean the component .. flush products /air compressor and the use of water pressure ,then air compressor to blow out the cond is what to do ..
orifice tube screen can get plugged up when the compressor starts breaking up..
 

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Thanks everyone. The system was almost full before I charged it. I did not evacuate it before I charged it and I know I overcharged it a little. I will have an A/C shop evacuate the system and recharge it properly. I'll post updates.
j cat;12019666so the ac was not cooling and the receiver dryer was not cold ... if so then the orifice tube maybe bad [plugged up said:
.... or the compressor is not pumping ..

temp door operation >>>>>>>>>...... does the hot air come out in hot ? and cooler air in cold ??? if so the temp door is working
Thanks for this post about the temp Door!!! The door was working fine after all. Turns out, my compressor was bad. A shop hooked everything up to a machine which drained and refilled it TWO TIMES. The machine found no leaks anywhere. Both times, the A/C did not work. He changed my Compressor 5 mins ago and now it blows cold as a Yetti's nipples. It didn't cost too much, but it was expensive. It works just fine now. Super cold. Thanks to everyone for all the help! The car is now mechanically perfect. I will start daily driving it now!
 

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If he didn't change the accumulator and orifice tube, you may have trouble again soon. Those should always be done when the compressor is changed and are both cheap.
 

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Well now. That's cool that you got it up and running again. I'll be replacing the entire system on mine.

Mark: Snowman-33
 
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