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Discussion Starter #1
headed to a Sunday cruise....battery light on. did DVM test....11.6 VDC checking battery terminals with engine running. Was all good when I pulled the car in garage last night..just start up this am I see battery light on

So it would appear the Alt is not outputting enough VDC. Alt swap is no big deal but for the $149-$179 depending on what reman from what chain store I am going to take a step back.

The "new" AC Delco I got was from Rockauto so no warranty anymore but the $ was good and for the $115 for a "new" one I may go that route again. These "new" AC Delcos are made in Mexico now.

Just disappointing the "new" one I bought had a short life

All connections are good, Gary's cables, belt, tensioner, solid battery,etc are good. Shiat happens

IDK if voltage regulator or a diode craped on the bridge. All the old school rebuild shops have long gone away anywhere near me...even far from me.

I will go see if my original is still in attic. It had a slight bearing squeak so I can swap parts over to make one good one likely
 

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I'd crack it open, and rebuild it, or grab an OE from the junkyard.
They are very easy to rebuild, and even good parts are cheap.
I'd also rebuild the other one you have, and then you have a spare, for a fraction of the cost of a "new" one.

With the lack of quality/longevity of even "new" parts these days, used seems to be a better choice IMHO.

Last CS144 I picked up from local yard cost me $17, and been on my Jeep for ~6yrs w/o any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah "new" is not what it used to be...

pulled my original 144 from attic, put new brushes in it and it works fine. $1.67. It had that very slight "chirp" to it when I spun it by hand but is quiet on the car. Ironically the one I pulled off also had a slight chirp to it spinning by hand but was quiet on car

Will poke around the "new" one and see if I find a diode out. I see rockauto has the rectifier bridge for ...ouch $104. Not worth it as a new alt is $114

searching for rebuild kits I find several but apparently part #s specific even if for a CS 144. Can't find one to match my part #.

My part #'s are:

ACD: 335-1048 (and alternator has 12333 after that)

GM#: 88877258

I don't have a bearing press to get the old bearings out and am hesitant to just "pounding" out old and installing new that way
 

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Whenever I have needed alternator parts I avoid parts stores or even rockauto/online outfits. I quit buying new/rebuilt alternators because they just never last it seems. I've had much better luck with JY units sadly.

I use alternatorparts.com they have never let me down with parts.
They have always answered my questions quickly, when I was unsure what part to order if it'll work, etc., etc.

CS144 Series Alternator Parts Bridge Rectifier

I don't have a press either, I usually just bring anything to a shop for anything that requires a press.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
IDK if it is the bridge rectifier or the voltage regulator that went bad

I watched the youtube vid on how to rebuild. The bearing swap can be done with hand tools....involving heating case in oven and or freezing bearing to get them in. You do need to chisel or use BFH to push the rear bearing out as the case casting lip is rolled over the edge of the bearing apparently. You then stake around the new bearing

So my 110k 18 year old original alt is back in the car with new brushes. The only reason I replaced it was it had a bearing chirp on start up but went away very quickly so who knows it may last another 20 years

I will call the parts place you noted and get the rebuild kit for my 2 year old one and have it as a spare when my original finally craps itself
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
so preliminary check the diodes in bridge rectifier seem to check out per method in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgikeXt91vM

mine was 1 with + on the power terminal and - on case and reversing that I get 573 so according to this test method the diodes are good in the rectifier.....which typically is what fails

auto part store alt test just says it failed, no specific reason why.

soooo given the diodes in rectifier seem to be good and I can't find a test procedure for the voltage regulator...I suspect it is the regulator. Fortunately those are around $15 for the "HD" version from a few Alternator Part web places

If anyone could shed any light on how to test the voltage regulator or comment on the procedure in video to test diodes, appreciated

this alt has around 6k miles on it
 

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These guys are da bomb and have never failed me:

Roadmaster Alternator

Free shipping, great prices, new, lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the link posted say they are "new"..."aftermarket" alts. But to contact them for "OE" ones.

thanks anyway but I am just looking to fix the one I have or otherwise I would just buy a "new" AC Delco again for $114 from Rock Auto.

I have not opened it up yet but have before on my original to replace brushes so replacing internal parts is something I can do.

I was just looking for a test procedure for the voltage regulator if someone knows.

It took all afternoon to bring the battery back to full voltage with my trickle charger. Battery is 2 year old Diehard AGM.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On further review...

....it would appear the brush wire broke.

$2.99 fix assuming this is the only problem

also using the DVM on the rectifier to test diodes I get same readings as the youtube vid

will pick up a brush set 2moro and see if this resolves the issue...
 

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....it would appear the brush wire broke.

$2.99 fix assuming this is the only problem

also using the DVM on the rectifier to test diodes I get same readings as the youtube vid

will pick up a brush set 2moro and see if this resolves the issue...
Nice, hopefully that's all it was/is, and for a few bucks you're good.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
the wire came out of the crimp....not so much on the quality control. AC Delco...made in Mexico

The voltage regulator is not a Delco or GM part either...its a Taditel made in Petach-Tikva wherever that is. I suspect every part in this "new" AC Delco is offshore

the spade type connection on the brush to voltage regulator are spot sodered to the male spade post on voltage regulator so you need to "un-soder" it to replace the brush......to bad they didn't solder dip the crimp connection also on the brush connection

Just glad this shiat itself in my garage vs somewhere on 1-15 between Vegas & L.A. when it was 118 degrees driving to West Coast Gathering

Hopefully this did not "short" and take out the voltage regulator...will find out 2moro when I take it in to test at auto part store.
 

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I have had a ACD "new" alternator, which is the same reboxed remy alternator for sometimes more money squeak on me. The deal was it was not the bearings, it was the brushes! Quality is nada these days.

As for Alternator parts I was going to do business with them but they have so many bad reviews on the net, I would stay away from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The $3 new brush fixed the problem

The relatively new alt obviously passed whatever bench test AC Delco did down in Mexico and it did work for about a year or so before the wire came out of the crimp. The brush set I put in is BWD (Borg Warner) and made in USA. The wires on them are also crimped but I checked them before install

Fortunately not a high $ repair and not a difficult one.....but this failure is one example of how the most obscure wire or connection can fail

Back when my car was new and under warranty the dealer put on several Opti. While some died due to leaking WP's...after about the 8th one I said wtf (all were under warranty) I just started tugging on wires associated with opti. I just touched the brown wire in the top 4 pin harness of the Opti and car immediately died....the brown wire on the opti harness was not crimped at all just was stuffed inside the terminal but never crimped.

Again needless to say another wtf one wire can just stop the car and often under the most inconvenient time or place possible.

so after watching a few youtube "how to" videos and having done this I have no problem completely rebuilding the alt should it ever need it vs buying a new one.
 

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I had 2 "new" delcos go out on me too. Both lasted less than a year and were luckily both covered under warranty still. On my 3rd one but I honestly feel like I am just Gona get the next one from AZ b/c they came with a lifetime warranty and are always in stock at my local one. The "new" delcos, I purchased off of amazon and luckily they had same day shipping but only b/c it was in stock both times. The last one i got happened to be the only one in stock and I would've had to wait 2 weeks for another. dont want to rely on them for the next time it goes out, b/c with these "new" alternators its just a matter of when will it go out on me. And at least the remanufactured alternators from autozone are OE delco just rebuilt, so it will at least look original
 
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