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ABS delete stainless hard lines

15K views 37 replies 10 participants last post by  Fred Kiehl 
#1 ·
Anyone know of any vendors that sell pre-bent stainless steel hardlines for B bodies routed for an ABS delete? I really would like to do stainless, but bending stainless line is a pain in the ass and I'd rather not have to spend time bending stuff up if I can just bolt something in (I have enough to do on this car in a short period of time).

I thought I remembered talk about somebody making them, but don't know if it ever came to be. It was a while ago.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
I do not know if they are made in stainless, but the 89 and 90 B-body lines will fit.
 
#3 ·
Awesome! thanks Fred, I know of a few places that may be able to duplicate them in stainless as long as they have a current design to work with on file. I'll let you guys know what I find out for anyone else interested in doing stainless prebent lines with ABS delete.
 
#5 ·
The stainless lines are offered for about 20-30 bucks more. Interested if 89-90 box lines would fit 91-96.
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
Great timing. I was actually driving around today getting quotes to bend some lines for this purpose. That would be great if there was a pre-made solution.

I was going to put a pro portioning valve on the rear lines, but I wonder if I could fit an after market combination/ proportioning valve in with the '89/'90 lines?

I guess It depends where the '89/'90 lines splist the front brake lines...
 
#8 ·
Great timing. I was actually driving around today getting quotes to bend some lines for this purpose. That would be great if there was a pre-made solution.

I was going to put a pro portioning valve on the rear lines, but I wonder if I could fit an after market combination/ proportioning valve in with the '89/'90 lines?

I guess It depends where the '89/'90 lines splist the front brake lines...
There is already a PV just below the MC and would assume if the Early lines fit our cars, then they must already have a PV in the same area too.

Not sure why you would want to add another, but if you're looking to do something beyond stock, why not consider the CPP Master Cylinder? Its at least a different option for you and are just about $150.

It already has the PV built in and I believe it is adjustable. Check their website for more info on the unit and look at this thread where Mike installed one of these in doing his Vette Upgrade. This MC is one I'm strongly considering when I update my lines but will be keeping the stock Brake Calipers and possibly upgrading to the 9C1 calipers and 614 pads up front.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=257194&highlight=CPP+Master+Cylinder&page=2
 
#11 ·
I may have to bit the bullet on it and try it. I just have to finish some side welding work I have been doing to make a little bit of the extra cash I need and then I'll probably go for it.

I wish there was some way to confirm it first, maybe find an 89 caprice in a junkyard and pull the lines off to test fit them before I go and buy them made in stainless which may not be returnable.
 
#12 ·
Inline tube sells the "77-90" kit in stainless as well and they also sell a 94-6 B body kit. I am going to email them and ask them if they could compare the fittings to see if they are the same for the 77-90 kit and the 94-6 B body kit. Then all we need to worry about is if it actually fits (which if they allow returns won't be too big of a deal).

I'm willing to bet they could make the 77-90 lines with the same fittings as the 94-6 but it may cost extra.
 
#13 ·
It seems like Fred was was pretty sure these would fit, maybe he could provide more info on the fittings and if they are the same. If not, you may need to be our Guine pig. :). If you do check this out, I would be very interested in what you find out or maybe the vendor can say for sure before you go through all the trouble.
 
#14 ·
If the lines are the same size, the fittings should be the same size, but I am not 100 percent sure the are. The lines may also screw into the side of the proportioning valve. If you look at an 89-90 proportioning valve, it should tell you a lot about whether the fittings are the same.
 
#15 ·
You guys are way over thinking this.

All you need is to get the stock line set and modify that.You use the stock front line going to the ABS from the MC and use a inverted flare T on top of the frame rail and connect the L&R lines and front line from MC together.

The Rear you just rebend and flare it for a union where the frame turns down unde the firewall.
 
#17 ·
This is definitely better than having to change all the fittings on a 77-90 line set, but I was really hoping there would be something that just straight up bolted in. Probably wishful thinking, but if the 77-90 lines to fit fairly well without much rebending needed and the fittings are all the same then that'll probably be the easiest bet. Only one way to find out though...
 
#16 ·
If you already have rusty lines that need replaced, then getting the complete line is the easiest and best way to proceed.
 
#18 ·
I can appreciate modifying the existing lines and have read other threads on doing this and how. However, having a car with 20+ years of East Coast Driving (aprox. 170K) on stock metal lines, has me considering just replacing them and be done with it. To me, having a new set (possibly Stainless :)) that could be installed would be well worth the investment. That's what I thought this thread was about.

To cut the original lines you may also need to invest in a Quality Flaring tool. I would not want something from Harbor Freight for this purpose and a Quality Tool costs good money and I don't flare/Bend lines often if at all. In any case, if we can find a new Set of lines that would bolt up to our cars with ABS removed and require minimal work to install, I think that would be a nice option to have.
 
#21 ·
I can appreciate modifying the existing lines and have read other threads on doing this and how. However, having a car with 20+ years of East Coast Driving (aprox. 170K) on stock metal lines, has me considering just replacing them and be done with it. To me, having a new set (possibly Stainless :)) that could be installed would be well worth the investment. That's what I thought this thread was about.

To cut the original lines you may also need to invest in a Quality Flaring tool. I would not want something from Harbor Freight for this purpose and a Quality Tool costs good money and I don't flare/Bend lines often if at all. In any case, if we can find a new Set of lines that would bolt up to our cars with ABS removed and require minimal work to install, I think that would be a nice option to have.
That's funny, I thought the thread was about looking for a prebent set of ABS delete brake lines. I didn't see replacing old possibly corroded lines in the original post.
NO one is going to offer a pre bent kit, especially an ABS delete one. Their insurance and liability policy wont allow it.
Why buy a kit made for another car and throw away most of it to just get some lines you are going to have to modify.
Buy a stock stainless kit and modify that, it's EASY.

As far as flaring the lines, if you are unable to properly cut,bend and flare brake lines then maybe you really shouldn't be doing the work yourself.
 
#19 ·
The tech from inline tube wasn't very helpful. He didn't even attempt to find out, just told me he wouldn't know if the fittings were the same or not. He also said there would be a "10-20% restocking fee" if I were to try to exchange the 77-90 lines with the 94-6 lines if they didn't end up fitting. I might try to talk to someone else there and I'll also email Classic Tube who I believe sells both as well.
 
#20 ·
I have bought from Classic Tube on 3 diff occasions. Spoke with a few guys there and were very helpful. They may be more receptive in fitment issues.
 
#24 ·
The 89-90 lines should come with the correct front brake line fitting to split them, left and right. As an owner, I am not worried about liability. If I am correct, antilock brakes were not mandated in those years.
 
#25 ·
I've got the engine bay empty, wire wheeled, degreased, and drying. I'm getting ready to drop the new engine in and start test fitting hoses so I'm almost ready to tackle the brakes.

Looking at pictures of kits, and looking over a box style caprice (not side by side, but comparing by "memory") it looks to me like you are going to have to cut either set to make it work. If my assumption here is correct, I can see no reason to start with box style lines...

At this point I'll agree with Area 51 Perf; "don't over think it. I'm going to pull the lines, label them, bend some hangers as molds and have a local shop flare the ends of stock lines or recreate short sections so that I can reattach on the car.

To those of you that still have the engine, exhaust, and driveshaft in the car - good luck.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I've been following this thread, as I wouldn't mind doing this whenever I get to swapping engines, and completely rebuilding the front end in my ride.

That said/written, I thought Y'all might want to check out Chad's thread on the Kore3 brake install he did.

At post #13 he gets into the details on deleting his ABS system.

Kore3 Brake Install/ABS Delete

Perhaps he can chime into this thread and post any specific details needed, that aren't in his thread.
 
#27 ·
I completely forgot about his thread....good info.:) Just give it a little extra time to load up the pics.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Metric Lines

I think the biggest issue you may face is that the 89-90 lines may not be metric. I found out that the fittings on our cars are metric. So, if you do end up getting a 89-90 pre-bent line, you may end up cutting off the standard fittings to put the original metric fittings back on so they'll fit the prop valve, master and caliper line fittings.

Also agree with who ever said to use a good quality flaring tool. The POS I had was worthless. Ended up getting a MAC Tool flaring kit and what a difference, even though it was the same general design.

Here's my end result:


And yes, you can snake the subframe brake line out from under the engine. Just be patient. I did it like 5 times.
 
#29 ·
Where did you get the T fitting, and what type is it? I have heard that the brass compression fittings were not strong enough to use for brake lines.
 
#30 · (Edited)
That information is in the Linked thread of his that JuniorWatson posted....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showpost.php?p=3529657&postcount=21

I dont believe what he used were "Compression Fittings" and as we know those are a big NoNo on brake lines. I'm assuming he used or I would use a Flare Union Adapter for the rear Line. These are acceptable and the only safe/DOT approved method to tie together a brake Line. Too much PSI in the brake system for any normal compression fitting to hold up to. EDIT - I re-read his thread and it does look like he used a "High Compression Fitting" on the rear Brake line. Not sure if these HCF's are OK to use on Brake Lines or not, I may just Flare both ends of the line and use a Flare Union if/when I do this. Just something you may want to be aware of.

BTW - Back to the original Topic of this thread. It would be nice if there was a Pre-bent kit with the correct fittings that could just be bolted up to the existing brake Componets. If not, I am perfectly fine using CaminoKids method assuming my current lines are still in Good Shape. If not and I need replacement lines, I may buy a kit for our car and redesign those or bend up new lines for the front area. I also like how he took the time to paint the lines....attention to detail was very nice.
 
#31 ·
I would like to know what specific parts he used to make the T.
 
#32 ·
When looked up the Part Numbers he posted it was for the Tee and the other number were Line Fittings. Both parts are 3/8" 24 Thread so I'm guessing what he did is used those to make the Tee instead of Metric Fittings. If you are reflaring the lines anyway I guess this would work.

Interested to see what he says. Might finally take the time to do this Conversion in the winter.
 
#33 · (Edited)
OK. So the rear line is a HCF. When talking with San Antonio Brake & Clutch, they said the fitting is good for over 10k PSI. Figured I'd never get that much pressure, even if I upgraded to a bigger master and hydraboost. :)

I did go with the standard 3/8 fittings & T. The difference between standard and metric line was 0.0005 in outside diameters. Standard line being 3/16 = 0.1875" and metric being 4.75mm = 0.1870" Thus not making it that big of a difference in pipe size, only whether it's metric thread or standard. Since SA B&C didn't have metric I went with 3/8's fittings. I don't know if a metric fitting would fit over the 3/16 line. But, the 3/8 fitting fit just fine over our metric 4.75 line. Warning: DO NOT use the 3/16 line flare on our lines as they are metric and you will never get the flare centered. I did end up buying a metric flaring kit.

So far, so good! My Caprice is not a daily driver, but I've been on several cruises, done a few panic stops (because I could :D) and general spirited driving and so far no leaks or braking problems. I would have no problems doing this to my Impala SS. I LOVE the bigger brakes and ABS delete! I still cannot get over how hard this car stops now.
 
#34 ·
I did this to mine out of the fact that there were no ABS boxes anywhere near me. couldn't get it to bleed out at all so I thought 'hey my 3 ton truck doesn't have abs... plus I want to do all new lines anyways.'

total time was about a day all together but I did as mentioned above by area51. used new lines all around of course. just put a T on the rail and ran the fronts off that and a direct line to the rears. so far so good.
 
#37 ·
They'll work great in my T56 car - LOL

But just a bit of an update so everyone knows.

I still think this will look nicer than stock lines all hacked up.
 
#38 ·
Carefully reshaped stock lines should not look hacked up.
 
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