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Discussion Starter #1
The last 6 months I noticed that the AC seemed to "steal" alot of Power from the Engine. When the compressor engaged I could really feel it. Yesterday on a parking lot the car made a screech sound and suddenly stopped. After a while I started to suspect the AC compressor. I turned off the AC and the car started right up.

I owned a lot of cars but never had a AC break down on me.
How difficult is it to replace the compressor?

Are there any good aftermarket brands?

Are the compressor in the LT1 same as in the standard 350?

Where I use to buy my parts the ask almost 1000$ for a new one. Would it be wise to buy a used compressor?
 

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Did you check all the belts?

The L05 and LT1 a/c compressors are different. $1,000 is a rip off. I bought one for my 1994 off ebay for under $250. Works perfect. I took it to my friend's shop so he could properly evacuate and refill the system.

A C Compressor ACDelco Pro 15 22135A | eBay
 

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I got all the components I needed for my system from: ACKITS.COM
 

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It's a good idea to change the accumulator and orifice tube at the same time so as not to damage your new compressor, Both are cheap and worth it. Good luck.
 

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^^^THIS^^^ Warranty coverage is typically void if you don't...
 

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what happened a few years back the ac compressor had seal leaks. the compressor body had oil on it. didn,t notice the oil until it snapped off the ac pulley . which also damaged the tension-er ..

I did the whole job for $300. replaced compressor/seals/orifice tube/receiver dryer 10OZ pag 150. flushed out the system . borrowed my friends vacuum pump. I have a ac gauge set .

yes a tough job on the compressor R/R. the rear of the compressor is supported by a dog ear that is the hard part.. what is required is mount the compressor in the front first. then lock in the rear support of the compressor dog ear. this is because the compressor must be set into place with no stress on the body of it that is why the rear support is adjustable.

40-45 psi low side 275 psi high side 80deg f air temp engine RPM 1000 blower on max doors open ...cools good for 3 years now.

I know some may not under stand what I am saying but using ac mineral oil on the seals keeps them from leaking. do not use PAG 150 oil on the seals because it reacts with air[moisture].. the ac mineral oil is needed . I got some from my friend who had the vacuum pump. NAPA does have this oil for the seals it was / is used for R12/R22 refrigeration systems . I got the R134 @kmart $10 a 12OZ can.

then with all the belt noise I had to replace the distorted tension-er from the ac compressor locked up on the belt.

shops will charge $1200 for this job !!! more if you buy an ac delco compressor ...
 

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I cut a slot in the bracket as per some suggestions here:

Not sure if I'll use/need the slotted washer on the backside.
 

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How do you properly charge a 1.75lb system with 12oz cans? It will either be over or under charged.
 

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First thing you need to do is make sure that it is in fact the whole compressor which is the problem. The bearing that supports the clutch assembly can fail, requiring on the compressor clutch to be changed. This happened to one of my other vehicles.

If the whole compressor needs to go, there are some things to look out for. I just did this whole thing for a friend of mine. Few things that are a must for this job, with a failed compressor:

Dump your condenser. Flat-tube condensers are impossible to flush. They hold onto crud and will continue to release garbage back into the rest of the system for pretty much ever.

Dump your old drier/accumulator, orifice tube, and obviously the compressor as well.

Get 4 cans of the flush chemical, and use all 4 cans. The evaporator core will be hiding the most debris. You will be amazed.
 

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How do you properly charge a 1.75lb system with 12oz cans? It will either be over or under charged.
the 12 OZ cans do not all have exactly 12 OZ................

so you determine the charge by using a ac gauge set . with the gauges connected and your adding refrigerant your watching the high side pressures.

@80deg f air temp and with as I mentioned before how to do this you add until the high side gets to 275 PSI @80deg f.

there is a chart in the shop manual giving these temperature to pressure readings so that it is properly charged .. ac its all about temp/ pressure that's how it works ..

now if you don't want to do it this way with the gauges you set up the vehicle as I stated before with air temp 80 deg f then continue to add until the both fans come on .. that will be ball park correct .. mostly a little low but should cool good.

cleaning the system does take time , cleaner and an air compressor. you repeat until no gray sludge comes out .... my system was contaminated due to the compressor oil leaking out so IT was debris contaminated but I did it 3 years still running .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So the accumulator, the orifice tube and the compressor is the 3 things I need?
 

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All the parts will be Chinese days days and it sucks. I used this compressor its working nice It was made in Mexico (At the time) The Driers are all made in china now and use a odd sized core valve (Not factory sized) so that's another sucky part

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-22135A-Professional-Conditioning-Compressor/dp/B003YN9U1U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

yea flush out everything and put a new condenser in it if the compressor 100% locked up. you need a TON of shop air to blow all the flush solvent out. If I were to do it again I am pricing out a bottle of nitrogen as this humid climate I live + compressed air made some moisture alright! Run a vacuum pump on it for an hr!
 
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