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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
my ancient AC compressor finally locked up this morning, overheated and sheared the belt in half with all the heat. Of course my car is at work, some 14 miles away from home, so I will need to bring my tools up here to work on it.

To lighten the load, can anyone tell me right off what size bolts hold on the AC compressor?

I intend to install this pulley:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...9&fromString=search&isSearchByPartNumber=true,
I have heard that the threads need to be drilled out and possibly use some washers to get the belt to line up?

Thanks in advance for the help :)
 

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I am assuming you have a 94-96 since you are talking about the Camaro AC delete pulley. I can't say about what needs to be done to get things to line up, but there is a "hidden" bolt on the back of the AC compressor that has to be removed that can be a bit of a pain to reach. Alternatively the bracket that bolt goes through can be unbolted from the engine, I think its a 9/16" headed bolt that goes into the engine and either a 10mm or 13mm bolt that goes through the bracket. Also be careful when pulling the lines of the AC compressor as the R134a can cause burns from the coldness of it(similar to the cans of compressed "air" duster which some use R134a or another chemical that works in a similar principle).

Also as No Dubs said drive it home. The water pump on 94-96's is cam driven so its safe to drive the car without fear of overheating due to a lack of circulation of coolant, you just won't have power steering or the alternator charging the system back up so if you do go that route drive it home during the day to minimize battery drain. - Peter
 

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I'd just drive it home, hell of allot easier to take the car to the tools. But I believe the socket in question is a 14mm
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I agree. This is not a parking lot job. The only time I paid a shop to work on my car was for the compressor replacement. Even an experienced tech said it is a PITA. On a lift, it came out from the bottom. From the top, everything in it's way must come out first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
thanks for the help guys.
Yeah I would be 100 times more capable in my own garage but that is not an option. There is no way my battery alone would run the car 14+ miles home, through multiple LONG stop lights ... and who knows what strange parking lot I would get stuck in (or on the side of the road) on the way.

So last night I was able to get the 3 13mm bolts off the front of the compressor pretty easy, as said the hardest bolts to get at are the two 10mm bolts at the back. The bracket nut is basically impossible to hit at any angle. Talking to a mechanic buddy, he suggested I pull the starter, then go through the starter-cavity with extensions and wobble socket to hit the 10mms. I am going to try that today.

The AC delete pulley I purchased is made for our cars and has the correct sized pulley, in case anyone needs one the part number above is correct.
Yes I did have to drill out the threads in the pulley bracket, but that was the easiest part of this job so far :)
Dorman pulley part number: 34209
 

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$50 for a tow. Sometimes you gotta pay the piper. There's no place like home. My insurance charges $8 per year extra for this - well worth it.
 

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The bracket nut is possible, and in fact how I moved the AC compressor on my car when I took the accessory bracket off to degrease it. Mine was a bit of a pain though because some of the threads of the bolt were stripped out and the bolt did not want to come out because of that, be patient and you will be able to get it removed whether you undo the 10mm bolts or the 9/16" bracket bolt. - Peter
 

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Offset ring wrench or (as FSM recommends) a 3/8 drive, deep 9/16" socket will work for that nut. Still a bitch of a job. Long 10mm ring wrench from the bottom will work for the 10mm bolts, I tried every combination of extension and swivel I have but the motor mounts pretty much rule out going at it from above.

I was not able to remove (or reinstall) the compressor with the rear bracket attached to it, not enough clearance to maneuver the compressor so as to clear the stud. If your motor mounts are fresh you may have better luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Well I spent a lot of time on this project, I learned a lot with everyone’s help. Hopefully I can pass on to the next person what I got out of it.

First of all, if your belt breaks when you are on the road (this is for '94 thru '96 only) do not turn the car off. Drive it home immediately! You do not want to do this pulley swap off-site. According to Wikianswers you can get 50+ miles running on a battery alone depending on the car. I ran my battery out trying to get to work and I was left with no other option.

Getting back to the compressor … You do not have to pull the starter. You do not have to pull the alternator. Here is how I got to those pesky 10mms behind the compressor … I removed the rear alternator bracket that bolts in below the pass side cylinder head. With that out of the way I could see both of the 10mm bolts, I was able to hit them with multiple extensions and a 10mm wobble socket from the top. I didn’t even touch the 9/16ths bracket bolt and I ended up leaving the bracket still attached, while the old compressor slid right out of the front.

The Dorman AC delete pulley (p/n: 34209) fit perfect after some slight modifications. I did have to drill out the threads in its bracket. I also used 3 washers per bolt between the bracket and the block.

I put about 50 miles on it so far with a few tire-roasts for good measure :)
 

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Good luck, it took me an hour to get that stupid rear bolt out of mine, on the lift. I was ready to pull the motor, would have been easier.

I put on an a/c delete pulley from a 93 lt1. Lined up perfectly.
 

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I got everything done this past weekend. It was a total pain to be honest, but got it done. I couldn’t imagine doing this in a parking lot. The nut holding the AC lines to the back of the compressor took me quite a while because of my Afterburners, they were kinda in the way, and the way I had bent the AC lines during the Afterburner install made fitting the socket over the nut pretty challenging. The condenser came out relatively easy and once the compressor bolt was off, the lines came out pretty quick too. I did have to cut one of the lines to get it out easier and the lines on the back of the compressor could not be removed through the top, it had to wait for the compressor to be removed and bring them out through the front. This was mostly because of the Afterburners were in the way.

Yes, the way the compressor is mounted on the back side was very difficult. I got the nut that holds the bracket on the block out pretty quickly but could not quite rotate the compressor enough to get it off the stud. I saw the posts about grinding off the stud but I didn’t want to get my dremel in there. So I just used a normal box end wrench to get the lower 10mm bolt off, and simply loosened the top 10mm bolt. This got the bracket able to move enough to get it off the block stud.

Pulley was easy following these directions:

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showpost.php?p=2233508&postcount=9

I picked up a pack of 3/8” washers while I was at AutoZone (they carry the Dorman hardware packages in both galvanized and stainless steel. Note that the SS washers look much thinner than their galvanized counterpart. I purchased the galvanized ones). Used pulley PN 34209, which is the correct pulley size so you can re-use your same belt. Yes, the pulley bracket is threaded, so I drilled it out to 3/8”. Be careful as the drill bit will want to “bite” so don’t go crazy on it. Used 3 washers for each bolt to space the delete pulley forward. I eyeballed it and it looked pretty straight with 3 washers. Following the above post made it quite easy.
 
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