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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Accusump Pre-Oiler and Oil Pressure Saftey

I got a bunch of question on my exhaust thread as well as PM's about my accusump.

So here is some accusump info.

If you have not heard of the accusump
it hold a reserve of filtered and pressurized oil
incase of oil psi drop out the valve opens ans keeps things going for about 45 seconds.

It also works as a pre oiler when you turn the key forward.
theoretically I never have to start the motor with out oil pressure on the main bearings!
http://www.accusump.com/

tech info at
http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

this is the Accusump, nice distro block, electric pressure controller / check valve
and the Gen1 lines that sucked.

Silver accusumps look the best to me but that is the older Gen1
Gen2 Accusumps are all Blue


look close there is a oxy cut on both sides of the bumper
with just a little bit of a cut out the accusump just slides right in.


here it is fully installed
you can see it thru the holes I cut in the bumper to help offset the weight of the unit.
I hate having clutter in the engine bay.
This is out of the way and clean.

once the bumper cover goes on...
it just dissapears.
I almost need a electric sender so I can check the accusumps nitrogen pressure...

The PLUMBING
pictured next is these are the gen.2 hoses
Eaton weather head 3000PSI 350F lines
Double braided tripple rubber sleaved hose
with crimped fittings aka not going anywere aka never leaking
the PermaCool 4 port spin on adapter take a PH8A aka Napa 1515 aka Mobil1 M1-301
IMHO the nicest and most available filter on the planet!

Not shown in thes older picture
I moved my oil pressure and oil temp to this location
cause the new headers were all up in the sender port in the block

the 4 port permacool base feeds my in out to the filter with a fat 1/2 NPT ports
in / out from the accusump and send to cooler that returns to the engine
and a spare port for gauge senders!
It's cheap and made in AMERICA!
Perma-Cool 1791 - Perma-Cool Remote Oil Filter Brackets
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The question was PM'ed.

only thing Im really scared of is making my own hoses, Did the hoses/lines come pre fabricated with the kit? Or would I need to go in and make all my hoses/lines?? Im not even too sure I need it, but it'd be a little extra assurance.
I had the hoses made at the eaton / weather head store.
AKA some NAPA stores
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Marke...redirect=www.eaton.com/hydraulics/weatherhead

more info on NAPA / Weatherhead
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/ct_141388.pdf


I take basic measurements
like
the accusump is 23" from the filter base

then I buy a redundantly large 36" section of hose
and NAPA crimp the straight 1/2 NPT fitting to the accusump
and purchase the gustimate 45degree 1/2" I need to get into the base
but don not have them crimp that 45 fitting

I test fit the 36" hose with straight 1/2 NPT
cut it my self whith a cut off wheel
wasting some of the hose
blow it clean with and air gun
then
push the fit into place on the hose and connect it all up

The Eaton hose is not very flexable
Clocking is very important here
SS mark the black hose with silver sharpie
the silver fitting with black sharpie

take it all appart and have NAPA crimp it on the sharpie marks
 

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this is really neat. what was your total when you finished? my car sitts weeks at a time. this would eliminate my dry starts. i also have a astro van when it sits over night the 1st start i get a laud tapping if i dont let it warm up for a good 2 min. then its good the rest of the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
this is really neat. what was your total when you finished? my car sitts weeks at a time. this would eliminate my dry starts. i also have a astro van when it sits over night the 1st start i get a laud tapping if i dont let it warm up for a good 2 min. then its good the rest of the day.
been a while.

The billet base seemed expensive.

i see new kits pretty cheap all the time.

Canton lists there retail prices on the site.

the napa hose is like $7 a foot $4 a crimp.
the ends are pricey but so is earls.
 

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very nice write up. i had one of these on my old race motor mainly for start up. money well spent
 

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very nice write up. i had one of these on my old race motor mainly for start up. money well spent
And now for your present engines you use what?
I almost need a electric sender so I can check the accusumps nitrogen pressure...
:confused: Nitrogen?


I agree with Tad that pressured pre-oiling is beneficial. I'm just not convinced it needs to be accomplished with the accusump. While 'pro' (the hoses) in appearance, I also see the crimped hi-pressure hose as major overkill, otherwise cooler installs would need them as well.
Pre-pressurizing with 30-50# of oil pressure is more than adequate.

BTW, under light (non-power cruise) loads a running SBC engine can be adequately lubed with less than 5# of oil pressure. That from experience!

An engine builder, that used to be a part of a network of sources used by GM to test Chevy experimental HD components, once told me you can oil the SBC with an oil can. Though it was a tongue-in-cheek remark, he knew about that which he spoke of.
 

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And now for your present engines you use what?:confused:
the 160,000 mile motor in my wagon isn't worth messin with. if/when i finish this forged 383 i plan on puttin one on the wagon.
 

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An engine builder, that used to be a part of a network of sources used by GM to test Chevy experimental HD components, once told me you can oil the SBC with an oil can. Though it was a tongue-in-cheek remark, he knew about that which he spoke of.
i've always heard 10psi of oil pressure per 1000rpm.
 

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i've always heard 10psi of oil pressure per 1000rpm.
Hi-

I believe you misunderstood my post. I am familiar with the commonly accepted (though not necessarily accurate) rule for oil pressure for safe engine operation. Though I was digressing a bit, I was referring to how easy it is to oil the SBC adequately.

BTW, the above established rule as interpreted by the masses is taken a bit out of contenxt or at least needs a bit of an amendment. 10# per 1000 up to ~45-50# at max RPM is plenty. Any more than that is more 'twist' on the pump driveshaft than necessary. The need for hi-volume pumps (another story for another time/thread) and its unnecessary additional torque in the SBC is flawed as well. Just more (and marginally successful) marketing hype.
 
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