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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled the engine from my '95 RMW wagon so I thought I'd take the time to replace my confirmed to be leaking compressor. It was a new unit that was installed by the seller just before I bought the car and the system seemed to work fine other than needing a can of 134 after the last 2 winters. After pulling the hoses apart I noticed the orifice tube was pretty clogged up. I'd have to say the shop that replaced the compressor either never replaced it or never cleaned out the system very well or at all. Not to mention they never bolted on the rear support bracket for the compressor which it seems may have kept the compressor from leaking in the first place.

So I've pulled all the hoses and the condenser and I'm goingto clean them. I'll also clean the evaporator while it is in the firewall. The new compressor comes pre-charged with 3 oz. of PAG 46 oil. The system needs atotal of 8 oz. and I have a bottle of the oil so I need to add 5 oz. Here's thequestion. Where do I add the oil?

I know when you remove a particular part from the system thefactory manual recommends a particular amount to replace it so is that what I should do? Divide the 5 oz. up per the factory recommendation or is there acentral location I can add it to? Also what hole would I add it to the receiver/dryer?

More Information for FOUR SEASONS 33107

Or would I be better off just buying some of the PAG 46 oil that is added to a small amount of R134 and just add it to the system after I've evacuated it and while it is being charged? I'll probably need a couple of cans of that PAG 46/R134 mix. If I add the oil before hand out of the bottlewhen I'm applying a vacuum later it won't be sucked out will it?

I have a new orifice tube and receiver/dryer waiting to go in once everything is cleaned.
 

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Couple oz in condenser an accumulator will work. An rest in compressor. It will circulate when compressor runs anyway.
 

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Amazon.com: FJC 2732 Hand Turn Oil and Dye Injector: Automotive If the system is closed up you can use one of these. I have one. It winds up dumping into the drier anyway.

Last job I put about 4-5 OZ in the compressor, dumped the rest in the drier. Its quiet! Any opening in the drier would be fine for oil.

be sure to change the High side valve, you need a special 8 sided socket for its removal. They always leak replace with a new ACD valve Pag 150 Oil is correct.

Mineral R-12 oil works nice on all the O rings. Just the O rings.

The newer GM stuff used pag 46, they mostly use Denso compressors.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Right on the PAG 46. I bought an "upgraded" compressor from Rock Auto. I'm not sure what manufacturer makes it but they recommend PAG 46 oil. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=815772&cc=1022184&jsn=430&jsn=430

Good call on the high side valve. I didn't even know it was replaceable without changing the line. I was able to remove it with a regular adjustable wrench. This info pretty much confirms that the oil will circulate where it has to so I added a few oz. to the receiver and condenser. The system is cleaned and the engine is just about ready to start. Now all I need is some warmer weather to vacuum and charge the system.
 

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Whats up TwoFast!!

I too am servicing my A/C system after my Condenser got pierced by some debris flying in on the Interstate. My question to you is during my repair and replacement of the Condenser, I was shipped 2 defective Condensers by which time Winter rolled around and I decided to wait until it warmed back up to finish the Job. With that being said, the lines from my Condenser to the Evaporator/Compressor have been open and I know they have probably gotten some dust and dirt inside from driving as this is my daily driver. Can you share with my your cleaning technique as to how you cleaned the Evap while still in the Firewall??? That is what I am most interested in. Also, would you recommend any special cleaning for the line that goes to the Compressor? I originally cut the fingertips off of latex gloves and had them over these lines but at some point they must have blown off from driving and I didnt notice. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Glad to see you got everything cleaned and buttoned up. Good luck getting her charged up, as soon as I can get the New condenser in and get the system all cleaned out, I will be charging my baby up as well!

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for long delay in replying. Hopefully I can still help. Since I was doing engine work my condenser was out and its' lines were off so that was easy. Make sure the orifice valve is out and probably replace it(cheap). I left both lines to the evaporator connected and then just did multiple flushes back and forth. I used compressed air to flush everything out, back and forth. Then I flushed again. More compressed air. I placed a large deep pan in front of whichever hose I was flushing to catch the liquid. The evaporator was the only thing that actually made the liquid blacker so something was in there. It probably was left over from the previous replacement, since my compressor wasn't actually bad, just leaking, as was the clogged orifice valve. The other stuff flushed pretty clean.


This is the flush I used and it seems pretty aggressive. I saved the liquid that was flushed into the collection pan. I used it to clean some pretty grimy engine parts and it worked like parts cleaner. I would say you need 2 cans to do a whole system if it is noticeably dirty.


Interdynamics Professional-Grade Aerosol Power Clean and Flush (17 oz.) CA-1: Advance Auto Parts


As I said I had my compressor lines off and that is what I would do. I wouldn't flush anything through the compressor if it is new. It would have really been best if it was never opened up until ready to be hooked up to a closed system. The compressor should have stated how much oil was already in it from the manufacturer and then you add the appropriate amount of oil to the system as I was instructed. My new compressor came pre-charged with 3 oz. of oil so I added another 5 oz. to the rest of the system as the others recommended.


Since your system has been open you definitely need a new receiver/dryer and they are fairly cheap.


As far as the missing rear bracket goes from what I read without it allows the rear half of the compressor to twist compared to the front half causing the seam around the middle to leak and that is where mine was leaking. That rear bracket is a rear pain to get to and I can really see why the previous repair guys left it out but that really cost me some money. Of course the clogged up orifice valve wasn't helping that they left behind either.


Right now it is all charged up and working great.
 
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