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4000lbs airstream. That like a 26 footer? I know our 31 footer weighed more than that.

Check that the front sway bar is hooked up. how many miles are on the shocks. and what kind of trailer hook-up are you using? Weight distrubution with a separate anti-sway bar, or the weight distobution bars that has the sway control buil into the bars? Also, if the rear air shocks are not pumping up, and you have weight over the rear like that, it will want to sway.
 

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Excess Sway When Towing

We added an adjustable friction (simple clamp mechanism) type anti-sway device to calm down our 3500 lb. Coleman pop-up. The sway bar uses a socket type mount on the hitch and on the trailer; welding required. It totally eliminated sway on our tow package equipped wagon. It was a handful before at anything over 55 MPH. They are sold at most RV centers.

FWIW, I added 1000 lb. Airlifts to the rear springs to be able to set the rear ride height. The stock springs and air shocks couldn't handle a full passenger load and the camper tongue load. They are set up so each bag can be inflated independently. I also added a second trans oil cooler; the trans oil temp was running around 200 F at highway speeds on 85 F days. The cooler dropped the temp about 20 F (using Amsoil synthetic trans fluid). I added a trans oil gauge and a tach (A pillar mounted using aftermarket Impala SS trim panel); the tach is handy in the mountains when using lower gears.


Best Regards,
Gregg
 

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The airlift 1000's do wonders. Can't even tell the thing is on there... with the full tongue load, and the airlifts at the max of 35psi. It has rear FE2 Fleetwood springs int he back.(Tow package springs). I wish I would have taken the thing around with the trailer on there. Never got a chance to, we sold it later that month.

 

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We had a Distubution setup similar to this. It was great for controling the sway, and you could turn sharper than with the separate sway attachment. But ours was a much older setup(like this one), and the way it was designed, it could be a ROYAL PAIN, to get the bars off. they would get caught in the loop that the chain hooks to. This system in the pic is WAY out of adjustment. the cup on the bar should be resting in the saddle.



They have bars designed now, that work the same way, but are much easier to un-hook, like this one.

 

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This is the friction Anti-sway setup Gep was talking about. We ended up removing the Cam/cup anti-sway off the bars/trailer, and used this. Worked pretty good, but you could max out, or jam the unit when attempting to park, so it needs to be removed for that.


 

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This is what I have for my 26 foot travel trailer and it controls the sway MUCH better than the friction sway I started out with. I would highly recommend it. It does cost more than the friction bar but it is much better. It does need to be set up properly which isn't that hard, just follow the instructions.

I would highly recommend you find a way to weigh your set-up to see if your weight distribution is set-up correctly. I found my trailer had a much higher tounge load than I had guessed. The trailer ended up much heavier than I guessed as well.

I guessed my trailer was 4500-5000 lbs and assumed my tounge weight probably fell within the normal 10-15% range which would make it a max of 750 lbs. I weighed everything and found my trailer fully loaded was 5550 lbs and my tounge weight was 970 lbs (17.4%). I've tried re-arranging my load in the trailer and will weigh it again. If I can't get my tounge load down to less than 800 lbs I'll need to upgrade my bars to 1000 or 1200 lb weight distribution bars, they are currently rated for 800 lbs. The other thing I found was my rear axle was loaded to 3900 lbs. I think it is only rated for approx. 3300 lbs. Just the weight that was on my rear axle with only 5 of us in the car and a couple of bikes put us close enough to the rear axle limit I figure many of us overload it much of the time.

At a minimum you need a friction sway control but there are better options. Another thing that will cause sway is if your tounge weight is too light. A light tounge will cause the trailer to want to sway back and forth. I've never experienced that because my tounge weight is so high (you want to be 13-15%) but I was mostly affected by wind or air pressure from other vehicles. High winds will still push me around a little but passing vehicles and semi's don't bother me. On the interstate with vehicles passing you going the same direction are the issue, not 2 lane roads with opposing traffic.

I've concluded after a lot of research and experience over the last 2 seasons towing my trailer than if set-up perfectly our wagons can tow ok but are far from ideal. The real killer is the huge rear overhang. It makes overloading the rear axle that much more likely and difficult for the weight distribution to overcome it. The rear overhang being so large also makes it more difficult for the vehicle to control the sway/motion of the trailer. It gives the trailer a lot of leverage on the wagon. A shorter rear overhang is most desirable for towing. I've added Bilstein shocks, hotchkis sway bars, Air Lift bags, the Reese dual cam sway control, 245/60R17 XL tires rated for 2200+ lbs each and I'm still not completely satisfied. I plan to continue towing with it for the next several years until my budget allows a better tow vehicle but I look forward to an upgrade. It does work pretty well but cross winds are probably my biggest problem at this point.

Tires are very important for controlling sway. If I pump mine up to their max of 50psi they stiffen up quite a bit and that helps with sway as well. Using LT tires instead of P tires is also an improvement. Be careful of aftermarket rims, mine are actually rated for less than my tires. You have one huge advantage in that you are pulling an airstream. They should be less affected by wind due to the rounded profile. I think if you get a good sway control and get everything set-up correctly you'll be in pretty good shape.

I've also added a much larger trans. cooler with a fan and a pan gauge. My only heat issue this summer was on some mountain grades the engine would run up to 230 degrees if it was hot outside or I was going too slow. I was at Letchworth State Park and it got hot while I crept up the hill after coming in the north entrance. At highway speeds it is normally fine but driving from Jersey City into Pennsylvania it got pretty hot going down the interstate (230+) because it was 90 degrees outside. I'm thinking of bypassing the transfluid so it doesn't run through the engine radiator in the summer at least. That would give me some extra radiator capacity since I won't be putting trans. heat into it. My trans cooler is so big I think it will probably be fine on its own. That mod. is just a thought at this point. Pulling around Michigan is not an issue at all.

Here is a picture of what I tow.
 

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If you set up your trailer properly with the load distributing hitch, you should not have the sway problem if you include a sway control. One thing you should look into, especially if you intend to do a lot of towing, is the "Equalizer" hitch. It incorporates both the load distributing and the sway into the whole design. Also trailer loading is by far the most important consideration when it comes to sway. Keep at least 10% on the hitch. I prefer 12-24%.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/

I have this set-up and can't be more pleased. Best system I have used, and it works with the factory air-shocks. Another system, if you can afford it, is the Hensley system. This is the Cadillac of hitches and I have seen your trailer being towed with such insane vehicles as an A4 Audi. Would not be possible except for the Hensley.

http://www.hensleymfg.com/

Last time I checked, it was over $3,500.00 but it definitely is on my "must have" list.

This is my rig and so far am really pleased with the way it handles. Hope the diesel makes it even better, at least as far as the fuel consumption.



Don't need no damn truck to tow a trailer :D

Bill
 

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Convert2diesel is correct that the Equilizer hitch is also a good one. Both the Equilizer and the Reese Dual Cam have built in sway control and both seem to have a lot of happy customers. I've yet to run into somebody that has tried both so I have no idea if one is better than the other. I already had most of the parts I needed to make the Dual Cam work so that is what I bought. If starting from scratch and you didn't already have any hitch components then I'd be tempted to try the Equilizer. I never hear of people having set-up issues with the Equilizer but it isn't uncommon for the Dual Cam to be set up incorrectly which leads to poor performance or broken parts.

The Hensley and the ProPride hitches are based on identical designs in theory but are applied slightly differently. The ProPride is the newest and designed by Hensley (the original inventor) to compete with the original design he sold to another company years ago. Either are great hitches and the competition has brought the prices down some but they are still astronomical compared to other options. Worth it if you have the money however. Of course they weigh more and can add to overloading issues if you already have that problem.

http://www.propridehitch.com/

What type of weight distribution hitch are you currently using? Do you have a picture?
 

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a lot of the seen devices here are not for sale where i live (or not legal) so i'm trying the LCA and UCA swap to make the rear more firm. our trailer is just 3200 lbs. Got the biggest transcooler possible, rerouted the trans oil lines away from the engine and replaced them with armored oil resitant rubber hoses.
 

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FYI, that 31' airstream normally was pulled with a 95 Lincoln Town car, with the dual cam bars. It did surprisingly well, for being such a soft suspension car. That lil 4.6 sure got a work out. With these cars being so much stiffer in the suspension, i see the dual cam setup working fantastic.
 

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My only heat issue this summer was on some mountain grades the engine would run up to 230 degrees if it was hot outside or I was going too slow.
Remove that goofy Mechanical primary fan, and wire up the primary electric. My car ran cooler when I removed the mechanical fan, and left the new electric fan un pluged. The electrics move ALOT of air.
 

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Sorry about going off topic I while ago someone posted a name of a very good electric brake module/control before the site crashed.I have a 97 Coleman Fleetwood Sunridge pop up that I am repairing over the winter.
 

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Remove that goofy Mechanical primary fan, and wire up the primary electric. My car ran cooler when I removed the mechanical fan, and left the new electric fan un pluged. The electrics move ALOT of air.
I agree with this but of course both fans should be wired up. After removal of my mech fan, my temps have stayed the same and I do a lot of HOT temp driving. I would be more concerned about trans cooling - a bigger, better cooler, deep pan, and a trans temp gauge would be advised.
 

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Sorry about going off topic I while ago someone posted a name of a very good electric brake module/control before the site crashed.I have a 97 Coleman Fleetwood Sunridge pop up that I am repairing over the winter.
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BC~90185.htm

This is the controller I have and it works great. It is very popular with folks at the Trailer Life RV forum. It is one of the better controllers especially considering the price. You might be able to find a better one but it will cost much more. Definitely avoid time delay models, they aren't worth having.
 

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http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BC~90185.htm

This is the controller I have and it works great. It is very popular with folks at the Trailer Life RV forum. It is one of the better controllers especially considering the price. You might be able to find a better one but it will cost much more. Definitely avoid time delay models, they aren't worth having.
X2. Mine works like a champ.

Bill
 

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I agree with this but of course both fans should be wired up. After removal of my mech fan, my temps have stayed the same and I do a lot of HOT temp driving. I would be more concerned about trans cooling - a bigger, better cooler, deep pan, and a trans temp gauge would be advised.
If electric fans are better, then why did they use the mechanical fan on the tow pack cars? With the mechanical fans the power ratings are even less, I assume because of the power required to move the fan? I think a tow pack car is only 250 horspower versus 260? It has been recommended to try a heavy duty fan clutch as well. Perhaps my fan clutch is not quite what it once was?

I have a huge trans cooler with a fan. The biggest one B&M makes with an integrated fan. It seems to work great.
 

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I really donno why they used the Mechanical fan on them. When my car would idle with the mechanical fan, I could feel the air behind it. But on my other car, as soon as the primary electric kicked on, it was blowing air all over the place.

The nice thing about the electrics, is you get full fan speed as soon as it kicks on. The 2ndary electric is actually a larger power motor, than on the non-tow pack cars, which no doubt helps. My thinking behind the mechanical fan, and why GM used it, is more reliable. No fuse to blow, or motor to fail. But really, I don't know.
 

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What gearing are your using? I also pull a 26ft TT at 6500# with my 9c1. 3.73's, B&M stacked plate trans cooler, ecm reprgmmd to turn the fans on earlier. I use the weight dist hitch with the friction sway control, airbags and the car pulls like a champ. It does still run warm in the summer. Properly setup it never has swayed and I can cruise with traffic on the turnpikes. I feel a very noticeable difference between the 3.08's and 3.73's and I'm sure that has helped a bunch.
I am towing an airstream (4 thousand pounds) with my '96 RMW with the stock tow package. It sways a lot and doesn't seem to pull with ease.
 
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