Chevy Impala SS Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,808 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a good write up/instructions for removing the AIR pump/accessories and the EGR system on a 96 Impala? Or maybe direct me to a link on the devilnet.

Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
The PCM needs to be programmed(removal of AIR & EGR) first before the physical removal of the AIR or EGR.

pcmforless.com for the programming.

You could look in the for sale section for EGR delete plates.
 

·
Registered
1996 BBB
Joined
·
2,576 Posts
I'm going by memory here so it may be a little rough....

EGR Delete: Pretty easy. Just remove the two bolts from the EGR on the back of the manifold, take the EGR valve off. Remove the EGR tube that runs from the back of the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold and yank it out. You now have three open holes (two in the manifold, one in the exhaust manifold or header). Buy a set of block off plates. They normally come with paper gaskets. Take a thin coat of copper RTV and coat the gasket on either side, then bolt the block off plates onto the back of the manifold and onto your exhaust manifold or header. Allow adequate time for the RTV to dry before starting (RTV recommends a 24 hour cure time, hardly anybody ever waits that long but try to get as close to that as you can).

Now, attached to the EGR valve was a vacuum harness that had one end going to a solenoid and the other end going to the intake manifold. Unbolt the solenoid from the rear drivers side of the intake manifold, unplug the electrical connector and the vacuum hose and take it out of the car. Remove the vacuum hose from the intake manifold. Now just find a small vacuum plug from your local parts store and plug the vacuum fitting on the drivers side of the intake manifold where the EGR went.

GET A PCM TUNE, hook your new PCM up and you're done.


AIR delete: My memory is a bit more fuzzy on this one but take your time and pay attention to what you're doing and you'll be fine. It's VERY easy. First, there are a few bolts holding a bracket in on the drivers side front of the engine block. Remove those bolts and the disconnect wires/pipe from the AIR unit and pull it out. Then you need to remove the AIR pipe. Disconnect it from the exhaust manifolds / headers. IIRC there is a 10mm bolt in a little bracket holding it down to the frame as well. Once everything is detached and it is flopping in the wind, you have two choices. You can A) work to get it out in one piece which may or may not be a PITA or you can B) do what many of us have done and just cut it in half with a sawzall and pull it out in two pieces.

Now that the pipe is out, you must find the appropriate caps for the exhaust manifold. Since I had borla shorties, my car used a pipe cap fitting but I believe the factory manifolds use a flared cap fitting? If flared, just screw it on and your done. If it's just a standard pipe thread, use some copper RTV around the threads and then screw it on.

for a 96 you will need a PCM tune.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,085 Posts
If you have a 95 does it still need to be reprogrammed?
For the AIR pump no, cuz the CEL won't go on.
For the EGR i would have to check, my guess is yes as the PCM will assume those gases are being recirculated and re-burned.
-ALF out...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
For the AIR pump no, cuz the CEL won't go on.
For the EGR i would have to check, my guess is yes as the PCM will assume those gases are being recirculated and re-burned.
-ALF out...
thanks for the quick reply. I just got the BBK headers and was going to remove the air pump and pipes. I figured I'd check and see if its worth deleting the EGR. I have read the mixed reviews on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,085 Posts
If you have easy access get the F-body EGR, it performs better from what i have read, that what i would do if me. You can get the bock off plate if you want to remove it.

But why ditch it, it's bad for the environment and keeps motor efficient.
-ALF out...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
If you have easy access get the F-body EGR, it performs better from what i have read, that what i would do if me. You can get the bock off plate if you want to remove it.

But why ditch it, it's bad for the environment and keeps motor efficient.
-ALF out...
I am probably going to consider swapping with the F body EGR then. I am planning to daily drive this as my commuter. Do you or anyone have a Part Number for the Fbody that would be a diect swap?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,085 Posts
Search button is this crazy invention to find stuff, i tried the one in this forum.... Haaaa


-ALF out....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,877 Posts
F-Body EGR works like a charm in my nearly stock motor. More robust design ,opens slower/shuts faster ,and no more CEL. My free flowing exhaust no longer had the back pressure needed to satisfy the on board diagnosics with stock B-Body EGR in place. If I were to put-put along in traffic for any length of time ,it would trigger a PO400. While I can easily reset it. I prefer it not come on at all ,like now....
 
  • Like
Reactions: Marky Dissod

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,787 Posts
If you have a '95, does it still need to be reprogrammed?
For the AIR pump no, cuz the CEL won't go on.
For the EGR i would have to check, my guess is yes as the PCM will assume those gases are being recirculated and re-burned.
Pretty much yes & yes.

Regarding the AIRpump:
If a '94 or '95 car sets off DTC 48, or noticeably hesitates during heavy or full throttle acceleration, then yes, it needs reprogramming. If there's no hesitation and no code, no reprogramming required.

Regarding the EGR Valve & Solenoid:
If the pcm expects a present & working EGR Valve & Solenoid, then the EGR Valve needs to be present & working.
Otherwise there will be drivability symptoms.

If the pcm does NOT expect a present & working EGR V&S, then the EGR V&S no longer matters either way.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top