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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, i am looking seriously into getting a Air ride suspension!
there is a couple of things i want to clear up beforre i start to purchase.

First off, I have 20x9 inch rims all the way around, this maybe a problem for the front. I havent decide if i am going with the Air ride specialties shockwave, or a kit like the one that is avaliabe from www.airliftcompany.com, my first concern is, i am pretty sure that the non-shockwave kit will let the wheel "Toe-in"(tilt in), which is what i need it to do to clear the wheel well lip. Does anyone know if the shockwave does this?

Also on the non-shockwave kit, i have read that, because of the shock relocator, it impares your turning radius, does anyone know how much?

also, does anyone have any experience doing either one of these kits?
I will be attempting to do it myself, so it would be nice to have some imput!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
You already got my email concerning this, but I'll add that mine does not really camber much when down all the way. It actually has more camber at full lift then full drop. Either way its not a problem with our rims. Not sure about the shockwaves but they SHOULD work the same way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The type of bag won't determine how much negative camber you get when it drops. That is a function of the geometry of the suspension. It's the same whether you have standard bags, ShockWaves, springs, or nothing in there at all.

Toe-in is not the tilting of the wheel in the vertical plane. It's the rotation of the wheel along the vertical axis (the one that goes through the ball joints). A toe-in condition is when the front edges of your tires point together, much like if someone were to walk pigeon toed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It'll drop the same as my wagon. If you want to go like SLMDCSS you'll also need to get dropped spindles. The Shockwaves will put you as low as you can go without modifying the control arms or frame rails (other than the trimming required for actual bag clearance).

What size tires are you running up front, and what is the backspacing?
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
20x9 rim
i believe 5.5" backspacing
255/35/20 kumho tires

exactly the same as what slmdcss is running
also, i thought you werent supposed to use the drop spindles with the shockwave?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just FYI, I know one person who's running the shockwaves on a B-body and has had them break because they aren't meant to work on a car as heavy as our's. Because the shock mounts do all the work of holding up the front end (as opposed to spreading the load over the base of a spring) too much weight is concentrated in too small a location, and the shocks and the A-arm can't take it. I have also heard second hand that others have not had this problem, but if it was me, for what it's worth, I wouldn't spend the money and take that chance.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I (foolishly) had the lower mount of my Shockwaves mounted like a standard shock under the A-Arm in my quest for lowness. As a result, one of the bolts used sheared off causing the holes in the a-arms to rip out and bend. Since fixing that and mounting them the proper way, I've not noticed any problems other than the urathane bushings like to squeek. It wouldn't be difficult to add some thickness to the pocket in the a-arm for reinforcement to prevent cracking from stress.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
dont they bolt up like regular shocks?

how much more cutting is required if i go with the cool ride kit from air ride technologies? and how much will the shock relocation , interfer with turning radius?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The turning radias will be shortened by about the last full turn of the steering wheel before the caliper hits the stop on the lower control arm. You can fix this by adding a spacer to the stop on the lower control arm stop or this can be fixed by cutting the frame and welding in a 3" steel pipe that has been halved so that you can recess the shock in at the top. This is what I have done on some of the cars that I have dropped using the seperate air bag and shock method. I use 2600lb. bags at all four corners along with Edelbrock shocks for a SS on my wagons. They ride nice with no problems. I believe you will have most of your problems with the 20"s up front with the inner fenderwells hitting. I'm running 17"s on both my wagons and I had to modify these fenderwells on both. Have no fear tho, You Can Do It! :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh ya, when you are making your brackets ,try to have 75lb. of air pressure up front and 50lb. in rear at ride heigth. You can change this by adding or subtracting metal above or below air bag mounts. Also double check your shock compressed and extended lengths. If you do use the SS shocks. The rear are about 1 3/4" longer extended. This will help with the wheel removal on the skirted wagons. Good Luck ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
how do u guys think i should do the suspension?
dont forget , it is my daily driver, and i still have to deal with inspections and stuff, so the less cutting the better!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Check with your state to see what they do/don't allow for suspension modifications. Both routes require a lot of cutting, so there's no way you'll get around that.

What exactly are you looking to do with bags? Do you want to lay frame or just have the ability to adjust your ride height? I'm going to assume you aren't interested in hopping at all.

If you do the regular bag style setup, I'd definately do what LODADEO suggested and recess the shock a bit. Since your car is a daily driver you'll want to lose as little turning radius as possible (especially when in parking lots).
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by threeimpalas:
I (foolishly) had the lower mount of my Shockwaves mounted like a standard shock under the A-Arm in my quest for lowness. As a result, one of the bolts used sheared off causing the holes in the a-arms to rip out and bend. Since fixing that and mounting them the proper way, I've not noticed any problems other than the urathane bushings like to squeek. It wouldn't be difficult to add some thickness to the pocket in the a-arm for reinforcement to prevent cracking from stress.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


dont the shockwaves bolt up just like normal shocks, or is there modifications to bolt them up?

no i dont plan on hopping, i just want it low when i park.
and how come they say not to use drop spindles with the shockwaves
?
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The do mount like a normal shock, just the T-bar mounts on top of the control arm instead of underneath.

It's been said by 3rd parties that they don't recommend dropped spindles with the Shockwaves because they don't have enough lift to get you back up to a Ride Tech accepted ride height. I can't confirm or deny that though.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
more then likely, i will be going with the shockwave kit in the front, and the coolride kit in the rear. do u think for ride quality, i really need the hals in the back also?

i can fit a air tank behind my speaker box, i am thinking about a 11 gallon tank with 8 1/2 ports, 2 Viair 450 compressors, 8 3/8 smc valves.

what do u guys think, also any other suggestions?
:cool:
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What does a good bag setup cost usually, and installation. I've always wanted to do this, but don't know the best combo on the setup. Who installed your setups?
 
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