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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got around to installing some Airlift 1000's PN 60786 $72.90 shipped from Summit

The car sits perfect when empty, but any time I put a load in, the rear starts sagging. This is one of those mods I should have done when I got the car.

I put the car up on stands so that the axle was hanging.

The hardest part was installing the heat shields on the exhaust pipe. That was not all that difficult, just a bit of a pain working under the car flat on my back. If I could have put it on a lift, it would have been a cinch. I installed them toward the upper part of the pipe, angled toward the spring and bent the top corner of the shields back to clear the shock.

I uncapped the air bags and stepped on them to get most of the air out and then capped them. They slipped in between the coils without too much difficulty and then I just worked them in until they were enclosed inside the spring. After uncapping, they filled back up with air, needing a little massaging to get them to reinflate. I then slipped the little isolator pad in.

I took the line and cut it at the 1/2 way point, then put a clamp on each one about an inch from the end. I then slipped each line over the barb fitting on each bag. That required a bit of massaging. Then I put the clamp over the barb fitting.

Figuring out where to run the line was the next issue. I decided to zip-tie it to the e-brake cable and then run it up to the top of the heat shield on the gas tank and then routed it over the tank back to the filler neck. I then zip-tied the line to the heat shield leaving slack for it to move with the axle.

I ran the line to the filler neck and zip tied it there.

I have the line ends terminated with the shraeder valves and the system holds air fine, but I have not decided on my exact mounting option yet.

I will either drill some holes for the shraeder valves in the bracket, or I'll get some body washers and use the two existing holes by sandwiching the bracket with the body washers and some rubber gasket.

I lowered the car and then filled them up to 35 PSI as per instructions. This morning they were at 33 which is normal according to the instructions for a new install.

I lowered it to 10 PSI and drove to work. It was way firm. I stopped and dropped it to 5 and it was like the bags were not there.

I'll be hauling a 2000 Lb trailer this weekend so I'll see how it handles that.

FYI, the part numbers for stock Caprice springs are 60755 and for Hotchkis are 60763

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I ordered these and the compressor (p/n Air-25592 $101 from Summit). Soon after I purchased the Hotchkis springs on the GP. Will this setup work with the Hotckis springs?

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A quick search showed that some use them with no problems in the Hotchkis springs, but that PN 60763 is recomended by Airlift.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What can happen if I use the ones I bought?
The compressor is also an automatic I believe. Will this affect the lowered stance once the Hotchkis are in?

Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The compressor is only automatic in that it keeps the minimum 5 PSI to protect the bags. Filling beyond that is manual.

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The factory size airbags won't fit the Hotchkis springs, they're too small in diameter compared to stock springs.

Just FYI,

Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I used the heat sheilds when I originally installed my bags and it didn't take long for the exhaust vibrating to tear the tabs off of the heat sheilds. Now I have 2" header wrap around the pipes that I think works pretty good. I believe I have some left over from my install that you can use.
I mounted the indvidual scrader valves in the two holes behind the liscence plate using fender washers and then some touch-up paint to blend them in.

Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We threw these bags in Tully's SS tonight. Took only about an hour, but then I've installed a set before ;). Tully's car has the Moog CC621 springs, which have specs that are somewhat close (but not the same) to one of the "name brand" springs
....basically progressive, around an inch shorter than stock, slightly stiffer than stock.

Worked like a champ!

Set goes into my SS next week, in preparation for Tulsa.....

Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got mine installed a few weeks ago and so far I like the result ! I paid $78.oo Cnd
and that included $10.oo overnight shipping
direct from AirLift Co!

I guess not everything is more expensive in Canada after all ;)

I drilled some holes at the bottom of the rear bumper metal frame half way between the exhaust and the bumber center on each side.
This is probably one of the safest area to avoid road debrits to hit the air valves.

The first week I ran 25 lb presure but I am down to 11 lb right now. I may go down some more and keep them at 7 or 8 lb. With an empty trunk my rear end could raise almost 6" at 35 lb presure ! This new mod definitely gives a lot of options open for hight as well as comfort !

I too, should have done this a long time ago ! Better late than never though.

Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank's RuSSell, might just take you up on that offer. Think I'll go ahead and do the body washer thing too. You gonna be at the 4'th of July Explosion?

It took me about 1.5 hours, but the extra time was probably spent trying to figure out where to put the shields and lines. If I had just used header wrap it probably would have been about an hour. I'd say it might take someone who's never done an Airlift install at all 2 hours. I had installed a set in my Ciera but never used them because I installed a set of Moog Cargo coils at the same time. They are still there. I told grandma she could haul about a 1000 Lbs in the trunk if she ever needed to.

I kicked them up to 7.5 PSI with an empty car, leveled the car(my front has always sat a litle higher than the rear) and they were perfect for Houston and made the car a little more neutral.

I suppose you could dial in a neutral setup with these at the cost of your ride. Sound like something for AutoX Ed? If I could only adjust the front this way.

While I was at the shop getting my Torsen install inspected, I got a 0-35PSI guage that has a bleeder built in. Makes setting the pressures a cinch.

I just brought them up to 15 and all of my tools, luggage, and me standing on the hitch did not bring it down past stock height. That used to put the rear practically the bump stops.

Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I mounted the shrader valves in the two holes besides the gas filler neck when you flip down the lic plate. Never used the shields and have had no probs except for a warranteed bag. It split but they had one out to me in a day. I haul a trailer so it was neccessary for me to have the bags and run 'em at 26-28# towing. Regular driving is at 11# and mismatched for dragracing. Cheap and easy fix for a saggy rearend.

Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good Post Wayne. It got me going so my airlifts are now installed instead of in the box. Bags were easy but the heat shields are a pain. Me thinks autocrossing may remove them anyway, we'll see. I used two lines and ran them through the frame holes and out to the existing holes by the gas cap. Also got my hidden hitch from JC Whitney installed with the wiring from NAISSO which was plug and play. Its sitting with 35 lbs to see if it leaks. WoW the rear is about 6 inches higher. Now to finish up the trailer.

Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thankSS Wayne!

Now I just ned to get my ar jacked up and put them in
I should've done it when I put my driveshaft in :( I'm planning on runnign the lines over the gas tank, but I don't want to drop the tank yet. I don't have tailpipes, so I could just run the lines under there for a while

Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I installed my bags a few months ago & run about 8# empty & 15 w/ stuff in the trunk & my little trailer. Air valves are mounted on under the tag on ea side of the fuel filler.
I had to drop it back to 5 for the autocross & then 1 less click on the Hals in the back. Way too tail happy w/ the 15 in the bags. I highly recommend them for anyone hauls anything besides themselves in the car. Very good money spent. I would do them much earlier.

Discussion Starter · #19 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>I suppose you could dial in a neutral setup with these at the cost of your ride. Sound like something for AutoX Ed?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


While not ideal from a ride-height perspective (for racing), I plan on using them as another "tool" to get the balance where I want it for racing.

It'll be a helluva lot easier than swapping rear springs at the beginning and end of the "event" like I did at both Detroit in 2001 and St Louis in 2002!

Ride???? Well, my SS rides smoother than my Subaru. Of course, a Corvette with Z51 suspension rides smoother than my Subaru as well :D

Oh yeah : on Tully's car we put the valves behind the license plate. And since I had a leftover set of 4 Impala logocaps.....well, Tully and I will probably be about the only folks with Impala logos BEHIND the plate :D

Discussion Starter · #20 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AutocroSSer:
...well, Tully and I will probably be about the only folks with Impala logos BEHIND the plate :D<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

now that you've mentioned that, you'll see it on lots of other cars :D
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